Please do a search for "Linckia" as this topic comes up often.
Some basics on echinoderms (seastars, sea urchins and sea cucumbers):
- mature tank (over 6 months old)
- pristine water quality (0/0 on ammonia, nitrite and low nitrates...good pH, specific gravity 1.025-1.026)
- generally need long acclimations (via drip method, sometimes 4 or more hours)
- triggers, large wrasses, puffers and other "aggressive" fish are natural predators of many of these animals
Seastars in general:
- Reef safe stars (including Linckia and Fromia) need large mature reef tanks for best success. A blue Linckia, IMO, needs 100g +; orange, burgundy and purple may be OK in 55-100g but need a lot of LR (75+ lbs, IMO). In tanks approximately 29 -55 g with a lot of LR and healthy corals, etc, Linckia multiflora may be suitable. These stars CAN NOT be spot fed in most cases (depends on the individual), and must have access to lots of LR. For best results, only one specimen should be kept as the compete for a limited diet. They DO NOT eat algae and detritus. They need a long acclimation. Death is common in the first month from shock, or 8-12 months from starvation.
- Sand sifter stars starve in most tanks unless they take to spot feeding. I do not recommend them as they eat beneficial critters in a sand bed.
- Non reef safe stars such as chocolate chip, general and red African are not suitable for reef tanks and may consume snails, clams, scallops, corals or any other slow moving invert. They are, however, easy to spot feed making them good additions to some tanks.
- Brittle/serpentstars are generally easy to spot feed and can be in a reef or non reef tank situation. They will normally hide quite a lot as they are nocturnal. The green brittlestar is a known predator. They should be spot fed, and not allowed simply to scavenge. The large bright red brittlestar is a more difficult specimen to keep and should be left to mature tanks with experienced keepers.
