Starting questions!!

cotigostar

cotigostar

Member
I have an empty 55 gallon sitting at home but there's a few people breaking down tanks in my area. I want to get in on it and get some good buys but I'm moving into my own place on July 1st. I'm only moving a 3-4 hour drive away (from South Florida to Orlando) so I don't need anything shipped. I can just drive it up in my dad's truck. I was wondering if it is worthed to get live rock and/or sand and start cycling the tank or is it pretty pointless since I'm moving soon. Any input is very much appreciated!
 
rotarygeek

rotarygeek

Member
Its alot more work, cuz you will probably want to keep your water that is mid cycle. Starting over in your new place will just prolong your cycle. I would wait, but then again im pretty impatient and i might start it and just do the extra work to move it.... its really up to you on how much work you want to do and how long you want to wait for your cycle to finish.
 
ruaround

ruaround

Active Member
if you can get it set up and make the total transfer in 4 to 5 hours you should be okay... i dont see anything wrong with setting it up and not putting live stock into it and then making the move... when you tear it down and set it back up you might get a minor amonia spike... so get it set back up and wait a week then start adding livestock...
just be aware that transporting your tank a long distance does have a recipe for disaster...
 
ruaround

ruaround

Active Member
Originally Posted by RotaryGeek
http:///forum/post/2576203
Its alot more work, cuz you will probably want to keep your water that is mid cycle. Starting over in your new place will just prolong your cycle. I would wait, but then again im pretty impatient and i might start it and just do the extra work to move it.... its really up to you on how much work you want to do and how long you want to wait for your cycle to finish.
the water is not what cycles... its the bacteria and micro organisms that complete the nitrogen cycle...
 
cotigostar

cotigostar

Member

Originally Posted by ruaround
http:///forum/post/2576204
if you can get it set up and make the total transfer in 4 to 5 hours you should be okay... i dont see anything wrong with setting it up and not putting live stock into it and then making the move... when you tear it down and set it back up you might get a minor amonia spike... so get it set back up and wait a week then start adding livestock...
just be aware that transporting your tank a long distance does have a recipe for disaster...
So I should be fine setting it up now and letting it run with live rock/sand? I'm not planning on adding any fish until I move. When i do move it though I'm positive it'll be very heavy lol should I bring my water level down so it's not so heavy?
 
ruaround

ruaround

Active Member
i would be more worried about the move in its entirety... what kind of vehichle... what kind of containers... how long from tear down to set up... is the drive easy highway...
not only that but the temptation to put something in a tank that could possiby become a casualty in the move...
 
mcbdz

mcbdz

Active Member

I would go ahead and get the LR but don't set up the tank. Use some rubbermaid tubs from walmart and cure the rock in them with heater and power heads. You don't really need the other stuff until you are moved and setup. Makes move easier and less chance of breaking tank.
 
cotigostar

cotigostar

Member
Originally Posted by ruaround
http:///forum/post/2576213
i would be more worried about the move in its entirety... what kind of vehichle... what kind of containers... how long from tear down to set up... is the drive easy highway...
not only that but the temptation to put something in a tank that could possiby become a casualty in the move...
My dad has a big heavy truck, its usually a nice smooth ride unless the road doesn't permit. From my parent's house to my new place it's a little under 4 hours so I would take down the tank right before leaving and set up right when I get there. I know not to put anything in the tank. I've had my fair share of casualties due to temptation in my freshwater setups so I have learned my lesson!
 
cotigostar

cotigostar

Member
Originally Posted by mcbdz
http:///forum/post/2576328

I would go ahead and get the LR but don't set up the tank. Use some rubbermaid tubs from walmart and cure the rock in them with heater and power heads. You don't really need the other stuff until you are moved and setup. Makes move easier and less chance of breaking tank.

I have a heater I got from ***** for a 10gallon we tried setting up (unfortunately the power went out and everything died
and then we didn't have money to start it all up again) I think it might be for tanks up to 30 gallons. I don't know how to check though. How would I go about curing the rock? What do I need and how do I know if something goes wrong? I'm very new to this so I want to get a much help so I start off the best way I can. Thanks!!
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Personally, if it were me, and I could get a good buy on it, I'd buy both sand and LR. I would also check on any other equipment like powerheads, skimmers, etc. Getting these things used can save you a ton of money so long as your getting good quality items. As others stated you can set-up the system and let it run for a couple months, or simply place all the LR and the top portion of the sand in rubbermaid containers with saltwater, powerheads, and a heater. If you've got good coralline growth on the LR, your also going to need to set a light above the LR container. The majority of the sand you can simply let dry out and rinse and reuse when you move. Easist method for moving the sand IME is 5 gallon buckets. Empty the tank completely when you go to move it, don't just lower the water level and try to move the tank wholesell; invariably something will shift or fall and fracture the tank.
 
cotigostar

cotigostar

Member
Ok the guy has 200 lbs and he said if I take all 200 he'll give it to me at 1 dollar/lb. Does anyone need some rock that's close by? I'm in Ft.Lauderdale, but I can ship if you pay for it and tell me how lol.
I can just get a regular rubbermaid container right? As far as a heater, I have "Aquatic Gardens Profile Aquarium Heaters" for a 10 gallon. Should I get two for 20 gallon? or is it ok to have 1 for 30 gallons and my 10? (granted I get one of those 40 gallon containers) What kind of lighting do I need? The guy I bought the tank from sold me 3 filters and 3 lights but I don't know what kind of bulbs are in it or anything. I know I'm asking alot I just don't want to mess up. I'm about to go out and just get "Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies" lol
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2576707
Personally, if it were me, and I could get a good buy on it, I'd buy both sand and LR. I would also check on any other equipment like powerheads, skimmers, etc. Getting these things used can save you a ton of money so long as your getting good quality items. As others stated you can set-up the system and let it run for a couple months, or simply place all the LR and the top portion of the sand in rubbermaid containers with saltwater, powerheads, and a heater. If you've got good coralline growth on the LR, your also going to need to set a light above the LR container. The majority of the sand you can simply let dry out and rinse and reuse when you move. Easist method for moving the sand IME is 5 gallon buckets. Empty the tank completely when you go to move it, don't just lower the water level and try to move the tank wholesell; invariably something will shift or fall and fracture the tank.
These were my thoughts on this.
Originally Posted by cotigostar
http:///forum/post/2576854
Ok the guy has 200 lbs and he said if I take all 200 he'll give it to me at 1 dollar/lb. Does anyone need some rock that's close by? I'm in Ft.Lauderdale, but I can ship if you pay for it and tell me how lol.
I can just get a regular rubbermaid container right? As far as a heater, I have "Aquatic Gardens Profile Aquarium Heaters" for a 10 gallon. Should I get two for 20 gallon? or is it ok to have 1 for 30 gallons and my 10? (granted I get one of those 40 gallon containers) What kind of lighting do I need? The guy I bought the tank from sold me 3 filters and 3 lights but I don't know what kind of bulbs are in it or anything. I know I'm asking alot I just don't want to mess up. I'm about to go out and just get "Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies" lol
You do not need special lighting to keep the coraline alive. If you want it to spread more then kitty corner whichever light is bright over the tub. Use whichever heaters will keep the rock at 78-82 degrees. Get two power heads to keep the water circulating until you move.
 
emilaya101

emilaya101

Member
Originally Posted by cotigostar
http:///forum/post/2576854
Ok the guy has 200 lbs and he said if I take all 200 he'll give it to me at 1 dollar/lb. Does anyone need some rock that's close by? I'm in Ft.Lauderdale, but I can ship if you pay for it and tell me how lol.
lol
I'll take some, if you'll ship it to texas
I'll send you a pm
 
cotigostar

cotigostar

Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2577441
These were my thoughts on this.
You do not need special lighting to keep the coraline alive. If you want it to spread more then kitty corner whichever light is bright over the tub. Use whichever heaters will keep the rock at 78-82 degrees. Get two power heads to keep the water circulating until you move.
I was just looking on ----...are these any good?
Maxi-jet 1200 Submersible Pump/Powerhead
This pump is rated at 295 gph. It comes with all the attachment necessary to work in your aquarium. Great for reef, saltwater and freshwater tanks. I personally use them on my reef tanks.
The Maxi-Jet delivers optimal water circulation, adjustable aeration and reliable and silent performance at all times. The powerhead is ideal for powering undergravel filters or generating internal water movement. The compact, efficient Maxi-Jet design makes it suitable for freshwater or marine aquariums or terrariums and versatile enough for a multitude of internal and external applications from creating gentle waterfall effects to powering undergravel filters. Its powerful flow maximizes oxygenation throughout the gravel bed of undergravel filters to provide a viable biological filtration site for the growth and proliferation of BIO-Spira bacteria. The Maxi-Jet features a silent, adjustable venturi-action air filter, a screened intake tube adapter and an intake foam cartridge grid support, a fully rotational outflow, a sealed impeller output, and a triple-suction mounting bracket with an adjustable hook and cable guide.
Instructions: Water flow decreases when the Venturi feature is used. If no air is desired or if you prefer to use the Maxi-Jet with the Pre-filter Grid, do not install the Air Tube. Cover the Venturi opening with the enclosed clear-plastic Venturi Plug.
 
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