Sump Build

gill again68

Active Member
+1 2Quills
You can beat this topic to death on what we all say but as pointed out do what you want to do! It can be done.
I think its the extruded plexi but I am not sure. this is what Melve uses. He calls it Acrylite FF.
Quote from Melves Reef "
What kind of acrylic and glue do you use, and where do you buy them?

¼” Acrylite FF for most applications. The glue is a product called Weld-On, that literally melts the two pieces of acrylic into one piece, forming a very strong bond. Weld-On #3 is fast drying (less than 60 seconds), #4 is slower (less than 5 minutes), and #16 is for patching.
#3 and #4 need a “needle applicator bottle,” and #16 needs a nozzle for better control (found at most hobby shops). I use a glass turkey baster to suck up #3 or #4 (from the can) when filling the applicator bottle.
These products can be found at Regal Plastics in Texas. Check the Yellow Pages for “plastics” to find a vendor in your area."
Quote from Melves Reef "
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by yannifish
http:///forum/post/3288655
What about using pressure locking baffles?
I just need acrylic...
Acrylic and some EPDM outdoor weather stripping. Is an alternative from using silicone. That could work to. Again I think it just comes down to whatever you really want to do. All three methods have been proven to be do-able.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Extruded material should not be used for sump building or tank building IMO, and reputable tank builders will tell you the same thing....for baffles would be ok IMHO, but again your cuts have to allow the expansion you will see and get.....Take a piece of 1/4" material and cover your sump....you will see over time the warpage, but it is also absorbing water even sitting on top......WeldOn 4 is the choice solvent because of evaporation rate........16 is messy, sloppy, and skins over and shrinkage is an issue with 16.....Correct 16 is used for gap filling, but applying 16 over and already welded joint, will cause a weakening of the joint, so proper joint prep is key.......
 

yannifish

Active Member
Thank you very much everyone. I found a site online that will cut to size, and I can get two square feet 1/4" for $25, and I don't need anywhere near that much. I'll look into glass too, but acrylic just seems easier, once I get the stuff.
I'm not sure whether I will use silicon or pressure lock, we'll see.
Do I need a couple feet on the baffle that comes down (water flows under) to hold it up?
I just need to order my skimmer, so I know what my water height needs to be. I'll keep you updated on my progress, as I'm sure I'll have question.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Good deal. The acrylic is easier to work, there's no doubt about that.
The "feet"...you don't need if you are going to silicone...You can pretty much just set something underneath to make the space untill the silicone dries and then remove it. I've seen alot of people use cd cases to do it. But pretty much anything will work. If you or going to do the pressure lock then I say yes. I don't know if you've seen this site but I'll pm you a link of how it's done.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3288828
Good deal. The acrylic is easier to work, there's no doubt about that.
The "feet"...you don't need if you are going to silicone...You can pretty much just set something underneath to make the space untill the silicone dries and then remove it. I've seen alot of people use cd cases to do it. But pretty much anything will work. If you or going to do the pressure lock then I say yes. I don't know if you've seen this site but I'll pm you a link of how it's done.
Yes, that is the site I got the idea from.
It seems to work well. Might be nice if I every get a bigger pump or something. It might work better with the glass and acrylic, thats just why I am leaning towards it. Easy to replace if something happens to it too.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Okay, last night I finally ordered the supplies I need, lol. I had some distractions from this hobby for the last couple months, and this plan got pushed to the back of the things to do list.
I ordered the skimmer as well as all the PVC parts, except the actual pipe and cement. What kind of cement do I use? Will normal Ace PVC cement work?
I also have the acrylic for the baffles, ten gallon tank, and EPDM weather stripping to pressure fit the baffles. I'm not going to install the fuge right away, but will plumb in the fittings so I have that option later.
So, I'm good to go! I'll try to keep you updated as I start putting everything together.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yes, standard PVC cement is just fine...be sure to get primer too and use it to ensure a proper bond on your plumbing parts. We'll need pictures don't forget.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Okay. Half my order shipped today, but not the skimmer.

I can't make baffles until the skimmer is here. At least not the one that comes from the bottom and controls water height.
Did have a minor problem with the overflow today. I hadn't noticed that excess nori had been getting sucked into the sponge in the intake, but since last Saturday (when I last rinsed the sponge) enough had built up to slow the water flow enough that the pump was pushing more water than was heading to the filter. Luckily, the top off reservoir was almost empty, so it didn't flood. Close call though. I'll have to keep an eye on that from now on.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/378674/sump-build/20#post_3304832
Clean that prefilter sponge at least every other day or shut down the pumps during feeding.
Okay, I'll start cleaning it more often. Currently I clean it weekly.
I'm thinking about placing a piece of acrylic in the intake of the overflow to force the overflow to skim water from the surface, instead of taking water from about 3" below the surface. Do you think this will have a huge impact on the amount of water flowing through the overflow?
My skimmer is now on backorder.

I should have it in about two weeks though.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
No shouldn't impact, actually better skimming from the surface. By not regularly cleaning the sponge your running water continually through decaying matter.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Yes, I'll rinse it every other day.
How much room should I leave below the surface for water to enter the overflow, 1 inch?
Should I remove some of the sponge? Right now the water has to flow through about 3/4 inches of sponge, with the mod it would be about 3. How big of an impact will this have on water flow?
 

yannifish

Active Member
It's just a prefilter. How close to to surface should the acrylic piece come? About one inch?
The way this overflow is, there is the u tube, then grating from the surface down about three inches, to prevent anything from being sucked into the overflow. Because of how far down the grates go, water enters the overflow from about three inches below the surface. What I want to do is place a piece of acrylic covering the grating except at the surface so it skims water from the surface. The sponge is between the grating and the overflow.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Do you have a pic of what were talking about? Raising or lowering the skimming area will affect the amount of water/flow to the u tube. To much flow the u tube might not keep up; starve the u tube it could break syphon.
 

yannifish

Active Member
No, I'm sorry I don't.
I think I'll just leave it, just to be on the safe side. Thanks though.
 
I drilled the ten gallon tank today, to accommodate the bulkhead for the auto top off. Everything went fine. Not quite as clean as I had hoped, and on flake about .25 mm thick chipped off the inner all, but it will work. Bulkhead fits well.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
What type of overflow do you have that drains water 3" below the surface...I was under the impression that they basically all skimmed from the surface?
 
I've heard alot of people don't even bother using the pre-filter sponge.
 
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