Sump Desing.

chuckcac · Mar 2, 2007

Originally Posted by costa13
1.the tank would be reefready or drilled. I don't does this changes anything.
2.I do not know the exact amount of feet yet.(Waiting for my dad to begin building the stand) also I would use the flexible pvc on the return so I would not have to use 90s.
3.does this mean I should either make supplly pvc bigger or get a smaller mag pump?
Also , great idea!

Let me know how it works.
I really appreciate all you help. As you can see I modeled my sump after yours LOL.

LOL... i love to see that i've helped somebody!

1. no, nothing changes. just find out what the overflow is rated for.
2. cool - you helping dad out? post pics!
3. basically yes, but find out what the head is first... tha'll give you a better idea of how much the pump out-put differs from the overflow... unfortunatly, if its reef ready and its already drilled... you cant change how much the overflow will put out... that is limited by the size of the hole.
so, in summary... find out the feet o head... and the overflow out-put and we'll take it from there

costa13 · Mar 2, 2007

Originally Posted by chuckcac
LOL... i love to see that i've helped somebody!

1. no, nothing changes. just find out what the overflow is rated for.
2. cool - you helping dad out? post pics!
3. basically yes, but find out what the head is first... tha'll give you a better idea of how much the pump out-put differs from the overflow... unfortunatly, if its reef ready and its already drilled... you cant change how much the overflow will put out... that is limited by the size of the hole.
so, in summary... find out the feet o head... and the overflow out-put and we'll take it from there

Will do

Might be a day or two. Will post it once I figure all this out, and then like you said take it from there.

costa13 · Mar 4, 2007

Okay so I calculated I am going to have about 5ft of head. The tank we are purchasing is not drilled, but we will have it drilled so we get to choose the size of the hole. As you can see I changed my pump to a mag 7. Thought it would work better

Also I changed my sump design. I will now be using a 20T I have laying around. The reasons being:
1. More sump volume
2. Less chance of sand getting into the pump
3. Helps prevent macroalgea from entering my tank.
4. Just have this tank laying around
Heres the new desing. Which one do you guys think is better? This one or the first one?

vicegrip · Mar 4, 2007

I like the idea of having the fuge separate if you have the room. I'm thinking then the sump can be flow thru. Maybe connect other end of supply tee to outflow of fuge and make sump flow thru. If that makes sence. Just an idea. :thinking:

vicegrip · Mar 4, 2007

5' of head, idk, I would go with the Mag 9.5. Your plan has a ball valve on the return anyway. :happyfish

costa13 · Mar 4, 2007

Originally Posted by vicegrip
5' of head, idk, I would go with the Mag 9.5. Your plan has a ball valve on the return anyway. :happyfish
Yea I probably should go with the mag950.

costa13 · Mar 4, 2007

costa13 · Mar 4, 2007

would i need to put a pump on the drain from the refeguim, or should I just use gravity?

sign guy · Mar 4, 2007

gravity should be fine.

sign guy · Mar 4, 2007

Originally Posted by larryndana
whats the differences with the return in the middle or on side, pros - cons?
well I know its just my opionon but with a straight througe design the chato gets all of the water to flow through it giving more flow
also a straight through you are not dumping water on top of the chato pushing it in to the sand you are comming up and through it giving it a tummbe efect. I dont like to see water flow restricted from chato as it needs all it can get. I know that a dule design will work but not as good as a straight through

costa13 · Mar 5, 2007

Originally Posted by sign guy
gravity should be fine.
okay just wanted to make sure I did not need to add a pump.

costa13 · Mar 6, 2007

Hey chuckac what do you think of the mag950 with about 5' of head? Also if I did t my return like you did would I want it to flow into the fuge or the empty chamber?

larryndana · Mar 6, 2007

Originally Posted by sign guy
well I know its just my opionon but with a straight througe design the chato gets all of the water to flow through it giving more flow
also a straight through you are not dumping water on top of the chato pushing it in to the sand you are comming up and through it giving it a tummbe efect. I dont like to see water flow restricted from chato as it needs all it can get. I know that a dule design will work but not as good as a straight through
Thanks, i got it.
costa13's post cleared it up.

chuckcac · Mar 6, 2007

Originally Posted by costa13
Hey chuckac what do you think of the mag950 with about 5' of head? Also if I did t my return like you did would I want it to flow into the fuge or the empty chamber?
the mag 9.5 with 5' of head will push about 750gph...
its your choice, really... i did mine that way because i wanted to increase the flow in my fuge...
if you can choose you hole size... were you planning a 1" or 1.1/4" for the supply? :thinking:

vicegrip · Mar 7, 2007

Originally Posted by chuckcac
the mag 9.5 with 5' of head will push about 750gph...
its your choice, really... i did mine that way because i wanted to increase the flow in my fuge...
if you can choose you hole size... were you planning a 1" or 1.1/4" for the supply? :thinking:
Don't forget every 90 in the line adds 1' of head.

costa13 · Mar 7, 2007

Originally Posted by chuckcac
the mag 9.5 with 5' of head will push about 750gph...
its your choice, really... i did mine that way because i wanted to increase the flow in my fuge...
if you can choose you hole size... were you planning a 1" or 1.1/4" for the supply? :thinking:
okay the mag 9.5 should work good

I think I will do it also because it should help increase the pumps life.

I am not sure sure that is why I was asking you. What do you think

costa13 · Mar 7, 2007

Originally Posted by vicegrip
Don't forget every 90 in the line adds 1' of head.
yes I know, that is why I was planning on using the flexible pvc on the return to help reduce the friction

chuckcac · Mar 7, 2007

Originally Posted by costa13
okay the mag 9.5 should work good

I think I will do it also because it should help increase the pumps life.

I am not sure sure that is why I was asking you. What do you think

well, the 1.1/4" gives you 910gph and the 1" is 600 gph...
you want the overflow to be rated slightly higher than the return, so i would say the 1.1/4" pipe.
this way, your pump wont 'out-run' the supply pipe's capacity...
also, i noticed that the supply pipe from the fuge is placed in the middle of the side wall.... you will want the water to come from the height of the water line you intend to maintain....
water always tries to find the 'lowest point'... so the water in the fuge will constantly try to drain to the level that the hole is drilled... especially because it's gravity driven
does that make sense? :notsure:
think about it in terms of baffle heights.... the water fills to the height of the baffle, then spills into the next area... but it never gets 'higher' than the baffle itself (unless you loose power)....
if you lost power to the return pump... all the water from the fuge would drain down to the lowest point (the opening) and overflow the sump...

costa13 · Mar 8, 2007

Okay so I got what you were saying about the water in the fuge will constantly try to drain to the level that the hole is drilled. So I changed that and also increased the size of the supply. Now how does it look? I think this might be the final design

costa13 · Mar 8, 2007

Do you think I will have enough room for backwash if power shuts off? I just want to make sure it will not overflow.

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