Sump/Refugium for 29g
- Thread starter ppm411
- Start date
bawood
Member
Personally I would have at least one auxillary powerhead for more chaotic flow or have different outputs from your return pump. I was looking at a mag 5 or 7 as a return from floor mounted sump on a 25 gallon. By using a mag 5 with 4 ft of head you'll get around 250-300gph depending on plumbing. That's a good quantity from your sump. One or two PH or a wave making PH would compliment that nicely.
I don't have plans for a good sump, I have a 25 gallon and my stand is not very long which makes sump sizing a pain.
I think the first question is: what do you want in your sump?
A skimmer? what size?
A fuge? With macro? LR? a DSB?
Consider what you want before worrying too much about design. With a 20 long you could make most things work on a small scale.
I don't have plans for a good sump, I have a 25 gallon and my stand is not very long which makes sump sizing a pain.
I think the first question is: what do you want in your sump?
A skimmer? what size?
A fuge? With macro? LR? a DSB?
Consider what you want before worrying too much about design. With a 20 long you could make most things work on a small scale.
hurt
Active Member
Yep a DIY special, as you can see by the sloppyness when I siliconed in the baffles. But a fuge isn't supposed to look pretty, just perform it's job. It works great, I've had it for about 1.5 years nows, and since installing, both my trates, phosphates are at 0. And yes I run two HOB skimmers. I have and aqua C remora in the first chamber, and also have a prizm-but I took it down for the pic. But It hangs on the front right to take water from the first spacing between baffles and drops it down into fuge. This is mainly to break the surface tension in the actual fuge chamber.
But you can design it to your specs. If you have a large in sump skimmer, make the chamber on the right larger so it can fit.
But you can design it to your specs. If you have a large in sump skimmer, make the chamber on the right larger so it can fit.
ppm411
Member
Thanks for the quick responses.
I have an extra PH in my tank for more flow but splitting the return might be a good idea to eliminate that eye sore.
I'm definitely want to make it a sump/fuge. I have a Seaclone 100 on my DT that I would like to move down to the sumpa long with the heater. I definitely want LS/LR and macro.
I'm currently running a fluval404 that I might consider moving down as well but that might be a discussion for a different thread.
HURT - What is the purpose of the ball valve off your return pump?
I have an extra PH in my tank for more flow but splitting the return might be a good idea to eliminate that eye sore.
I'm definitely want to make it a sump/fuge. I have a Seaclone 100 on my DT that I would like to move down to the sumpa long with the heater. I definitely want LS/LR and macro.
I'm currently running a fluval404 that I might consider moving down as well but that might be a discussion for a different thread.
HURT - What is the purpose of the ball valve off your return pump?
hurt
Active Member
I have an extra PH in my tank for more flow but splitting the return might be a good idea to eliminate that eye sore.
I put a SCWD on my return line, and couldn't be happier. I'd look into one. Creates a lot of random flow.
HURT - What is the purpose of the ball valve off your return pump?
It is a very easy way to contol the GPH that actually run through your fuge. Also great when doing water changes. The more I close this valve, more water will go through my fuge. The more I open this valve, the less H20 will go through my fuge. By doing this and not having and in-line ball valve, you don't put added back presure on your return pump. So it should last longer, and put less heat into your system. Here's a couple of pics of it.
I put a SCWD on my return line, and couldn't be happier. I'd look into one. Creates a lot of random flow.
HURT - What is the purpose of the ball valve off your return pump?
It is a very easy way to contol the GPH that actually run through your fuge. Also great when doing water changes. The more I close this valve, more water will go through my fuge. The more I open this valve, the less H20 will go through my fuge. By doing this and not having and in-line ball valve, you don't put added back presure on your return pump. So it should last longer, and put less heat into your system. Here's a couple of pics of it.
ppm411
Member
Originally Posted by Hurt
It is a very easy way to contol the GPH that actually run through your fuge. Also great when doing water changes. The more I close this valve, more water will go through my fuge. The more I open this valve, the less H20 will go through my fuge. By doing this and not having and in-line ball valve, you don't put added back presure on your return pump. So it should last longer, and put less heat into your system. Here's a couple of pics of it.
I'm curious about the procedure when doing a water change when a sump is involved. Do you open the ball valve all the way, then change the water in the sump or in the DT?
hurt
Active Member
I'm curious about the procedure when doing a water change when a sump is involved. Do you open the ball valve all the way, then change the water in the sump or in the DT?
I take water from my DT when I do changes. The thing is as you begin to take water from your DT, once the water gets below your overflow intake, you sump/fuge will keep pumping. If you don't turn this pump off or down it will dry out. Having the ball valve just makes it at lot easier to control. So basically I slowly open the ball valve all the way, once the H2O level in my DT goes below my overflow intakes.
I take water from my DT when I do changes. The thing is as you begin to take water from your DT, once the water gets below your overflow intake, you sump/fuge will keep pumping. If you don't turn this pump off or down it will dry out. Having the ball valve just makes it at lot easier to control. So basically I slowly open the ball valve all the way, once the H2O level in my DT goes below my overflow intakes.
hurt
Active Member
Thanks for all of the great info. My overflow box should be rated higher than my return pump correct? I was thinking of a 600gph box and a pump rated at little lower than that.
No problem, that's why these boards are here. But on the overflow and pump-NO. The exact opposite. (as long as your sump/fuge is below your DT) My return pump is rated at 1050gph at 0 feet. My overflow is rated at 1200 gph, but I only use one of the two U-tubes. Each 1in U-tube will do 600 gph. So in all reality my overflow is only a 600gph overflow with just the 1 U-tube. But at 4 feet the gph drops on my return pump to roughly 750. Combine this and also the 45's, 90's, and the SCWD, and I am guessing the "actual" gph going through this is just below 600gph. Again the ball valve on the return line makes it much easier to "match" the actual flow through the pump, with your overflow capabilities.
No problem, that's why these boards are here. But on the overflow and pump-NO. The exact opposite. (as long as your sump/fuge is below your DT) My return pump is rated at 1050gph at 0 feet. My overflow is rated at 1200 gph, but I only use one of the two U-tubes. Each 1in U-tube will do 600 gph. So in all reality my overflow is only a 600gph overflow with just the 1 U-tube. But at 4 feet the gph drops on my return pump to roughly 750. Combine this and also the 45's, 90's, and the SCWD, and I am guessing the "actual" gph going through this is just below 600gph. Again the ball valve on the return line makes it much easier to "match" the actual flow through the pump, with your overflow capabilities.
rwood
New Member
New to the lingo..whats a DL and I have had saltwater fish tanks with hang on filters and skimmers but i want to build a sump so you dont see any filters on top, for the flow into the tank do you just let gravity do the job??or somthing else, anyone wanna show me some designs and explain plzzz thanks. you can email if you want rwood858@hotmail.com