SupernooB

hexagon30

Member
Hi All

I Just bought a 30 Gallon Hex tall.
So confused coming from freshwater. Anyway what would be the best setup to start with?
For a medium temper to aggressive fish tank with LR then possibly corals within 6 months or so?
I have a FLUVAL 300 Canister filtration
3 damsels cycling
15lbs of LR
1/2 inch Live Sand
15" 20 watt flourescent (have to check)
LFS recommended not using the charcoal that came with the fluval? I think the LFS I bought the stuff from sucks. Any recommendation on a heater, test kit, what temp and water parameters should I aim for? I also made the mistake of using tap water, I did not find this site until it's too late.
:help:
 

jdm_ae86

Member
my tips..
-dont add too much fish, a 30 hex tall doesnt have much surface area, limiting the amount of surface oxygen/gas exchange..id say about 4 small fish, thats it..
-the light you got is fine for now, but when you do start getting corals, upgrade to metal halide (best option)..something like a 150 watt double ended setup will be sufficient..
-add more lr..
-go with more sand(3 1/2+) for a DSB..or go with a plenum(do a search on that)..for nitrate reduction..
-get GOOD test kits..some examples, Lamotte, Salifert, Seachem..
-params..
temp-anywhere from 76-84..dont let it fluctuate like this too fast though, get a heater or chiller, depending on your climate..
salinity-1.024-1.027
calcium-400-450
alk-dkh, 10-14
magnesium-1300 ppm
ammonia and nitrites should be undetectable after about a week..
nitrates-.10 and less.
phosphates-as low as possible!!
idk if i forgot anything..but hth..
 

dreeves

Active Member
The very first thing you should do, prior to additions of any kind in your new tank is thoroughly research the hobby as it seems you are doing by asking questions here...read and read.
A 30 gallon tank of any style is small for the saltwater environment. The animals you chose to keep should be few...most aggressive specimens will require a larger environment.
As for your testing, etc...at this early stage of the hobby for you, you should routinely check Amonia, Nitrite (while cycling), Nitrate, and the ph. These are the 4 basic elements which will decide the fate of your tank...the items listed above for testing will come later on and will be on an as needed basis...right now though and for the majority of fish available, the Nitrogen cycle is the concern.
Your freshwater experiences will lend a hand to a certain degree...many things which do not tend to affect freshwater fish (i.e..sudden temp or quick ph change) can and usually do create problems up to and often times include the death of your animals and possibly your entire tank...a key to the marine environment is stability...this goes primarily for the salinity, temp and the ph.
Research each and every specimen you have a desire to keep...look for requirements in habitat, compatibility with other animals, feeding and so on...many new hobbyist create more problems for themselves and the animals they attempt to keep be failure to research the species in its entirety...
Good luck and enjoy the hobby...
 

hexagon30

Member
Man you guys are good! Any others, I'm getting a test kit and a heater today.
I'll research the lighting soon. Any others, like power heads? or that small a tank doesnt require it? If I have the fluval do I need an extra separate pump and power head?
Got a lot of reading to do.
Thanks All.
 

arkey.d

Member
Your going to need 2 PowerHeads in the tank for water movement. I like the Visatherm Deluxe submersible heaters, myself.
Definetly get yourself a good book, like The Conciensious Marine Aquariest by Fenner.
 

arkey.d

Member
Place them in the aquarium one on each side of the tank. One higher than the other for water circulation.
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
Place them in the aquarium one on each side of the tank. One higher than the other for water circulation.

Thanks man!
How long does it take for the water to be crystal clear? I set the tank up saturday night and the water still has some traces of white not really cloudy but you can see the super fine white particles looking through the light.
 

hexagon30

Member
I Just looked and my lighting setup is only a 15" 15 watt flourescent. Is that good enough for starting a hex 30 tall FOWLR+LS?
I will eventually reef it.
Thanks all.
 
I

inf

Guest
just an idea but the tiny white dots your seeing might be air bubbles moving around in the water I have noticed that if I let my power head suck air and blow it with the water I get that effect
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
For Fish Only -LiveRock and LiveSand, you bet.

Thanks Arky! How long before coraline starts growing, is there a trick to get different colors. Someone told me calcium, anybody recommend a brand in particular?
 

arkey.d

Member
It will grow in time as your Tank Matures. I believe the correct calcium levels are 400 to 450. I wouldn't add calcium unless your below those levels...
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
It will grow in time as your Tank Matures. I believe the correct calcium levels are 400 to 450. I wouldn't add calcium unless your below those levels...

IC, ok I guess I really have to be patient hahaha not one of my best traits.
Thanks.
 

arkey.d

Member
You need it for saltwater! I have a 55 gal that has been up two months and I'm just now starting to add my cleanup crew. It's best to take things slow with saltwater to keep a stable system...
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
You need it for saltwater! I have a 55 gal that has been up two months and I'm just now starting to add my cleanup crew. It's best to take things slow with saltwater to keep a stable system...

Yap, hey man are water changes necessary while cycling? I've read conflicting writeups, one said leave it and the other said 15% every 3 days, until fully cycled.
 

arkey.d

Member
No water changes until the cycle is complete, then a 10-15% water change. If you did them while the cycle was going on, it would never complete.
 
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