SupernooB

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
No water changes until the cycle is complete, then a 10-15% water change. If you did them while the cycle was going on, it would never complete.

Man that makes more sense, cool. Now how would I know when the cycle is complete besides water testing. I appreciate everyones help.
My 3 damsels are super stressed one looks like its about to die.
 

arkey.d

Member
You should be testing your water every other day, that way you'll know when the Ammonia and Nitrite spike and then go to zero.
When cycling with fish, the high Ammonia and Nitrite levels burn there gills. So that's why they probably look stressed and yes they may not survive the cycle.
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by arkey.d
You should be testing your water every other day, that way you'll know when the Ammonia and Nitrite spike and then go to zero.
When cycling with fish, the high Ammonia and Nitrite levels burn there gills. So that's why they probably look stressed and yes they may not survive the cycle.

One died this morning, if If I knew about this forum and the shrimp method I would have done that, poor fish.
Thanks for the tips
 

dreeves

Active Member
Take your dead fish out...and you can do a water change...with a 35...about a 5 gallon or so will help the other fish you have left without adversely affecting the cycle too bad...
The white cloudiness in your tank is a bacterial bloom, normal and it will subside.
While cycling...you need to test for the Nitrites at first...once they start going up, then begin testing for Nitrates...the Amonia is a given...so testing it at this stage is a waste of test...once your Nitrates start soaring....the Nitrites and Amonia should be settling down...this is when to start testing for the Amonia...
Coralline Algae will grow when spores are introduced into the tank via live rock, or starter plugs...Coralline will not thrive in a nasty tank, ie...poorly maintained...without a reef environment...calcium supplementation is not needed...the coralline will still grow...just not as fast.
 

dreeves

Active Member
Oh and your 15watt light is fine for fish only...make sure the proper temp rated bulbs are being used though.
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by dreeves
Take your dead fish out...and you can do a water change...with a 35...about a 5 gallon or so will help the other fish you have left without adversely affecting the cycle too bad...
The white cloudiness in your tank is a bacterial bloom, normal and it will subside.
While cycling...you need to test for the Nitrites at first...once they start going up, then begin testing for Nitrates...the Amonia is a given...so testing it at this stage is a waste of test...once your Nitrates start soaring....the Nitrites and Amonia should be settling down...this is when to start testing for the Amonia...
Coralline Algae will grow when spores are introduced into the tank via live rock, or starter plugs...Coralline will not thrive in a nasty tank, ie...poorly maintained...without a reef environment...calcium supplementation is not needed...the coralline will still grow...just not as fast.

Cool, got it. Thanks
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by dreeves
Oh and your 15watt light is fine for fish only...make sure the proper temp rated bulbs are being used though.

So I should add better lighting for Live rock and Live sand? I will eventually do reef, im concerned that the top is too narrow for anything better than the retrofit it has now, any suggestions?
Thanks
 

wax32

Active Member
The rock and sand don't need any special lighting. Corals will need better lighting if you decide to get into them.
When people say "fish only" they just mean no coral. Most people use LR and LS, even in "fish only" tanks. Usually they really mean they have the kind of tank you are wanting to set up: FOWLR- Fish Only, With Live Rock
 

hexagon30

Member

Originally posted by wax32
The rock and sand don't need any special lighting. Corals will need better lighting if you decide to get into them.
When people say "fish only" they just mean no coral. Most people use LR and LS, even in "fish only" tanks. Usually they really mean they have the kind of tank you are wanting to set up: FOWLR- Fish Only, With Live Rock

IC I'm such a noob aahah. Thanks. Any good reef lighting suggestions for a 30 hex tall, the big cherry wood hood is really limiting my options.
 
Top