T5 vs. VHO vs. Metal Halides?

kellenr

kellenr

Member
I was going to upgrade my lighting from PC's to Metal Halide but I'm reconsidering due to my canopy space. I'd pretty much need to build a new canopy again. The bulb would sit probably only 3"-4" above the surface and wouldn't have any protection, seems very risky to me, also even if water didn't hit it, its still so close it would probably heat my tank tremendously even with my fans on.
So I've maybe consider using T5's or VHO's instead since I can use my newly made canopy and have much less heat. I was wondering what the pros/cons are of all of them and which one is the best to get, as far as wattage & par? I'd also like to know what exactly I should use such as how many bulbs & what wattage?
This tank is a 29 gallon 'show' tank which means its a little taller than most. Specs are 30"long x 12"wide x 18"tall. My sandbed is about 3"-4" deep and the inner top of my canopy is about 6" above the tank rim. Thanks!
 
texasmetal

texasmetal

Active Member
I love my T-5's. They don't have the shimmer that MH's have, but they have significantly more power than PC's or VHO's, and they are very economical.
The wattage/amount of bulbs you need depends on what you're going to keep in the tank. I was keeping a clam under mine (4-54 watt T-5's in a 75) for several months until I had to move it to another tank due to predation.
 
kellenr

kellenr

Member
Right now I'm just keeping LPS, leathers, shrooms and other softies. I plan on a getting just a few pieces of SPS placed high in the tank and a clam. I can only fit a 24" setup though, so I may be limited with wattage. Thats why I need someone with some knowledge of T5 wattage and its PAR. 24" bulbs aren't available in 54w, they're more like 24w. Help please!
 
texasmetal

texasmetal

Active Member
As long as you keep the light-intensive stuff high in the tank I think you'll do fine with what you want. Just get a quality fixture that includes 4 bulbs, individual reflectors for each bulb. Not real sure on the PAR, sorry.
 
mr_x

mr_x

Active Member
i don't think t-5's have more power than VHO's. i just think they are more efficient. VHO(t-12) do put off some heat though.
 
stanlalee

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2696916
i don't think t-5's have more power than VHO's. i just think they are more efficient. VHO(t-12) do put off some heat though.
yep a h.o. flourescent is a h.o. flourescent for the most part, T5's only work better than pc and vho because they can be reflected efficiently.
there is no good reason to use VHO over T5 in this instance (or any instance when you arent only using them for actinics). You will have to use 4 75w VHO bulbs (300 watts) vs 4 24w T5s (96 watts) which is the main reason they will run much cooler and last longer. having a 30" tank you are going to have to stagger either one (both only come in 24" with 36" being the next size up). I dont know the difference in PAR between the two but what does it matter, there is little to nothing you cant keep with 4 T5 HO or 300 watts of VHO over a 12"x18" aquarium. If you only want to keep stuff your pc kept you could use 2 bulbs of either instead. VHO retro kits cost as much or more than T5's as do the bulbs that will be replaced about twice as much.
 
iyachtuxivm

iyachtuxivm

Member
I would go T5 retros, you could put more in the canopy especially if you remote mount the ballists. Retros usually come with individual reflectors too. As with everyone else I dont have specs on par. I have done research on this and have seen a list multiple times as to the amount of usable light in order of bulb type. PC is lowest, VHO is next, T5, then MH. Now obviosly if you increase watts you can make this list totally wrong these where close to same wattage. I can tell you pcs took about 3X as many watts to come close to any of the others. I had a t5 fixture and loved it but it didnt produce the shimmer of mh so thats the real reason I switched. I think the t5 covered more "ground" though. Good luck hope that helps!
 
rushprop

rushprop

Member
Why couldnt you just keep your PC's as actinics and get a small MH? That is what i have on my biocube and the MH cant be more than 2-3 inches off the water, inside that very closed hood system. It doesnt really effect my temp as much as i thought it was going to in the beggining.
 
stanlalee

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by rushprop
http:///forum/post/2697074
Why couldnt you just keep your PC's as actinics and get a small MH? That is what i have on my biocube and the MH cant be more than 2-3 inches off the water, inside that very closed hood system. It doesnt really effect my temp as much as i thought it was going to in the beggining.

because his tank is 30" long. A biocube is 20" long, easily covered by a single MH below recommended height specs. In general one MH is designed to cover an area of 24" at 8" above the water. To get full coverage he'll be in the two MH bulb territory. Even the best reflectors have to be raised higher to get the extended coverage (usually 3ft at 12" or so for the Lumanarcs and Lumanmax reflectors out there). If he wanted to do MH two 150w HQI would fit nicely and IF ventilated/fan cooled well wouldn't pose two much of a heat problem ( I have two 150w over 30 gallons. my tank is 6" longer but heating 30g of water is heating 30g of water).
 
wangotango

wangotango

Active Member
Bulb life: You can go 12-18 months with the T5 without worries vs the 8-10 or so with halides.
PAR: Too many variables to think about. Use a spec ballast, IC or Aquactinics reflectors and ATI bulbs and you're going to get a hell of a lot more PAR than a single reflector with current bulbs and no cooling system. Same thing with halides; there's too many bulb/ballast/reflector combos to compare.
There aren't too many decent 30" units out there, but the Current Sundial might be worth a look, just swap out the bulbs. I don't have the numbers, but I'd feel confident saying that the Sundial would have at least equal if not slightly greater PAR than a typical 150w halide setup.
-Justin
 
rushprop

rushprop

Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2697372
because his tank is 30" long. A biocube is 20" long, easily covered by a single MH below recommended height specs. In general one MH is designed to cover an area of 24" at 8" above the water. To get full coverage he'll be in the two MH bulb territory. Even the best reflectors have to be raised higher to get the extended coverage (usually 3ft at 12" or so for the Lumanarcs and Lumanmax reflectors out there). If he wanted to do MH two 150w HQI would fit nicely and IF ventilated/fan cooled well wouldn't pose two much of a heat problem ( I have two 150w over 30 gallons. my tank is 6" longer but heating 30g of water is heating 30g of water).
too shay.
Guess I really didnt think about the extra length. That is why I love this site.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top