Tang Ich

whotzler

whotzler

New Member
SWF.com said 40 gal minimum tank size at time of purchase, but the more I read the more realize that my 40 gal tank is probably to small or will be shortly for my new 2" tang, and I will have to look into relocation options. So with that out of the way, I have had the tang for 3 weeks now and have noticed a dozen or so white spots and that it was rubbing up on the rocks(more than usual, goofy fish lol) classic signs of Ich. Being a new fish to the tank I'm sure it was stress induced. Sure wish I would have used a QT, but I don't have one...yet. I have read so many different options for treatment from just feeding it better, I read broccoli is great, I will try that, to removing all fish and treat them and remove all rock, coral and treat tank. Is Ich something that can be managed? Or should I remove all fish for the Ich lifecycle? Maybe dipping fish in fresh water for several min.? So many opinions out there!!! My main focus is on the coral, but I would hate to loose any fish. How do I keep this from spreading to the others (see below)?

40 gallon corner tank. (1 clown, 3 Damsels, 1 Tang, 12 coral frags, BTA,)
40 lbs. Live rock
40 lbs. Live sand
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates <5
Phosphates <.25
Salinity 35 SG 1.025
PH 8.2
KH 11
Temp 78
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
Remove fish and treat w hypo or cooper. Ich will never be managed, it needs to be wiped out.
A 40 is too small long term yes.I use a 29 qt and feel bad for tangs in it lol
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
I agree with Jay but remove all fish and leave tank fishless for 72 days so the ich dies out. Currently ***** is having their dollar a gallon sale so you can get a QT pretty cheap. You don't need much for it just a heater and hang on filter a few pieces of PVC pipe for hiding places.
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
The store reference seems to say 75 gal tank, which is still too low for a tang, but it can be done. For some reason the details say 30 gal of water--not sure what that means but it is certainly confusing. 120 min would be the best for yellow tangs.

Ich is a parasite and feeding it better is not really going to get rid of the parasite. It may keep it in check for awhile, but the minute the fish gets stressed, the disease will rear with the vengeance. Hyposalinity is your best option. You can treat in the tank but you will need to remove live rock. That would be easier then removing fish since LR can be held in a rubbermaid (dedicated) with just a powerhead and heater (if room temp gets cold).

https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/c/index.php/articles/content/100
 
whotzler

whotzler

New Member
beth said:
The store reference seems to say 75 gal tank, which is still too low for a tang, but it can be done. For some reason the details say 30 gal of water--not sure what that means but it is certainly confusing. 120 min would be the best for yellow tangs.

Ich is a parasite and feeding it better is not really going to get rid of the parasite. It may keep it in check for awhile, but the minute the fish gets stressed, the disease will rear with the vengeance. Hyposalinity is your best option. You can treat in the tank but you will need to remove live rock. That would be easier then removing fish since LR can be held in a rubbermaid (dedicated) with just a powerhead and heater (if room temp gets cold).

https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/c/index.php/articles/content/100
Click to expand...
This is where I got the 40 gallons from.

Blue Hippo Tang
Paracanthurus hepatus
DescriptionPriceQuantityStatus
Blue Hippo Tang
1.5-2.5 inches$49.99

Blue Hippo Tang
3-4 inches$74.99

Blue Hippo Tang
1.5 - 2.5 inches$59.99

Tank Stats
Size : 1.5-2.5 inches
Care Level : Moderate
Temperament : Peaceful
Reef Safe : Yes
Diet : Pellet, Flake, Greens
Origin : Indian Ocean
Acclimation Time : 4+ hours
Coral Safe : Yes
Invertebrate Safe : Yes
Minimum Tank Size : 40 gallons

 
whotzler

whotzler

New Member
So I found myself a 20 gal. tank to use as a Hospital tank and future QT. As of now I plan on following the direction in the link provided by Beth. Thanks Beth!!. A question before I do. What is the benefit of hyposalinity vs Copper treatment? Hyposalinity seems like a lot of work and I figure there must be a reason that is considered to be the better method. I do have coral in display tank and not to sure I would want to put fish back in it that have been treated with copper. Also, how long does the display need to be without fish? One says 72 days and another 4 weeks. I have also read pH buffers do not work well with low salinity water. Is there any truth to that?
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
That 40 gallon recommendation is nuts. I think my 125 is too small for a hippo.

I think hypo is easier on the fish
They have a better appetite
If needed you can use prime or other ammonia detoxifiers during hypo. That is not an option for copper. This is especially helpful when your QT is not cycled.
I have found hypo to be more effective than copper.
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
I believe the accepted time frame is 72 days although I have also seen 76. The goal is to get all the ich parasites to die off, this will happen if there is no fish host. The 72 days comes from a paper that documented a strain of ich that was viable up to 72 days. I have not personally read the paper. I treat the fish for 4 weeks. With hypo I take 3 or 4 days to lower the salinity and after the 4 weeks another 2 weeks to bring it up again.
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
whotzler said:
So I found myself a 20 gal. tank to use as a Hospital tank and future QT. As of now I plan on following the direction in the link provided by Beth. Thanks Beth!!. A question before I do. What is the benefit of hyposalinity vs Copper treatment? Hyposalinity seems like a lot of work and I figure there must be a reason that is considered to be the better method. I do have coral in display tank and not to sure I would want to put fish back in it that have been treated with copper. Also, how long does the display need to be without fish? One says 72 days and another 4 weeks. I have also read pH buffers do not work well with low salinity water. Is there any truth to that?
Click to expand...
Ph buffers do help w hypo to a point. Ph drops significantly w hypo. Ph isn't terribly important during hypo but you don't want it too low.
Hypo is preferred bc most fish can handle it. Angles, puffers, ect can have a bad reaction w copper. That said adding a fish treat w copper is safe w a reef tank. I think you would be surprised how many lfs treat tanks w copper as a precaution. If u ever noticed inverts in separate tanks or in diff sumps then most fish, thats often why
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Hypo is safer, healthier for the fish. Copper is a toxin.

Also, if you are just setting up a QT then copper is not really an option since you need to have a well-established tank that can survive the copper treatment.
 
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