tank construction

captn bob

Member
:help: well I ordered the glass for the tank I,m gonna try &assemble ,an am hopingsomeone out there that has done this before could give me some helpful advise on putting it together,I,m startting out with asmall size[approx 6gal.] so the peices should be easy to handle,any sugggestions or ideas? thanks. :help: :help:
 

phixer

Active Member
Piece of cake, just take your time and go slow. Lots of info out there, use 100% silicone only. Dont forget to consider bracing for the top even though its only six gallons. Use box jigs to ensure panels are 90 degrees to each other. For professional quality seams use masking tape and keep your finger wet when smoothing sealant. Do not move or adjust panels after sealant is applied.
Lay front on flat surface, glue sides, let dry, flip over, glue front and sides to back, let dry. Now that you have an open rectangle or square, you are ready to glue the bottom. After its completed, lightly sand edges of glass for safety. Now your ready for a hexagon.

Best Regards
 

captn bob

Member
thanks for the reply.it sounds pretty basic,but first time out of the box makes one nervous again thanks for the info. :thinking:
 

27mtaylor

Member
This might be a dumb question but.... Is it just the silicone that holds the tank together or is there an actual glue used between the sheets of glass?
 

turningtim

Active Member
Just silicone and trust me it holds! I had to take a 160 apart and it is amazing how strong the sili is.
Phixer, how do you get the bottom inside the rectangle after its dried? I'm about ready to put a 120 together. I was planning on the bottom first and then bring all four sides up to vertical and sealing that way (like GARF).
Just curious!
Tim
 

psusocr1

Active Member
yes phixer please describe this more
the thing with silicone is that IT DRIES QUICK and when it dries its STRONG (anyone who ever tried ot pull an aquarium apart knows) your 99.9% more likely to crack the glass than crack a seam!
but either way i woudld glue all sides one after another and put some nice clamp and tape on there and bingo.
i would just be nervous that with siliconign at seperate times it leaves ALOT of room for error, i guess not as much on a 6 gallon tank rather than a large one but you still get my point!
 

phixer

Active Member
You sprinkle fairy dust on it and click your heels together 3X.
Just joking, here's how it's done. After you have glued the front, sides and back and the sealant is dry, you then take the hollow rectangle (which is now on its side) and carefully flip on to the bottom peice which is already lying flat on the bench. Apply the tape about 1/4 from the edges on the bottom and sides. Apply the sealant, smooth it with a wet finger and let it set. Do not move it at all. When the sealant is dry install the bottom and top frames and silicone in place. The frames can be made of wood or plastic. Colored acrylic makes a good frame and is very strong because of the solvent bond. On a glass tank the frame is very important because the glass does not bow like acrylic, it will tend to push itself apart at the seams or simply crack. By assembling it this way all glueing takes place on a horizontal plane, not as important with silicone because it dosent run the way acrylic solvent cement does but this is the method I use because I find it easier to glue horizontally. Sorry for no pics, cant provide at my current location.
Best regards
 
M

moatdaddy

Guest
garf states to use wooden dowels, has anyone every actually done this. I think if the tank bottom glass has a 1/4 inch to the bottom surface (plywood or a foam) it will want to put extra pressure on the glass. i know pscursor uses wooden strips to make sure its level but are those removed once the silicone dries.
 

phixer

Active Member
Have considered using dowels or a channel that the window sits in for a wood tank. Most of the gigantic display tanks have the window resting in a channel against a gasket. The bottom of a glass tank can be supported differently than an acrylic tank because the glass is more rigid and does not bow as much. The weight of the tank is supported by the perimeter of the frame. Hollow bottom angle iron stands can support a glass tank providing the glass bottom is thick enough. Used to have an old freshwater 55G stainless steel framed Oscar tank with a slate bottom. It was HEAVY.
Regarding the wooden shims they are used beneath the bottom of large panels to prevent them from sagging and to keep both surfaces flush when bonding, is this what you meant?
An acrylic tank must be supported by a completely flat surface.
/R
 
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