Tank cure
- Thread starter dogman
- Start date
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yep, put the fairy wrasee in a QT tank (tank without inverts and live rock), hypo the fairy, and let the main tank run fishless for 6-8 weeks.
dogman
Member
Thanks Lion. I have been told that it is pointless to go through the hypo with yhe fairy wrasse in a different tank while the display is fishless for 6 weeks, as whenever you add any fish to the display the fish bring ick (any fish I assume), it's just not active (the ick) and seen when the fish is not stressed or with low immunity.
I don't really believe this but would like some expert feedback PLEASE. Thank You.
I don't really believe this but would like some expert feedback PLEASE. Thank You.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Just because you do not see the ich on their body does not mean that it has not latched onto them. Ich tomites which have only recently attached themselves to the host will not be readily visable. If the fish are indeed healthy, they will fight it off and get it off their body before it becomes any kind of problem. However, in the time being while it was on the body, it was able to host enough to sustain life. Once the tomite attaches to the host, it matures and the 4 stage cycle of ich begins anew.
That is the reason most people recommend quarantining all new fish. Ich can be brought into your tank without you knowing it. If you QT all of your new arrivals, this is reduced almost entirely. If there is any suspect that a fish has ich while you have him in the QT, you can hypo the fish and kill the ich. Possible reasons to suspect ich even if you do not see it on your fish is scratching from the fish and a quick glance at the rest of the fish at the LFS that are in the SAME system as the fish you bought. If any of the fish in the same system have ich, your fish is exposed to it as well and there is a chance he could be carrying it.
(Note: When I say system, I mean any tank that is hooked up to the same filter that you are purchasing a fish from. Most LFS have rows of fish tanks, and each row is its own "system" all running off the same biological filter.)
Here is the scenario. When you take the fairy wrasse out of the display and put him into QT, you will leave your display fishless for 6 weeks. That will indeed kill all the ich in the display, HOWEVER, if your fairy wrasse carries any ich from the display to QT, then the ich is not eradicated because he can just as easily carry it back in when you put him back into the display. This is the reason why you would hypo him in the QT. When you are running the display fishless for 6 weeks, the ich is dying in there because it has no host. When you are hypoing the fairy in the QT, the ich is also dying in there because it has a very difficult time reproducing and sustaining life when the salt level is so low.
Any questions or confusion, please post and I will be glad to help you.
That is the reason most people recommend quarantining all new fish. Ich can be brought into your tank without you knowing it. If you QT all of your new arrivals, this is reduced almost entirely. If there is any suspect that a fish has ich while you have him in the QT, you can hypo the fish and kill the ich. Possible reasons to suspect ich even if you do not see it on your fish is scratching from the fish and a quick glance at the rest of the fish at the LFS that are in the SAME system as the fish you bought. If any of the fish in the same system have ich, your fish is exposed to it as well and there is a chance he could be carrying it.
(Note: When I say system, I mean any tank that is hooked up to the same filter that you are purchasing a fish from. Most LFS have rows of fish tanks, and each row is its own "system" all running off the same biological filter.)
Here is the scenario. When you take the fairy wrasse out of the display and put him into QT, you will leave your display fishless for 6 weeks. That will indeed kill all the ich in the display, HOWEVER, if your fairy wrasse carries any ich from the display to QT, then the ich is not eradicated because he can just as easily carry it back in when you put him back into the display. This is the reason why you would hypo him in the QT. When you are running the display fishless for 6 weeks, the ich is dying in there because it has no host. When you are hypoing the fairy in the QT, the ich is also dying in there because it has a very difficult time reproducing and sustaining life when the salt level is so low.
Any questions or confusion, please post and I will be glad to help you.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Clarification: Ich is usually in the water because the fish in the LFS come from so many different places. The chances of one of them carrying ich is great. Because that one fish carries it to the LFS, it is eventually exposing all other fish to ich. When you buy the fish and QT it in the proper QT tank, you will be able to observe that fish by itself for 3 weeks in order to see if there is anything to be concerned about. You really have to look closely and be a careful observer during these 3 weeks. If you notice even one speck of ich, a hypo process will work to get rid of them and help you keep them from reproducing in your display. Even if the fish that is currently in the QT doesn't have "ich" because it has a strong enough immune system, another fish may get it due to that fish carrying it. That is why you need to get rid of it in the QT.
dogman
Member
So any new fish has to be QT along with hypo? Hypo because if the fish came from an lfs then one would assume ich is present, even if the fish doesn't display ich for three weeks in the QT.
Also since my display will be empty of fish for 4-6 wks., would it be advisable (OK) to move my skimmer (Ramora Pro) to the QT instead of having a filter for the QT? As Always thanks for the input it is very helpful.
Also since my display will be empty of fish for 4-6 wks., would it be advisable (OK) to move my skimmer (Ramora Pro) to the QT instead of having a filter for the QT? As Always thanks for the input it is very helpful.
lion_crazz
Active Member
No, you don't always need to do hypo. Only do hypo when you suspect or see ich. I wouldn't assume ich is present unless you see a few fish with ich in the LFS' same "system" that you got your fish from. Many LFS treat thier systems with copper when there is ich present, so sometimes there is no ich in their systems.
I would not put your skimmer on your QT unless you are not dosing any medications in there. If all you are doing is running hypo, that is fine. When you start adding things like medications, your skimmer will need to be turned off anyway because it will foam out of control.
I would not put your skimmer on your QT unless you are not dosing any medications in there. If all you are doing is running hypo, that is fine. When you start adding things like medications, your skimmer will need to be turned off anyway because it will foam out of control.
dogman
Member
Just got a 30g. QT yesterday (Sat.). Painted the bottom black (per Beth) and will probably set up tonight.
The fairy is already out of the display being assimulated to lower salinity. I hope to move him tonight to the 1.009 Qt.
Any other suggestions for this QT, filter media etc. I also have a Emperor filter that I could use on the QT.
Thank You to the respondents, please provide last minute help as I will check before tonight. Thanks again.
The fairy is already out of the display being assimulated to lower salinity. I hope to move him tonight to the 1.009 Qt.
Any other suggestions for this QT, filter media etc. I also have a Emperor filter that I could use on the QT.
Thank You to the respondents, please provide last minute help as I will check before tonight. Thanks again.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yep, the emporer filter would be good. A nice 100-150 watt heater would be neccessary. Some fake ornaments would help. A bottle of Fritz Zyme's Turbo Start is also recommended so that the cycle is fast and not very harmful.
I am not sure what you mean when you say the fairy is out of the QT though...
I am not sure what you mean when you say the fairy is out of the QT though...
dogman
Member
I've decided to cycle the QT. What wouyld be the fastest and easiest way. Could just putting a shrimp ( dead shrimp from grocer) in the tank do it . If so how long to leave it in?
I have cycled a tank with pure amonia before which worked but not sure of long term effects as I gave that tank away. Any thoughts? Thank You
I have cycled a tank with pure amonia before which worked but not sure of long term effects as I gave that tank away. Any thoughts? Thank You
lion_crazz
Active Member
You don't really need to use any media in the emporer 400. Just make sure you have the bio wheel.
The cocktail shrimp method would be the best, but as I said, I would use a bottle of Fritz Zyme's Turbo Start if you want the cycle to go faster. This bottle will add live bacteria to the water at a faster rate, so the ammonia will be broken down faster.
The cocktail shrimp method would be the best, but as I said, I would use a bottle of Fritz Zyme's Turbo Start if you want the cycle to go faster. This bottle will add live bacteria to the water at a faster rate, so the ammonia will be broken down faster.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Nope, it is the one with cold packs because it is live. It needs to be kept in the fridge and has an "expiration" date.
lion_crazz
Active Member
One bottle treats 75 gallons, so you would need 2 bottles. For my 210, I used 3 bottles and it worked wonderfully. I have always used this for my own, and my customers' tanks.