The battle continues.

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Do you clean the sand at all when you do water changes. It isn’t recommended to clean large sections because it messes up the biofiltration and released hydrogen sulfide gas and other nasty stuff, but if you clean small sections at a time every time you do a water change it helps keep things balanced.
Is your tank covered?
Power heads? How many? What size?
What kind of lighting? If fluorescent when was the last time you changed bulbs? Any changes in lighting.
What kind of water do you use?

I have found a product called Vibrant helps with hair algae and film algae but it doesn’t help cyano or dinoflagellate. It takes a few weeks to get results.
 

SALTWAT3RFISH

Administrator
Staff member
If the test results you are getting are correct, I'd really have to believe that ORP (Oxygen redox potential) is off. Easiest way to fix that without ozone is water changes. Are you using RODI for top off?
 

Patrick Seastar

New Member
I've always solved these issues with massive bacterial filtration. In today's day & age, bacterial filter media is insane. UV filters only take care of new spores flowing in the water. What happens to the already growing mats of algae? They sustain themselves with the nutrients present which is who most say to lower nutrients in the water. Again, I find the easiest solution is buy bacterial filter media, the good stuff. I'm talking matrix, bio-home, & bricks etc. I've also noted that, most of the algae stays unless I remove what remains.
 
Last edited:
Top