The Beginings of a In Wall Reef

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scighera

Guest
I'll post pics as the project progreses
Next is the wiring, then waterproofing
 
S

scighera

Guest
Tank is a 80gal glass and it will sit on a steel frame that sits on concreate. will soon install 55gal sump underneath
 

acrylic51

Active Member
So far looks good looks like your off to a solid start!!!!!!!
Instead of timers to control humidity you could wire the fan to a humidstat or you could also connect it to a temp control to turn it on and off.
What are you planning for lighting?? Are you building your own sump? Keep us posted!!!!!!
 
S

scighera

Guest
I bought a hummidty sensor and I;m going to wire it in as the fan switch. as for lighting I'm getting T5's on a timer
Thanks for the idea.
Updatded pics


 

acrylic51

Active Member
Looks good and solid.....I'm pretty sure you'll be happy with the humistat on the fan.....I had some much fun wiring and playing with the thing when I installed mine!!!!!!! It helps when your brother in law owns his own electrical company and lets you rumage through things!!!!!!!!
 

zman1

Active Member
Looks good. I'd leave a litte more of a gap on the top frame of the tank and the wood header above it . Flip it vertical and use two rather than flat and put cripplers on the side to support the header(just like they do on windows and door frames in your house) Just in case there is shift or any settling putting force down on the tank... Just a suggestion.
I have always wondered how hard it is to clean the front glass from behind the in wall tanks since you don't get the view will standing there in front looking at the glass. I know you can use a mag float... However, I have still had to use a razerblade if the mag float doesn't get it.
I do like the clean look of in walls. I will try to find one I saw on the WEB. He used off set tile around as a border and looked fantastic!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I understand what your saying about turning the header vertical Zman1, I know it's stronger the way your saying, but it's not carrying any weight, so what's the point?
 

zman1

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
I understand what your saying about turning the header vertical Zman1, I know it's stronger the way your saying, but it's not carrying any weight, so what's the point?

No it's not a load bearing wall.. You tell me when non treaded lumber gets wet what direction do 2x4 tend to bow or twist?. As I described it would be mitigated.
 

zman1

Active Member
Every direction .. I just would try to mitigate any potential that it would be transferred to the top of the tank. Unless the picture is deceiving and the 2x4 is not directly on top of the tank. I would still leave a larger gap and trim it out with"trim" so you don't see the gap. That' my opinion... Opinions are like A$$holes everyone has one, just some are bigger than others.
 
S

scighera

Guest
I really was thinking about installing a 2x6 header not for load bareing but to help stop warping from moisture, but instead I'm wraping the whole inside around the tank with Blueskin vapour barrier witch will give it an air tight seal.
As for the gap, I'm pulling out the good old Saws-All
and making a bigger gap to avoid any pressure build up on the tank itself, I was origanlly going to protrude the tank out of the wall a 1/2 inch and put greenboard tight to it so there would be no trim.
but I think the best way is to put trim around the edges
I haven't made any fanale decisions on what trim to use
but I've been thinking about using brushed stainless steel.
I'll post more pics as they come I just got my 55 gal
and some sheets of greenboard.
almost ready to do my plumbing.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Not disputing 2x4's don't twist, but was also under the assumption that the 2x4 wasn't as close to the top of the tank as the picture shows as well......
 

zman1

Active Member
Originally Posted by Fixed
Using water resistant drywall around the tank?

That's what greenboard is that he mentioned
 
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