The Bonzai Aquarium, a thought experiment.

swampthing

Member
I'm interested in a virtually zero maintenance reef tank. I want to put an auto feeder full of cyclopeeze or something on the tank and fill it once a week. I'll figure some east way to do a 5% water change every week, and maybe clean the glass once in a while. I'm hoping a big DSB will do the heavy filtering.
I picture a 250-350 gallon tank, perhaps 60”x36”x36”tall. About 350 gallons with 2,160 sq.in. Of six inch deep argonite sugar sand. Good flow over the whole of it.
For livestock, I'd only have perhaps two pairs of nano gobies (blue neons maybe), and a pair of peppermint shrimp. Sort of off to one side, I'd put a column of epoxied together live rock. Maybe 40 or 50 pounds. Glued to that, I'd put in tank raised frags of my favorite handful of light loving hards on one side if the column. Then light that side at 15 degree angle or so with some high powered LEDs. The other side of the column gets the small pieces of a few low light softs. Perhaps, a panel of dim floros above the tank for ambiance.
Of course, the setup would have to cycle for quite some time, and the corals and livestock added carefully. I figure a fixed constant amount of particle sized food every day will limit the growth to how much I put in the tank. Eventually the tank would reach an equilibrium with the size of the corals and amount of living things in the tank. I imagine the corals would grow to eat every photon of light in the light column, but that's it.
If that's not enough, I could put another 2160 square inches of deep sand bed in a sump underneath the tank. As an added bonus, the limited lighting should keep the tank from heating. After the whole thing has temperature adjusted, I could find out where the temperature and pH of the tank want to settle at, then I choose an appropriate reef type to match.
This is minimalist reefkeeping. There's gonna be no corals crammed into every single corner of the tank. One single pillar of corals, lit by a shaft of sunlight, almost artwork. No turf scrubber, no protein skimming, reactors of any kind. A strict quarantine program for everything that goes in to keep out the nasties.
Thoughts? Could this work over a term of decades?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I don't think the DSB is your answer to long term "hands off success".......Just my .02 though....Your going to need a good regimen as far as keeping the sand bed maintained, and IMHO that isn't something you just "plop" in there and SHAZAAAAMMMMMMM.....It will not take care of itself regardless of what others might say.
Not saying you need all the fancy equipment to run a good; successful tank, but I'm sure at some point your going to want to run something to help along the lines of filtration.......As far as good flow, you'll have IMO again keeping a DSB and maintaining high; good flow.......With your rock work setup flow shouldn't be an issue, but there's a little more science to things to a degree other than dropping in some PH's or what not and saying it flows. A big key area is making your overflow box and flow work efficiently.....That I believe is a very big key. IMHO again this is an area that you should look at very seriously and most hobbyist don't put much thought into that aspect of things......
I like the idea;concept of your lighting.....No sense in lighting the tank full.....IMO lighting is to highlight areas, as in nature in areas.....As far as temperature and PH, those areas can change and fluctuate, and many things influence those numbers and readings, so it would nearly be impossible to say what they would be or if they will stay.....For instance depending on your house and time of year you might see your PH up or down. That is a know issue at times, and again over time you could easily be able to predict to a degree where your PH will fall into.....
As far as the bio load your talking about putting on the tank, that really depends on inhabitants and size......Corals put less load if it were a "coral only" tank.....Again this is where I highly question the ability of just sand bed without proper maintenance, and again I'm not talking about solely relying on CUC to do the job. I'm talking manual; physical labor at times on your part. I do like the water change idea, but I go back to the idea, there has to be a degree of input from you other than filling the auto feeder and forget......I think you'll want a bit more than 5% water change weekly.....I could see something on the line of 5% daily/continuous water change, but 5% and you not having other methods of filtration.....I just don't see long term success.....
Just my .02
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Another note.....36" depth.....Looks good, but as far as aquascaping and light penetration might be an issue, but really depends on what your planning on keeping and placement.....Most try to steer clear of great depths.....If anything I'd take 4" off the height and add it to the width of the tank........
 

swampthing

Member
Very good concerns, Shawn. And I do hear them. I've got almost three years on my current reef tank, and two on the one before that, so I know it takes a good long time for a DSB to set up. My real question, I suppose, is how much cyclopeeze could that much sand bed neutralize? The reason I ask is that I recently (several weeks) put a DSB into my new sump, and with two 4-watt LEDs at 8 hours a day, the speed with which it has it has populated itself is astonishing.
What sort of sand bed maintenance are you talking about? And is it the kind of thing that could be handled by several nerite snails? I'm a turf scrubber/protein skimmer guy myself. My DSBs are inadvertently putting that much sand in cause I heard it was a good thing. I guess my overall hypothesis is put a little coral and inverts into a tank that's much too big for them and keep the feeding to less than what the flora and fauna could handle.
5% of 350 gallons every weeks is a bunch of buckets of water. A tank that big is gonna call for hundreds of pounds of argonite, and the argonite in my inversts, softs, and fish tank handles the calcium levels automatically. The pH is gonna rise and fall as it does in all tanks with the night/day cycle of course. And I'd put a heater in to maintain a minimum temp at a reef tolerable level, I just would rather choose inhabitants already evolved for the easiest conditions for me to maintain.
I know the problems of a deep tank, I just think they're great, that's all. Hopefully, in the couple of years I would need to enact this scheme, the LEDs will improve enough to do the trick.
Seriously, it's a crap idea? No merit at all? What about with a plenum (even though I think those things are time bombs)?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampThing http:///t/392198/the-bonzai-aquarium-a-thought-experiment#post_3481173
Very good concerns, Shawn. And I do hear them. I've got almost three years on my current reef tank, and two on the one before that, so I know it takes a good long time for a DSB to set up. My real question, I suppose, is how much cyclopeeze could that much sand bed neutralize? The reason I ask is that I recently (several weeks) put a DSB into my new sump, and with two 4-watt LEDs at 8 hours a day, the speed with which it has it has populated itself is astonishing. What sort of sand bed maintenance are you talking about? And is it the kind of thing that could be handled by several nerite snails? I'm a turf scrubber/protein skimmer guy myself. My DSBs are inadvertently putting that much sand in cause I heard it was a good thing. I guess my overall hypothesis is put a little coral and inverts into a tank that's much too big for them and keep the feeding to less than what the flora and fauna could handle. 5% of 350 gallons every weeks is a bunch of buckets of water. A tank that big is gonna call for hundreds of pounds of argonite, and the argonite in my inversts, softs, and fish tank handles the calcium levels automatically. The pH is gonna rise and fall as it does in all tanks with the night/day cycle of course. And I'd put a heater in to maintain a minimum temp at a reef tolerable level, I just would rather choose inhabitants already evolved for the easiest conditions for me to maintain. I know the problems of a deep tank, I just think they're great, that's all. Hopefully, in the couple of years I would need to enact this scheme, the LEDs will improve enough to do the trick. Seriously, it's a crap idea? No merit at all? What about with a plenum (even though I think those things are time bombs)?
I'm not saying it couldn't be done....What I'm saying or suggesting, is DSB have proven that they do work, but you have to look at a DSB as basically a septic tank.....Figure how much food you'll dump into the tank daily.....As with a septic tank it has to be pumped out at some time or it will clog....Basics, and this applies to a sand bed as well, and don't really care how deep or how much. It just means your buying yourself time by going larger and IMHO wasting space, but at some point it will become clogged and not be able to perform it's function to it's fullest....Again I stated that CUC are great, but something of this magnitude where you don't want to employ other means of mechanical filtration, I would suggest, and it's be discussed that a sand bed needs the human touch at times.....That debatable topic of turning or shifting sand is a "myth". If done this way from the start and I'm not referring to turning the entire sand bed at 1 time, but started from the onset of the system it will be fine. Again this is a topic that has been discussed, extensively elsewhere, and if you do some searching info you do read you'll find that "those DSB" that did crash you could more or attribute it to lacking of the maintenance I'm referring too.......
I don't see where your gaining any filtering capacity by employing tons of sand vs using more traditional methods employed these days, with the potential risks of a DSB......Again you talked about "minimal" equipment use "natural" approach.....I don't see how dumping tons of uneaten food into any sand bed has long term success regardless of how much light you apply......Again do a bit of reading and look at the recommended CUC per gallon to maintain a sand bed. It isn't what most recommend around here by far......I put more faith in info I get elsewhere at times than here. Here I think they add way to much of a CUC, but that's my personal opinion......
Anyways, you talk about auto feeding....You make no mention of using a controller of some sort to shut your main pump down during the feeding cycle.....IMHO without doing that your wasting again....Wasting food that will be sucked down to your sump, which will sit and rot.....Sit and rot, while all your tank water will cycle and circulate through waste.....The same would apply to using a filter sock that is polluted with uneaten food......your water is continual run through "waste" and again puts an extra burden/load on the system. Employing filter socks you would need to change them quite frequently......With that said why do the fish have to be fed daily......Possible your overfeeding your system to begin with......Again we all have our own approach on things and no right or wrong way.
Personally if you want to use the "natural" approach I would seriously consider a controller to shut the main pump down during feeding and employ some type of removal system of uneaten food after the feeding process.....You stated your a skimmer guy, so why not employ something that "might" make things easier on the maintenance end of things.....You can use a good skimmer with an auto shut off if the collection container is full, you can also add a skimmer neck cleaner, so the skimmer neck is kept clean and operating at top efficiency all the time.....Again some things could easily be accomplished with the addition of a controller. Is this approach due to work schedule/travel. If that's the case again a controller might be an integral part of your design and layout......The controller could send you alerts if something would go amiss with your system. Also would aid in running your lighting system and monitoring your PH, temp and what not......
I'm not a big DSB fan.....Never have been and never subscribed to the mindset that they make a tank run more efficient.....Not saying they don't work, but again I will add my .02 on the DSB......Your nitrification and denitrification process occur with the top 1" of a sand bed anyways, so what is the real purpose of going deeper.......Maybe it might be for a specific species your trying to keep........Personally I don't want to look at 6" of sand......1. 6" of sand is taking up space, space that it doesn't need to.....2. Who wants to see the ugly colors that appear through the layers of the sand bed as it works.....I personally don't want to see it and thinks it detracts from the overall beauty of a piece of art.......Again my .02.....
As far as water changes......You might need to look at automation.....Not being mean, but trying to bring things to the forefront that apparently have been over looked. With a system of this size and nature and your words of "hands off", automating water changes would be a key element if I were designing this system......Something again I mentioned earlier a controller could handle this function.....Another component that could handle this would be the Litemeter III or the ReefFiller for automated/automatic water changes, so there would be no bucket carrying at all......Again if your planning and want to employ a system of this size and magnitude I don't think you should be squabbling over the carrying of buckets.......
As far as your sand bed buffering your system.......
Misinformation possibly, but you will see very little buffering affect from your sand bed, so you loose points as far as the pluses for a DSB.........Have you ever looked at a BB tank.......If sand was a necessity for buffering capacity, why do these tank thrive......Basically because it's not needed, and as I mentioned earlier 1" SB would do just the same.......
Yes Ph does rise and fall during the day/night cycle.....Shouldn't be drastic though, and there are ways to combat that.....Again I more referring to during the winter months when a house is closed up that can drastically play havoc on your Ph as well. These things again you'll note and chart as the system develops......Again with this size system or any system at that I'd recommend a controller to ease some of the guess work.......
Not saying a bad plan, but serious thinking on your part before you enact......LEDs can handle what your after, just your not going to keep SPS on the bottom of the tank, but as you stated over time things evolve and change......As far as the DSB; sand issue......To each his own.....My only concern and I know it will be a problem as you suggested in your initial post about good flow.....You will not keep fine sand in place with vigorous water flow......I do know that for a fact!!!!!!
 

swampthing

Member
I was hoping your answer wouldn't make much sense. So now I'm sad.
The overarching idea was to slowly, over time, build up the smallest invert community into something that would function like a plant as much as possible. With minimum feedings aside from outside the lights. Sort of like a bonsai tree.
For example, start with as little in there as possible. Hardly anything at all. Give it a year and maybe add something. Definitely make sure you get a quality tank cause it's for the long haul.
A few minutes of raking here and there, who could care? Sure. Some water changes, of course. And some minor cleaning and pump maintenance and that's about it.
Dead in the water? Can't come up with anything?
 

swampthing

Member
Sorry. Incorrect terminology. How much biomass could I expect to maintain indefinitely? I really can't plan past a few years, so let's say an optomistic 13 years.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I think that you are going way, way overboard with the size of the tank to be honest. And as Acrylic suggested, I would never have a deep sand bed in the display tank itself unless I was trying to keep a critter that required a sandbed that deep.
If you want a self sustaining ecosystem, it can be done, but you really have to put a lot of thought into it. Why spend the money on a 350g tank to put only two neon gobies in it?
Your best bet is to have a 55g display tank with a lot of rock work and a 1" sandbed. Drill your tank for an overflow and use a 55g sump. The sump needs to have some carbon in it, perhaps in the first chamber - as well as a nice sized octopus skimmer with a swabbie and a Davey Jones skimmate locker. The rest of the sump would be copepod heaven - using tons of different types of macroalgaes, a 4" sandbed if you prefer to have a deep sand bed - which will have to be gravel siphoned once every 2 to 3 years, and some live rock to give copepods a place to breed.
You talk about using LED lighting over the tank - that's fine to do in a smaller, shallower tank. Use a minimalist technique to your rock work in the display tank "Bonzai Style". Use a couple of efficient powerheads that can be controlled via a controller. Speaking of a controller - since all new and old tanks use calcium, alkalinity and magnesium, you could easily partition off a 5g tank and use a controller autodoser to dose your three main chemicals. That's a simple way of adding ca, alk, and mg in the water over time. All you would have to do is keep adding the three parts to your 5g tank when they get low.
The thing would be to try to get enough pod production going ... so copepods will feed whatever is in the display tank - be it neon gobies or a mandarin. You could put your cyclopeeze in a auto feeder if you wish in the display tank and let it go off every two to three days. Also, for copepod production you need to add some phytoplankton to the system. Check out the "wine cooler phytoplankton doser"
The "wine cooler phytoplankton doser" uses a one bottle wine cooler, a small hand towel that is wrapped around one of those medical drip bags. You can find a small auto dose pump from a medical supply store to auto dose your phytoplankton as the wine cooler keeps the phyto cool. Place it feeding the refugium in your sump. That way, copepods will get an adequate dose of phytoplankton to breed and multiply.
BUT, as acrylic said, you will still need to maintain a sand bed every now and then, you will have to keep up with how much phyto and cyclopeeze you have. You will have to keep up with harvesting macroalgaes out of the system every two to three weeks. You will have to maintain the levels of the big three chemicals on the controllers autodoser. You will need to gravel vac your DSB fuge every two years or so. You will need to change your carbon out every 30 days. And that really isn't a completely hands off system either - it would just make maintenance easier.
 

swampthing

Member
The main tank will be 4 or 5 feet wide, 18 inches front to back and the height could really be anything. It's going into a wall of built in cabinetry, so any DSB could be stylishly hidden with a simple piece of wood trim. There's plenty of room on the other side of the wall from it for any kind of filtration.
I really like you feeding regimen. I'm a believer in feeding them as little as you can get away with. Whatever goes in has to come out. that's why I'm leery of automating any kind of chemical additives. Probably just from lack of experience with them. And my Koralia two pump wavemaker is supposed to get to me today, so I'm way onboard with proper water flow. I'd try to keep the tank natural looking by using a closed loop system.
Swabbie. Davie Jones skimmate locker. I've never read about these, so I'm gonna have to search those.
Also, I love the idea of the refugium pod farm and macroalgae forest.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
There are a few very good and reputable dosers out there as Seth has suggested.....It can be done quite simply or complex if you choose.....Again a big key component that was brought up by someone other than me was with your ideas and wants a controller seems to be a key component to your system. The doser isn't something you would sit up today, and it stay consistent with the amount needed to dose. I would highly suggest running the system for a bit and figuring out what your tanks needs actually are, and then the dosers can be brought on line. Again this wouldn't be a week or 2 of watching IMHO.......But once the consumption rate is determined the dosers can very accurately deliver the exact dosage needed.....I'm pretty sure some dosers are way more accurate than some folks measuring and adding manually, and again the dosing isn't done instantly......it's a calculated drip basically........
Just as with using a doser when we hit upon water changes, this exact same thing/principle could be employed doing small continuous water changes.......The amounts would be minute and spread out over the period of hours or 24hrs depending how you choose....Again I think the system would be healthier and more stable vs making bigger bucket changes...
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
If you want a set and (almost) forget ca,alk,mg and trace dosing, use a calcium reactor. Why water changes are important with an auto doser is that by adding those additives to the tank will increase your salinity and tip the amount of sodium in the tank. Calcium reactors do not increase salinity over time and actually add more trace elements - thereby almost eliminating the need to do water changes to "replenish trace elements". Proper water changes are very important, however, in that you remove excess detritus and fish waste from the rocks and sandbed. Depending on your technique, this might only take anywhere from 5g a week to 10g a month.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I'm not buying into the 5-10 gallon water change per month solely relying on a DSB........Your talking a water volume over 400 gallons Seth.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Im not talking about a dsb. Lol.
If you have the right equipment, correct flow and proper nutrient export, then using a water change to siphon out detritus build up in the sand and on/within the rocks may only take 5g a week for a water change to remove the detritus/waste.
By the way, ive ran tanks for up to a little over a year without any water change at all. There is a guy on RC that i think won a totm and he hasnt done a water change on his reef in 10+ years.
 

swampthing

Member
I've posted my scrubber and sump specifications in the DIY forum for your perusal.
It seems like the dream of an all natural one tank system, no matter how lightly loaded, is for someone smarter than me (perhaps future me). It seem's like my next tank is gonna be another two-fer. Maybe the one after that will be the bonzai tank I'm want.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392198/the-bonzai-aquarium-a-thought-experiment#post_3481294
Im not talking about a dsb. Lol.
If you have the right equipment, correct flow and proper nutrient export, then using a water change to siphon out detritus build up in the sand and on/within the rocks may only take 5g a week for a water change to remove the detritus/waste.
By the way, ive ran tanks for up to a little over a year without any water change at all. There is a guy on RC that i think won a totm and he hasnt done a water change on his reef in 10+ years.
Sorry Seth wasn't really referring back to you as far as the DSB, I was thinking about the original idea of DSB and minimal water changes.....You mention RC TOTM and no water changes.....Sounds great, but as you and I both know there's equipment being run behind the scenes to remove the unwanteds.....That's what I was trying to get at......Not saying going without water changes can't or couldn't work, but we all know it's not going to balance itself out IMHO with just topping off and minimal water changes.....Again my .02 5gal a week is like spitting in a pond......Maybe on a smaller system running decent equipment, but keeping inline of minimal equipment, just don't see it.
As far a Ca reactor vs dosing.....Early stages would probably be better suited in the early stages, and the reactor isn't IMO a save all for balancing the system......At some point yes, but from the onset of the build no......
By the way Seth if you get a chance give me a buzz when you have a chance!!!!!!!
 
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