The Final List

joeyg2100

joeyg2100

Member
Finally after over a year of research and buying all the stuff for my 30 gallon tank I have finally come up with everything that I am going to get. I am will share with you what I have. Please let me know what you think about my list
Equipment that I have
30 gallon glass tank
2-Hydor Koralia 1 (800 gph)
1-Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer (I know it's not the best)
1-250 watt HQI Metal Halide w/2-60 Watt PC's
1-75 gpd RO/DI unit
1-Jager Heater - 150 Watt
10 gallon hospital tank with heater and light
Stuff Yet to get
Red Sea Pro Coral Salt
45 pounds of live rock
API SW Master Test Kit
API Reef Master Kit
Hydrometer
Livestock
Fish
2-Fals Percula Clown Fish
1-Firefish
1-Bangai Cardinal Fish (Could I get two of these?)
1-Lawnmower Bleny
Inverts
5-Hermit Crabs
3-Nassarius snails
10-Turbo snails
2-Cleaner Shrimp
1-Bubble Tip Anemone
3-Feather Dusters
-Maybe a cumcumber (any recommendations
Coral
I think I should be able to get just about any coral I want with the setup I have, but I am going to keep it easy to begin with for the first year or two.
Any input would be great.
Thanks for looking
 
michaeltx

michaeltx

Moderator
you 250 watt IMO is over kill a 150 would be great for a 30 gallon tank.
I would skip the crabs and go with some more snails instead crabs are opertunistic and cause problems including eating your snails.
I beleive the cardinals do bett in groups of 3 or more maybe bang guy will see this thread and add his input since he has raised them before.
youll have to watch and take precaution on the firefish because they are jumpers.
I would actually split the heater or get a second of the same size it wont help when over heating failure but will keep it where if one just stops working the other will kick in and keep the tank temp up.
youll also need a cheap powerhead in the QT to keep movement.
I would also add a TDS meter and a phosphate test to list
looks good though you have done your research!!
once you get started keep a picture diary on here as alotof people have done it will give you a reference point of where you were to where you have come to.
Mike
 
lexluethar

lexluethar

Active Member
I would definately go with a 150 watt MH instead of the 250, you will be able to keep anything anywhere in that tank w/ the 150. As for the PC, unless they are aktinic (sp*) for looks, i would skip out on these, they aren't necessary. Your tank is getting the propery amount of PARS from the 150 watt MH, no need to have any other bulbs unless you are doing it for looks (in which case i would still say don't do it an just get a higher K bulb for a 'bluer' look).
Kutos on doing your homework, everything looks great and would work, what i've posted is only my suggestion on how to save you some money. Also add a small fan to blow accross the surface of the water to keep temp around 78.
 
michaeltx

michaeltx

Moderator
if you look at the 150 clip ons like the viper and coralife they have fans preinstalled on them aswell.
Mike
 
joeyg2100

joeyg2100

Member
Well I have already bought the light, so I am going to stick with that. It has
2-60 watt aktinic PC's that I will only keep on for a limmited time durring the day. THis light also has two 4" fans built into the top, but ya I will get some fan's to blow accross the surface of the water. Is this light going to be to much, or can I make overhangs for the corals that need less light?
The 30 gallon is what I stuck with b/c I already had the tank and I can't afford to get a bigger one with me planning a wedding right now
I already have a cheap powerhead for my RO water tub and my hospital tank.
Good idea with the heaters I do have an extra one in my 55 gallon stand that isn't being used.
 
camfish

camfish

Active Member
Originally Posted by prime311
http:///forum/post/2650685
You might want to avoid the API kits. I don't believe they're results are always accurate.
I sort of agree with that. Most API tests are almost worthless with how hard they are to read. It is like saying if the color is orange, your nitrates are 5ppm, if it is orange, they are 10ppm and if the color is orange, then your nitrates are 15ppm.
 
aquaguy24

aquaguy24

Active Member
u should of gotten a 150w light and use the money u saved on a better protein skimmer..but 30g won't need much skimming...with that 250w in such a small tank u are going to have huge jumps in temps...i don't think just fans will help...i had temp problems in my 24g aquapod with just the stock light..which was around 65watts.it also had built in fans..i never had to run my heater. except in winter tho...u might need a chiller...1/10 hp chiller will do...
with an ro/di unit u shouldn't have much hair aglea so the lawnmower blenny is not really needed unless u really want one then u have to supplement with somekind of algea sheet or flakes or better yet frozen formula two cubes..
how bout some type of goby like a yellowwatchman goby...i have a randalls goby paired up with a tiger pistol shrimp...fish protects the cave and the shrimp keeps it clean...
 
joeyg2100

joeyg2100

Member
Ok I am going to do a test run with this light to see how the temps do. I am going to fill the tank today and let the lights run and see what the temp does. I might have to down size the light if it heats it up to much.
Thanks for the help
 
aquaguy24

aquaguy24

Active Member
u can try hanging the light from the ceiling so u have more room to adjust the height...u should leave more space between the lights and tank...that might help with the intensity of the light and heat issuse...if ur just gonna do a test run remember to compensate for the loss water volume due to live rock and sand....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top