The Great Debate T5 versus MH

[jefnmichele]

Well, I've got lots of questions about Metal Halides and T5 lights.
I would like to hear what types of coral you have done successfully under which lights. The new T5's claim to be just as bright as metal halides, without the heat.
I've looked at spectral analyses and what they are showing is often very close. I just installed a Tek light 5 36" with 6 giesman bulbs, also individual reflectors, Aquapure+ x 4 and 2 powerblue+ actinics.
I chucked the boxes before committing to memory the actual names of the bulbs but they were one of the best bulbs and the cleanest bulbs the Giesmann makes. They are 39 watts a piece. These lights are super bright; they look just as bright as my 4 150's MH's do on my work tanks.
I have had guys that have been doing this for more than 20 years tell me that there is no other bulb for coral than MH. I have also had guys with the same amount of time into tanks tell me that the new t-5's, the good ones like Giesmann, are just as good or better than any MH.
Like to hear what everyone thinks. Just the facts ma'am, just the facts...

 

[truckie174]

I am currently in the great debate mode myself, prior to buying a fixture. I spoke with a gentleman at a LFS earlier this week. He had replaced a few of his Halide Fixtures with T5 fixtures about a month and a half ago. He felt that the T5's were actually out preforming the halides. The corals in the few tanks in his opinion looked better (health wise) with the newer fixtures than the old. I had not seen them prior to this visit so I couldn't attest personally.

 

[natclanwy]

The only thing I remember when I did all my research on the different types of light was that the MH are supposed to penetrate the water better than T5's. This would only make a difference in a deeper tank so this may or may not be true just thought I would throw it out there if anyone knows better please let me know.

 

[snakeblitz33]

MH's have better par value as well as lumens than do T5's. T5's are great on a budget, but I don't think that they are the "be all end all" of lights.
MH's do tend to pierce the water better, as well as make a better dramatic effect on the surface of the rocks (being a source point of light instead of a strip)
T5's do have their place in saltwater reef aquaria though. The bulbs say that they last up to 15 months, however in 6 months they loose their spectrum and have to be replaced. Metal halides, depending if you get pulse start or probe start burn at the same Kelvin rating regardless of the life of the bulb. Once a MH bulb starts to go bad, the ballast will "cycle." It is good practice, however, to replace the bulb at least once a year.
Just my $0.02

 

[wangotango]

There is no better system, each has their own strengths and weaknesses. If you have a large tank that is also very deep (30" or more IMO) then you will need halides. Anything else T5 will work just fine.
Don't think that you can say that halides have better PAR overall than T5. A good T5 setup can kick the crap out of a halide setup.
It all come down to preference. T5 last longer, are more efficient, run cooler, and you can blend different bulb combinations. Halides will give you good penetration at deeper depths and produce a shimmer.
That said some of the nicest tanks I've seen were lit only with T5.
-Justin

 

[snakeblitz33]

I totally agree with WangoTango.
I think that you can use either, but definately halides on deep tanks. However, I have noticed that T5's do loose their spectrum after about 6 months, and most of the time costs more then halide bulbs to replace, depending on the amount that you have to buy, and the amount you buy them for.
In any case, they both have their place.

 

[acrylic51]

I agree that T5's are good lights, and have been proven to work on SPS dominated tanks....As far as kicking the crap out of a MH setup

yeah maybe some cheapo spider reflectors, but put them up against the correct bulb/ballast combination in a Lumenbright or LAIII reflector....they wouldn't kick the crap of by any means......

 

[coachklm]

I'd love to see some MH's kick the **** out of my ATI powermodules...

the different lighting options/price/par/consistency are what sold me..

ohh p.s. add 300$ to any MH setup for the chiller or fans your gonna need (unless you live in alaska)

 

[natclanwy]

Originally Posted by coachKLM
http:///forum/post/2543734
I'd love to see some MH's kick the **** out of my ATI powermodules...

the different lighting options/price/par/consistency are what sold me..

ohh p.s. add 300$ to any MH setup for the chiller or fans your gonna need (unless you live in alaska)
MH's don't always need a chiller depending on your setup I have successfully run my tank for 3 years with 2 250w MH's and 4 65w PCs over a 55g with a 30g sump without a chiller and have actually needed a heater to maintain consistent temps in my tank. Where you live doesn't have all that much bearing on whether you need a chiller or not unless you live someplace that has high humidity. Outside temps are irrelevant the only one that matters is the inside temperature.

 

[reefraff]

A top end 250 watt halide will beat out a top end T5 fixture but not by a great deal. Mid end T5 will top a mid end halid though. As was stated before there is no best. If heat or space is a concern T5's have a big advantage. Other than that personal taste.

 

[wattsupdoc]

This is not a fair comparison, but I think it's kinda interesting. I recently broke down the 65 and combined it with my 135. Being as it was a dimly lit tank prior to this, I gotta do something with the lighting. So, I bought an Ice cap retro, with the spider reflector and the cheapo coralvue 250 watt 20,000 k lamp. I dismantled the T5HO fixture I had on the 65 and added it to a pendant hood. Right now, until I get the cash to get the other set, this is what I have. On one side, 4 10,000k UVL's and 2 super actinic T5's. With a SINGLE reflector. On the other side, a 250 coralvue 20,000K with large spider reflector and Icecap electronic ballast, and 2 super actinics.
It's not a fair comparison as these bulbs are near the end of their life(T5's), there's only 4 of them and the reflector is cheapo single jobber, as well as the bulbs are about 4 in further away from the surface. Also the MH is quite blue.

 

[chilwil84]

for par number in t5s to match 250 watt mh under decent reflectors you need to be running an icecap ballast overdriving the bulbs like the (might be the constalation by aquatinics) or a retro icecap setup.

 

[reefraff]

Originally Posted by chilwil84
http:///forum/post/2544100
for par number in t5s to match 250 watt mh under decent reflectors you need to be running an icecap ballast overdriving the bulbs like the (might be the constalation by aquatinics) or a retro icecap setup.
The non overdriven activley cooled T5's with good reflectors (ATI Sun Power, ATI Powermodule, Aquactinics TX5, Constellation, Fauna Marin Ultra Solaris) Will match or beat most 250 watt halides. Until you get into the lumenarc type reflectors and HQI ballasts the halides aren't going to beat the T5's. The fact the T5's can be so much closer to the water gives them a big advantage.

 

[chilwil84]

thats what i meant by decent reflectors not trying to say spider or small style pendents, etc will keep up