Think This Will Work?
- Thread starter tankyou
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scsinet
Active Member
Maybe I'm being thick but what does "tumble ogo" mean?
You could do it this way, but with the flow rate of a mag 24, the filter bag will clog in NO time, quite possibly resulting in a wrecked pump.
Danner makes foam filters for their pumps, but not the mag24. It's flow rate is simply too high to use foam on. They make them for up to the mag 18.
Coach makes a good point... what in the WORLD would you want with 2400 GPH in a fuge? That's so much water flow there is no way any of the good stuff like detrivoires woulod survive, they'd all get sucked out. Fuges should be calm with a very gentle steady flow... not more than a few hundred GPH at the very most.
You could do it this way, but with the flow rate of a mag 24, the filter bag will clog in NO time, quite possibly resulting in a wrecked pump.
Danner makes foam filters for their pumps, but not the mag24. It's flow rate is simply too high to use foam on. They make them for up to the mag 18.
Coach makes a good point... what in the WORLD would you want with 2400 GPH in a fuge? That's so much water flow there is no way any of the good stuff like detrivoires woulod survive, they'd all get sucked out. Fuges should be calm with a very gentle steady flow... not more than a few hundred GPH at the very most.
coachklm
Active Member
Color: Ogo has a red color.
Feeding: Will require sufficient lighting for photosynthesis.
Behavior: Ogo species are generally peaceful toward other tankmates.
Care: Many consider ogo species a low-maintenance specimen.
Lighting: Has high lighting needs.
Water flow: The requires intermediate water flow. not 2400gph
General notes: Gracilaria pacifica is a macro algae commonly found off of the coast of North and Central America. This algae is aquacultured and comes harvested in the adult form and unable to re-attach to rock. Gracilaria pacifica makes for an ideal food for tangs, rabbit fish and other herbivorous algae grazers. The relatively small bunches makes this an ideal choice for small to medium sized fish. One order will consist of one handful or about 1 cup of loose, unattached ogo and will ship with water. Quantity may vary slightly.
Water parameters: Keep water quality high (SG 1.023 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F).
Origin: Gracilaria pacifica is a macro algae commonly found off of the coast of North and Central America.
Feeding: Will require sufficient lighting for photosynthesis.
Behavior: Ogo species are generally peaceful toward other tankmates.
Care: Many consider ogo species a low-maintenance specimen.
Lighting: Has high lighting needs.
Water flow: The requires intermediate water flow. not 2400gph
General notes: Gracilaria pacifica is a macro algae commonly found off of the coast of North and Central America. This algae is aquacultured and comes harvested in the adult form and unable to re-attach to rock. Gracilaria pacifica makes for an ideal food for tangs, rabbit fish and other herbivorous algae grazers. The relatively small bunches makes this an ideal choice for small to medium sized fish. One order will consist of one handful or about 1 cup of loose, unattached ogo and will ship with water. Quantity may vary slightly.
Water parameters: Keep water quality high (SG 1.023 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F).
Origin: Gracilaria pacifica is a macro algae commonly found off of the coast of North and Central America.
tankyou
Member
Here's a good description of ogo
(scroll down)
"Gracilaria (ogo) is also one of the very best algae for vegetable filters. It does require brighter light than alternative genera (2 watts per liter approximately) and appreciates very strong water movement like Chaetomorpha to keep the colony tumbling for good health and growth. With these provisions, though, it has the added benefits of great aesthetic beauty and it is quite useful for feeding herbivorous creatures. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo
Gracilaria can be equally effective as Chaetomorpha for nutrient export and has the added benefit of being more palatable to herbivorous fishes if (re-)cycling of the nutrients is preferred instead. In fact, the genus has been quite palatable to numerous creatures for centuries as humans can testify; it has been eaten by coastal peoples for many years and is known as the culinary delight "Ogo" to diners of Asian cuisine (it is a popularly recognized ingredient to cosmopolitan sushi diners that enjoy "seaweed salad" with their meals!). Gracilaria is a organism of great fisheries interest which generates millions of dollars in revenue in Japan and Hawaii for example. Commercial organizations culture the algae on lines or tumbling in baskets in shallow, coastal tropical waters. As a refugiums species, it has all of the same befits as Chaetomorpha (namely, multicellular and stable when pruned, fast-growing and non-toxic). It is somewhat more demanding about receiving strong water flow and really excels if kept tumbling, although Gracilaria will attach to a substrate readily. This "Ogo" is also more demanding about lighting; I recommend something close to 2 watts per liter of water in shallow refugiums (tanks less than 40 cm deep). Because of the greater demand for lighting, a tumbling colony of Gracilaria can be kept more efficiently under lower lighting, you see now.
Tip
When red Gracilaria is getting good, bright light, it will often turn orange or even slightly yellow, particularly at the fringing ends. Many aquarists associate this with poor health, but the opposite is true! We only think the color is sickly because most of us like the solid red color better. In fact, a darkening (to deep blood colored red) is actually a sign of lower light conditions and not really conducive to optimal performance in a "vegetable filter" refugiums.
In summary, there really is no one "best" species of algae at large. Rather, we must each evaluate the needs and benefits of each candidate to suit our own preferences and needs in aquarium husbandry. All three genera mentioned here can be used effectively for nutrient export. For the busy aquarist that needs minimal complications, Chaetomorpha is clearly the best algae. For enthusiasts keeping heavy populations of herbivorous fishes like Tangs/Surgeonfishes, Rabbits/Foxfaces and Angelfishes; the delightfully edible Gracilaria is the way to go. And for disciplined aquarists that are up to the challenge, the aesthetic beauty of more than forty species of decorative Caulerpa awaits them. A different flavor for every taste preference!" (emphasis added)
(scroll down)
"Gracilaria (ogo) is also one of the very best algae for vegetable filters. It does require brighter light than alternative genera (2 watts per liter approximately) and appreciates very strong water movement like Chaetomorpha to keep the colony tumbling for good health and growth. With these provisions, though, it has the added benefits of great aesthetic beauty and it is quite useful for feeding herbivorous creatures. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo
Gracilaria can be equally effective as Chaetomorpha for nutrient export and has the added benefit of being more palatable to herbivorous fishes if (re-)cycling of the nutrients is preferred instead. In fact, the genus has been quite palatable to numerous creatures for centuries as humans can testify; it has been eaten by coastal peoples for many years and is known as the culinary delight "Ogo" to diners of Asian cuisine (it is a popularly recognized ingredient to cosmopolitan sushi diners that enjoy "seaweed salad" with their meals!). Gracilaria is a organism of great fisheries interest which generates millions of dollars in revenue in Japan and Hawaii for example. Commercial organizations culture the algae on lines or tumbling in baskets in shallow, coastal tropical waters. As a refugiums species, it has all of the same befits as Chaetomorpha (namely, multicellular and stable when pruned, fast-growing and non-toxic). It is somewhat more demanding about receiving strong water flow and really excels if kept tumbling, although Gracilaria will attach to a substrate readily. This "Ogo" is also more demanding about lighting; I recommend something close to 2 watts per liter of water in shallow refugiums (tanks less than 40 cm deep). Because of the greater demand for lighting, a tumbling colony of Gracilaria can be kept more efficiently under lower lighting, you see now.
Tip
When red Gracilaria is getting good, bright light, it will often turn orange or even slightly yellow, particularly at the fringing ends. Many aquarists associate this with poor health, but the opposite is true! We only think the color is sickly because most of us like the solid red color better. In fact, a darkening (to deep blood colored red) is actually a sign of lower light conditions and not really conducive to optimal performance in a "vegetable filter" refugiums.
In summary, there really is no one "best" species of algae at large. Rather, we must each evaluate the needs and benefits of each candidate to suit our own preferences and needs in aquarium husbandry. All three genera mentioned here can be used effectively for nutrient export. For the busy aquarist that needs minimal complications, Chaetomorpha is clearly the best algae. For enthusiasts keeping heavy populations of herbivorous fishes like Tangs/Surgeonfishes, Rabbits/Foxfaces and Angelfishes; the delightfully edible Gracilaria is the way to go. And for disciplined aquarists that are up to the challenge, the aesthetic beauty of more than forty species of decorative Caulerpa awaits them. A different flavor for every taste preference!" (emphasis added)
tankyou
Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Coach makes a good point... what in the WORLD would you want with 2400 GPH in a fuge? That's so much water flow there is no way any of the good stuff like detrivoires woulod survive, they'd all get sucked out. Fuges should be calm with a very gentle steady flow... not more than a few hundred GPH at the very most.
Flow won't be 2400 gph in fuge. Flow is split between fuge and DT. Actually wanted total flow to go to DT originally but the mag overwhelmed my overflows on testing, so the only thing I could think to do was divert some flow back to fuge. I thought tumbling ogo would be a novel way to deal with the higher than desired flow in my fuge. Another thought would be to install a rheostat to control pump speed, but I'm afraid that might damage the pump. :scared:
Coach makes a good point... what in the WORLD would you want with 2400 GPH in a fuge? That's so much water flow there is no way any of the good stuff like detrivoires woulod survive, they'd all get sucked out. Fuges should be calm with a very gentle steady flow... not more than a few hundred GPH at the very most.
Flow won't be 2400 gph in fuge. Flow is split between fuge and DT. Actually wanted total flow to go to DT originally but the mag overwhelmed my overflows on testing, so the only thing I could think to do was divert some flow back to fuge. I thought tumbling ogo would be a novel way to deal with the higher than desired flow in my fuge. Another thought would be to install a rheostat to control pump speed, but I'm afraid that might damage the pump. :scared:
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by Tankyou
Another thought would be to install a rheostat to control pump speed, but I'm afraid that might damage the pump. :scared:
Replace the word "might" with the phrase "almost definitely" and you'll have your answer.
Pumps can't be speed controlled unless they are designed for it. Try to slow them down and you will likely cause them to overheat.
Another thought would be to install a rheostat to control pump speed, but I'm afraid that might damage the pump. :scared:
Replace the word "might" with the phrase "almost definitely" and you'll have your answer.
Pumps can't be speed controlled unless they are designed for it. Try to slow them down and you will likely cause them to overheat.