Tips on Upgrading! 55g to 180g!!!

rort

Member
So I am going to be purchasing a 180g tank this week and will be upgrading from 55g. here are the specs
Old DT
- 30lbs LR
- 20lbs LS
- Not many fish (2 percs, 2 firefish, some inverts, and a red Coris)
New Custom Acrylic DT
- 200lbs LS
- 40g Sump (with protein skimmer)
- PVC connectors
- Stand and Canopy
So how do I make this switch as peaceful as possible?
Anything and everything can help!
Thanks
 

xtreeme

Member
Use some of the old sand, water and filter to cycle. Im moving from a 55g to a 125. I got a hippo tang so now I have to heh.
 

m0nk

Active Member
Personally, I went a slower approach when making the exact same transition in February. When I setup the 55g initially I put it in a place that it wouldn't be in the way to upgrade to another tank in the exact spot where I wanted it. So, I kept the 55g running as is, setup the 180g with 210lbs of sand, 150lbs of rock (100lbs base, 50lbs LR), and cycled it. Once the cycle was done, then I moved everything from the 55g into it. The reason I did this was that there is so much more surface area in the 180g that would have had no bacteria built up, there was so much more sand and rock that needed cured or to build up bacteria, and I didn't want to risk loosing any of my coral, fish, or inverts in the process.
And just fyi, using water from a cycled tank isn't going to help at all because there's no bacteria build up in just water, so basically you'd be adding in dirty water with no real benefit.

Best of luck!
 

xtreeme

Member
Your are prob right not enough in water to do anything helpfull. Dont use the old water.
My old tank is in diff spot then new 125 will so I hadnt thought about OP having to move old. Good point.
filter medium cup or so sand will add bacteria. The tank will still cycle. You will need keep the 55 running. No way to just move them same day.
 

rort

Member
I wasnt expecting to do anything very fast.
My plan is:
- Paint the back black
- drill holes for better water return
- drain water from 55g and move so I can get the 180 in place.
- Cycle 180 with 200lbs of LS provided while continuing to use 55g (unfortunately do not have the money to put LR in at this time but will be shortly)
- Once cycled slowly move over LR, Fish, and Inverts.
Does that sound like a good plan?
 

m0nk

Active Member
Originally Posted by rort
http:///forum/post/2704305
I wasnt expecting to do anything very fast.
My plan is:
- Paint the back black
- drill holes for better water return
- drain water from 55g and move so I can get the 180 in place.
- Cycle 180 with 200lbs of LS provided while continuing to use 55g (unfortunately do not have the money to put LR in at this time but will be shortly)
- Once cycled slowly move over LR, Fish, and Inverts.
Does that sound like a good plan?
It'll do, but you won't have nearly enough LR in the 180 to do any adequate job of filtration. My suggestion is to put in at least 100lbs of base rock (roughly $45-50 per 50lb box, if you can find it, or order online). After you cycle, it'll have some bacteria growing on it, and it'll be seeded by your existing live rock after moving that into the 180g, eventually making the base rock live as well.
Edit: also, you can't just cycle with live sand, you need some organic matter breakdown to start the process so you should use the raw cocktail shrimp method. Basically toss in a cocktail shrimp until you see your ammonia spike to around .5 - 1.0 ppm, then remove it and let the cycle take it's course (testing all the way tho).
 

rort

Member
It looks like the 180 wont be happening due to seller-complications...
But I am still getting a new tank that is 150g with canopy and stand, and sump.
The pipes and tubing is included with sump...
but no water pump included. What would you recommend for a 150g DT with a 90g sump.
I was told to look at the little giants but am completely lost on where to find information about what would work.
-I have a Protein Skimmer that will work.
-I also have 2 Koralia 2's that I plan to help with flow
-Also plan to create a PVC backing to move water behind LR
What would be a good pump to provide sufficient water flow for all of this?
thanks
 

googz

New Member
Could i upgrade a 72 gallon to a 110 without cycling? I want to upgrade my fowlr tank but i dont have room for another tank. Filter and skimmer which have been running for 6 months are rated for a 150. What are my options?
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Man, sounds like a lot of people are upgrading!
I just did mine a couple months ago: went from a 55 gallon to a 110 gallon reef ready. I had to put the new tank in the exact same spot as the old one, so there were a few logistical problems to overcome. But I managed to do it without starting a new cycle:
Instead of buying a lot more live rock, I went with just a little "new" live rock and the rest dry tufa rock. The base rock would seed into live rock later down the road, but this way I was able to build pre-hung rock towers that were almost completely ready to go in the tank when the final transfer was done.
When the big weekend happened, I drained the 55 into a couple rubbermaid containers, put the HOB filter on one of the tubs and the fish into that tub. The live rock went into the second tub with a couple cheapie powerheads. Then the 55, with the live sand still in it, was moved a few feet away and the 110 put in its place. The Tufa/live rock stands were put in place in the new tank. The sand was transferred to the new tank and mixed evenly with new sand to make up the difference. By the way, I did not have a deep sand bed, or this would have otherwise caused a spike! Sand bed in the 55 was an inch, new sand bed is 1.5 inches to 2.
Once this was done, the tank was filled with a combination of new saltwater and seasoned saltwater form the old tank. I let the system run for 2 days, watching the chemistry, before introducing the fish. Never saw a single spike in amm, trite, or trate when I did this. The tufa rock has since seeded with bacteria and algae, and is well on its way to getting a good coating of corraline. When I look at the tank at night with a red light (and who doesnt?) I see plenty of amphipods crawling around on the tufa. Not as much as on the LR, but I can tell that colonization is in progress.
I hope this gives you an idea of what's in store for you. It's not hard, but it's not exactly a quick project, either. By the way, I have one tip that I wish I had done: If you have access to a vaccum chamber (not common, I know, but any vaccum device that you can jury-rig will help) you might consider pre-soaking the dry tufa rock. Tufa is EXTREMELY porous, and the air that will be trapped deep in the rock is going to take forever to be absorbed and removed. I would recommend putting the tufa in a container with some used salt water, then remove the air from the vacuum chamber to draw out at least some of the trapped gas deep in the rock...this will in effect "suck" the water into the rock. I know not a lot of people have access to vacuum chambers, but you might find something that works. My other hobby is modelmaking, and I use one for moldmaking and casting.
 
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