To All of You Sump Builders.

adurost

adurost

Member
Originally Posted by fender
http:///forum/post/3122682
If you have room and the layout of your sump works, sure. Perhaps the area where the rubble rock is. Add some macro algae, a light, more rubble and voila, a refugium.
What kind of a light? Just a clip-on incandescent or does it need to be something more intense? In all the sump builds I've seen the return pump is in a separate chamber... Is this because most have a refugium with a DSB, or is it something you need to keep the macro algae contained and out of the pump? This is my sump; I'm guessing that I can't add a baffle while there is water in the tank, so what about moving the acrylic box more to the middle and using that as the divider?
 
fender

fender

Active Member
Usually the return pump is in a separate area to minimize things getting caught in it, algae, etc. Also to keep the area small so if the over flow quits, breaks siphon, gets blocked by a snail, etc. there is a limited amount of water that can be pumped into the DT and overflow. Another baffle would also help control bubbles.
An acrylic box to put the pump in would work if done properly.
A small CF lamp in the 6500 range (walmart) would be a good light - the clip on are ok but beware if having it fall.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Ok this is me and remember I am crazy. Are you building a sump or a sump/refug? My friend Henry will love this. What do you want to accomplish with your build?
 
adurost

adurost

Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3122716
Ok this is me and remember I am crazy. Are you building a sump or a sump/refug? My friend Henry will love this. What do you want to accomplish with your build?
Joe - is your ? for the OP or me? The pic above is my sump currently in operation. I am having nitrate issues (you've chatted w/Beth on my YT w/HLLE thread) and I trying to figure out a way to lower them on a permanent basis. Should I start a new thread and illicit Henry's (Spanko?) advice?
 
J

jetskiking

Guest
Ok having built a few sumps myself I have some sudgestions. Acrylic can be bought at any of the big box hardware stores. You can cut it with a table saw using a finishing blade. Make sure the glass is clean and the edge of the acrylic is roughed. Silicone both sides of the baffle when possible. home depot dosn't cut glass or acrylic anymore (liability thing) lowes still does. use a seperate chamber for your pump becuase this will keep levels consistant in your other chambers for your skimmer and fuge.
As far as flow goes on a 75 I would use a mag 7 or 9. There is no need to have more flow than what your fuge or skimmer can handle. Remember that contact time is important for a fuge. You can use a larger pump and dial it back some. Actually some pumps will be more efficient with some backpressure but head height is usually sufficient. The problem I have had with using valves on mag pumps is they like to shear tabs off the impeller when there is to much backpressure on startup. Its not so much of the pump wearing out.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by adurost
http:///forum/post/3122726
Joe - is your ? for the OP or me? The pic above is my sump currently in operation. I am having nitrate issues (you've chatted w/Beth on my YT w/HLLE thread) and I trying to figure out a way to lower them on a permanent basis. Should I start a new thread and illicit Henry's (Spanko?) advice?
yes
 
king_neptune

king_neptune

Active Member
Originally Posted by adurost
http:///forum/post/3122633
I've seen a lot of suggestions to do this lately... Won't you wear out the pump faster by reducing the outflow with a ball valve on a continual basis?
I thought so, but even the manufacturer says you can do it.
So the answer would be no.
 
king_neptune

king_neptune

Active Member
your still going to be choking the pump one way or another, but now you made it harder to determine the amount or back pressure your letting bleed off.
Ive been running mine at about %70 for almost 2 months, no hitch. Ill let you know in 2 years if I out lived the warranty or not. Chances are I will, because im not the first to do it this way.
 
spanko

spanko

Active Member
Here is an example of a way to build your sump into a combination sumprefugium.

However my understanding is that you a a 90gallon FOWLR with nitrates running in the 40 to 80 range.
Some questions first on my mind are,
1. What have you tried so far to lower them?
2. Why are they at that level (which I understand may not be all that bad for a FOWLR tank)?
3. What is your current filtration - biological - mechanical - chemical?
4. What does the fish population consist of?
5. What and how often are you feeding these critters?
6. What does your clean up crew consist of?
7. I did not see a skimmer on your picture of your existing sump, do you have one hanging on the tank?
7. What is your cleaning schedule (including the bioballs, filter mediums, etc. etc.) and water change schedule?
I ask these questions so that we all can get a better understanding of what you are dealing with and to give you some options on how to control your nitrates possibly without additional work to your sump.
 
mkroher

mkroher

Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/3123049
your still going to be choking the pump one way or another, but now you made it harder to determine the amount or back pressure your letting bleed off.
Ive been running mine at about %70 for almost 2 months, no hitch. Ill let you know in 2 years if I out lived the warranty or not. Chances are I will, because im not the first to do it this way.
Well, if I spend $200 on a pump, I want it to last more than 2 years. If you throttle back the pump with no pressure relief, you are making the pump work harder.
I hope you saved your receipt.
 
J

jetskiking

Guest
Originally Posted by mkroher
http:///forum/post/3123367
Well, if I spend $200 on a pump, I want it to last more than 2 years. If you throttle back the pump with no pressure relief, you are making the pump work harder.
I hope you saved your receipt.
That is not necessarily true. As I stated above some pumps actually operate more efficiently with back pressure. Don't know why but you can research it if you like.
 
king_neptune

king_neptune

Active Member
Originally Posted by mkroher
http:///forum/post/3123367
I hope you saved your receipt.

it be long gone

Ill find out one way or another. It was a $110 pump so I wont fall apart if it does. But according to the manual, I can use a valve to control flow. They included diagrams and all, on how to install one properly.
So if its good enough for the people who built it...Ill take my risks.
Believe me, Ill be the first one to let everyone know if it does go out one day.
 
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