To drill or not to drill?

florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill#post_3355114
Ok Shawn, how would you drill the hole, do the overflow, do the plumbing to the sump and for the return. I know you advise using spa flex tubing. Can you hook this up to a valve easily. Also can you give me a list of supplies for the diy drilling and overflow box. The only thing I really have that I know I need is a drill.lol

http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/diy-drilling-125-gallon-glass-aquarium-install-skimmer-box/54cc8c726c7fca0bd2fc54cc8c726c7fca0bd2fc-312791991101?q=drilling%20a%20glass%20aquarium
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill#post_3355114
Ok Shawn, how would you drill the hole, do the overflow, do the plumbing to the sump and for the return. I know you advise using spa flex tubing. Can you hook this up to a valve easily. Also can you give me a list of supplies for the diy drilling and overflow box. The only thing I really have that I know I need is a drill.lol

Holes are easy to drill.....My only question is do you have access to a dremel or Rotozip. Using the bits that most of us use won't work in a drill....It just doesn't have the RPMs to run the bits I'm suggesting. As far as putting a valve in line with the use of Spa Flex tubing it's simple as well. There is a special glue you use to work with Spa Flex. If you use regular PVC glue you don't get the correct bond. With the use of Spa Flex you can utilize any PVC fittings with it; so with that being said you could use PVC fittings that can be glued in place and you could then use threaded fittings to screw into the fittings you glued onto the Spa Flex hose.
 
gcgrad

gcgrad

Member
Quote:
Holes are easy to drill.....My only question is do you have access to a dremel or Rotozip. Using the bits that most of us use won't work in a drill....It just doesn't have the RPMs to run the bits I'm suggesting. As far as putting a valve in line with the use of Spa Flex tubing it's simple as well. There is a special glue you use to work with Spa Flex. If you use regular PVC glue you don't get the correct bond. With the use of Spa Flex you can utilize any PVC fittings with it; so with that being said you could use PVC fittings that can be glued in place and you could then use threaded fittings to screw into the fittings you glued onto the Spa Flex hose.
I actually do have a dremel and rotary saw. And I think I understand you on the pvc and spa flex tubing.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
The dremel worked out just fine for me. For the Spa Flex pipe you don't want to use regular pvc glue. It has no flexibility and will leak over time. You'll want to get this stuff call Christies Red Hot Blue Glue. Or get Weld On 747...it's designed for use on rigid or flexible pvc pipe.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Not sure that the spa flex was designed to be used with barbed fittings but I'm sure they could work if you clamp them down good. You're creating a good deal more friction in the line when you use those fittings...kind of goes against why I would use spa flex in the first place but that's a matter of personal choice I suppose. Don't see why it couldn't work though.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Corey I wasn't saying to use the barb fittings directly on the SpaFlex. What I was trying to get at was you would use a standard PVC fitting that would accept the threaded en of a barb fitting. The PVC fitting would/could be glued on the line and the barbed fitting threaded into the PVC and so on. I personally prefer not to use barb fittings, but at times it can be easier to add valves and such in place this way if needed.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill/20#post_3356253
Corey I wasn't saying to use the barb fittings directly on the SpaFlex. What I was trying to get at was you would use a standard PVC fitting that would accept the threaded en of a barb fitting. The PVC fitting would/could be glued on the line and the barbed fitting threaded into the PVC and so on. I personally prefer not to use barb fittings, but at times it can be easier to add valves and such in place this way if needed.
Yep, I know what you're saying. I would do the same thing. Glue the spa flex to a slip x thread coupling and thread the coupling to the valve. That way it can be dissasembled when need be.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Yep!!!! I wish they had a record feature on here. That way you could talk instead of trying to type to relay what your trying to say!!!!!:laughing:
 
gcgrad

gcgrad

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill/20#post_3356261
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill/20#post_3356253
Corey I wasn't saying to use the barb fittings directly on the SpaFlex. What I was trying to get at was you would use a standard PVC fitting that would accept the threaded en of a barb fitting. The PVC fitting would/could be glued on the line and the barbed fitting threaded into the PVC and so on. I personally prefer not to use barb fittings, but at times it can be easier to add valves and such in place this way if needed.
Yep, I know what you're saying. I would do the same thing. Glue the spa flex to a slip x thread coupling and thread the coupling to the valve. That way it can be dissasembled when need be.
I understand now. I can run spa flex to the slip x thread coupling into the valve, then run another slip x thread after the valve into the spa flex and so forth.
And I did check out the link Joe. Starting the drilling with a drillbit looks pretty scary though. I've just never done anything like it before so its extremely intimidating.
 
F

fishhugger

Guest
I JUST drilled my 55 gallon tank, I was pretty nervous.....and it turned out to be incredibly easy. I had my brother poor water over it as I went. Just start at a good angle and hold steady so your not bouncing around, as you get your groove going, turn the drill upright and the rest is just patience. You probably don't have to (you probably should, but I dont want to say you HAVE to if its not really necessary), but I stopped every minute or so to inspect my progress and make sure the bit doesn't get too hot.
I spent $8 on a bit from the big auction site, and you can buy a bulkhead off of any reef supply site that sells in bulk quantities ;) The bulkheads specs will tell you what size hole saw you need.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Quote:
And I did check out the link Joe. Starting the drilling with a drillbit looks pretty scary though.
Large diameter hole saws come incorporated with a pilot hole drill, by using just the pilot hole bit you prevent the large diameter hole saw from walking as you drill as opposed to drilling the pilot hole and large diameter hole all at once
And remember and I say this will all due respect but I have seen to many people do this in the wrong sequence. The gasket MUST be placed between the fixed lip of the bulkhead and the inside wall of the aquarium.
 
gcgrad

gcgrad

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383047/to-drill-or-not-to-drill/20#post_3356496
Quote:
And I did check out the link Joe. Starting the drilling with a drillbit looks pretty scary though.
Large diameter hole saws come incorporated with a pilot hole drill, by using just the pilot hole bit you prevent the large diameter hole saw from walking as you drill as opposed to drilling the pilot hole and large diameter hole all at once
And remember and I say this will all due respect but I have seen to many people do this in the wrong sequence. The gasket MUST be placed between the fixed lip of the bulkhead and the inside wall of the aquarium.
Thanks for all the advice Joe! For a 55 gallon DT and 29 gallon sump/fuge, what size hole would you recommend drilling? I have a mag 5 pump which will be use at about 4 ft headspace (310 gph). I was advised to use 1" plumbing as well.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
the whole is predicated on the bulk head size for a 1inch bulkhead fitting you will need to drill a 1 3/4 inch hole
 
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