too much live rock break a tank???
- Thread starter mujtba
- Start date
ratpack
Member
what???? 100pound do you have a pic of your tank. i dont now, but i really dont thing it gonna break the tank. but what i know is that a good reef tank should have at least 1 pound of LR per gallon.
.....im not even close to q pound per gallon.
would you donate some LR to the special cause of my tank:cheer: since you have enough
shawnhardy
Member
Water weighs over 8 pounds per gallon so a 55 gallon tank when full weighs close to 450 pounds. The rock takes up volume so you will have less than 55 gallons when you add rock. I think net net, you are not adding that much weight.
pilotaj
New Member
The tank is 55 gal I have about 10 lbs of LR and 30 lbs of base rock. The tank is set up with duel Penguin 550 submersible power heads filter about 150 gal/hr. Whisper heater 140watts. Running Coralife 50/50 for the lighting. When I set up the tank last week, I used "used" crushed coral base. I guess they called it cultured or something. It made it as if it were a tank that has been runnign for a while. The water came from a tap. Soft water. Dropped Stress coat in the water and clear coat on the sides of the tank.
There are 5 fish in there now, 3 damsels and 1 clown and a royal gramma. When should i add some bottom feeders? Can you guys help?? Thanks
Hope that helps.
There are 5 fish in there now, 3 damsels and 1 clown and a royal gramma. When should i add some bottom feeders? Can you guys help?? Thanks
Hope that helps.
mujtba
Member
what is corallife 50/50? is that a canopy with lights? I was told no one should use tap water. Also, no one should add fish till the cycle completes. Have you had problems with the fish? are all the fish swimming fine and eating normally or are they always hiding and looking scared?
See I want to use stress coat or bio safe, but everywhere people say to get RO/DI water only. I dont understand why bio safe would claim to be for marine aquariums if the only way is using RO/DI water?? Any ideas? It cannot be for the money, because thats a law suit waiting to happen. So it has to work. Im assuming no one tried it because everyone seems to direct people to RO/DI water. But buy water seems to be a bit steep. Especially with the frequent water changes.
Is your dual penguin filters, the hang on back filter?
See I want to use stress coat or bio safe, but everywhere people say to get RO/DI water only. I dont understand why bio safe would claim to be for marine aquariums if the only way is using RO/DI water?? Any ideas? It cannot be for the money, because thats a law suit waiting to happen. So it has to work. Im assuming no one tried it because everyone seems to direct people to RO/DI water. But buy water seems to be a bit steep. Especially with the frequent water changes.
Is your dual penguin filters, the hang on back filter?
ssmariner9
Member
The entire question of tap vs. RO/DI has been greatly debated among many on this site. Basically, it's better for the LONG RUN to use the absolute purest water you can get, RO/DI. Yes, tap water may be ok, just depends on what is in your water. The most important thing is to get rid of all chlorine and chloramine, as they are toxic to fish. Stress coat will do that. The Ro/DI water also is free of nitrates, trace metals, ets. These things can cause big headaches down the line, especially in a reef tank.
pilotaj
New Member
Mujtba-
corallife 50/50 are floresent light tubing. Just go in the tank covers.
Our tap water is very well filtered. Have not had any problems. Just use the water conditioners. Hard to justify buying water when you can just treat the stuff coming out of the sink!!!
The dual Penguin filters sit on top of the tubes coming from the undergravel filters. They just suction cup to the inside of the tank so they don't move. Per the LFS this was a very recomended way to go with a bio filter.
So far all the fish are doing great. Since I used the cultured coral the amoina spike came a week early. Just added Bio-Spira Marine. Should take care of the the problem pretty fast.
corallife 50/50 are floresent light tubing. Just go in the tank covers.
Our tap water is very well filtered. Have not had any problems. Just use the water conditioners. Hard to justify buying water when you can just treat the stuff coming out of the sink!!!
The dual Penguin filters sit on top of the tubes coming from the undergravel filters. They just suction cup to the inside of the tank so they don't move. Per the LFS this was a very recomended way to go with a bio filter.
So far all the fish are doing great. Since I used the cultured coral the amoina spike came a week early. Just added Bio-Spira Marine. Should take care of the the problem pretty fast.
mujtba
Member
RO/DI (Reverse osmosis, followed by deionisation, type of water purification) is filtered water. They do sell the filters you can buy and use at home. I dont know how much or how easy it is to use. Distilled water is .58 at walmart per gallon. RO/DI water at my LFS is .50 per gallon. So I don't know if I should buy it the first time and then use conditioner for tap water for my water changes later. I have yet to see someone say they used tap water. Let me know if you see anyone saying that.
pilotaj
New Member
When I was at LFS buying all the stuff to set up my tank. Increadable how fast all this stuff adds up. They told me that using tap water would not be a problem. I had asked. Our water goes through a filter that takes out most of all the metals in the water. They just told me to dump in teh tank strarters and conditioners.
latino277
Member
this is my take on tap water.
when I had my 125g setup as an agressive tank I use tap water and conditioner. at 1st everything was fine. but 9 months down the road I started to see problems come up like
high nitrates, phosphates
I also had a very small trace of cooper.
the bottom line is that if you use tap water the impurities just continue to add up. the point of doing water changes is to... get ride of the extra impurities. you can't do this if the water your using to replace is bad. Am I making any sence??
when I had my 125g setup as an agressive tank I use tap water and conditioner. at 1st everything was fine. but 9 months down the road I started to see problems come up like
high nitrates, phosphates
I also had a very small trace of cooper.
the bottom line is that if you use tap water the impurities just continue to add up. the point of doing water changes is to... get ride of the extra impurities. you can't do this if the water your using to replace is bad. Am I making any sence??
mujtba
Member
latino-
thats true. But this is why those 'BIG' companies make those chemicals to remove these different toxics from the tap water to make it safe for fish. Almost all water conditioners say detoxifier, remove metals, chhlorine, etc from tap water. Used for fresh or salt water fishtanks. I just don't understand how their still in business if everyone recommends RO/DI water. And isn't that a bit expensive? Especially with such frequent water changes? how can tap water make your tank get high nitrates? you might have had too many fish or didnt do enough water changes.
In science today, we can clone a pig, go to mars, or build a station on the moon. You are telling me we cannot find chemicals to add into tap water to obliterate the toxic in it?
thats true. But this is why those 'BIG' companies make those chemicals to remove these different toxics from the tap water to make it safe for fish. Almost all water conditioners say detoxifier, remove metals, chhlorine, etc from tap water. Used for fresh or salt water fishtanks. I just don't understand how their still in business if everyone recommends RO/DI water. And isn't that a bit expensive? Especially with such frequent water changes? how can tap water make your tank get high nitrates? you might have had too many fish or didnt do enough water changes.
In science today, we can clone a pig, go to mars, or build a station on the moon. You are telling me we cannot find chemicals to add into tap water to obliterate the toxic in it?