J
jrthomas40
Guest
wow that is a really awesome set up
Too scared to start.
- Thread starter widowmaker
- Start date
widowmaker
Member
i didn't catch what rr meant, but it's not a hob overflow. they are built into the back wall of the tank. there are 2 "bump in" on the back wall, inside the tank. there is one socket 'y' at the top of each overflow area, just below the slots. i have a hose bibb coming of the left wall, also the room has it's own breaker box on that side as well. you can also know that the electronic devices are set to that side too, so putting the sump there might cause a problem with crowding, but it could work. i'm not opposed to the fuge & sump, but with space running out and the fuge having to be another big purchase, i'd have to "ponder the ways". i also have a 50 plastic container to put in there somewhere, for the auto top off, unless i bypass that, and come directly from the ri/do.
turningtim
Active Member
RR= Reef Ready which is what you have. The issue is that the sump will have to be below the tank in order to use gravity for draining. Where are you planning on putting it? Right behind the tank on the floor? what is the distance from the bottom of the tank and the floor? How big are the drains/returns in the OF's 1"?
tree
Member
cool setup
Is that a TV over the tank? If so you might want to make sure that wall above the tank and behind the TV is sealed really well. Don't want the humidity getting to the TV.
rr=reef ready
I would opt for the RO/DI in the room. You'll still want a container there to mix up salt water for water changes though.
A fuge doesn't have to be expensive. You can use rubbermaid containers or an inexpensive tank. It will be more plumbing and maybe another pump depending on how you decide to set it up. There's a DIY plumbing thread on this forum that is really good on the plumbing. https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/146156/squidd-teach-me-dyi-plumbing-101-on-a-sw-tank
If your sump is only 30 gallons, if you lose power will it be able to take the overflow from the DT? This may be another reason to add a fuge.
rr=reef ready
I would opt for the RO/DI in the room. You'll still want a container there to mix up salt water for water changes though.
A fuge doesn't have to be expensive. You can use rubbermaid containers or an inexpensive tank. It will be more plumbing and maybe another pump depending on how you decide to set it up. There's a DIY plumbing thread on this forum that is really good on the plumbing. https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/146156/squidd-teach-me-dyi-plumbing-101-on-a-sw-tank
If your sump is only 30 gallons, if you lose power will it be able to take the overflow from the DT? This may be another reason to add a fuge.
widowmaker
Member
tim
it's 2' from the bottom of the main tank, to the floor. about 1' or less to the top of the sump. drains are 1" and the returns are 3/4....all predrilled. was planning on putting it on the floor to one side or the other of the drain. i'd like to have room to come in and move around while working. i'm most concerned about the gravity feed. the pumps are pretty big and strong and can get it back to the tank no problem.
tree
yea.....i used marine sheetrock (greenboard) on the walls and even the ceiling, but i'm a little worried about the electronics being open in the rear and exposed to the humidity. i'm planning on protecting it somehow, later down the road, after i see how much is taking place. i have the typhoon III ro/di with the water hose attachment that i can run off the hose bibb i had stubbed in there, but i do like the idea of have a rubbermaid tub there, for top offs/water changes. i see know that my realstate is going fast. what a bummer, unless the fuge would work well stacked on the sump, and not be too high to pump the water down, then back up the returns.
it's 2' from the bottom of the main tank, to the floor. about 1' or less to the top of the sump. drains are 1" and the returns are 3/4....all predrilled. was planning on putting it on the floor to one side or the other of the drain. i'd like to have room to come in and move around while working. i'm most concerned about the gravity feed. the pumps are pretty big and strong and can get it back to the tank no problem.
tree
yea.....i used marine sheetrock (greenboard) on the walls and even the ceiling, but i'm a little worried about the electronics being open in the rear and exposed to the humidity. i'm planning on protecting it somehow, later down the road, after i see how much is taking place. i have the typhoon III ro/di with the water hose attachment that i can run off the hose bibb i had stubbed in there, but i do like the idea of have a rubbermaid tub there, for top offs/water changes. i see know that my realstate is going fast. what a bummer, unless the fuge would work well stacked on the sump, and not be too high to pump the water down, then back up the returns.
widowmaker
Member
started the plumbing run this weekend. ran into a little problem drilling holes in the tank bench. need another set of hands to hold up tank while i drill/sawsall it. either way, i'm guess i'm going to head in full steam until i run into another problem.
widowmaker
Member
hey tim,
there's no way to put the skimmer in the area where the balls are, but i have found a way to put it in the open chamber. my problem is that with the asm-4 i have, and the sedra 5000 pump, there are no instructions, and i cant even guess how to connect what to what. do you (or anybody) have a picture/digrahm of the skimmer process and connections.
thanks in advance, yet again.
there's no way to put the skimmer in the area where the balls are, but i have found a way to put it in the open chamber. my problem is that with the asm-4 i have, and the sedra 5000 pump, there are no instructions, and i cant even guess how to connect what to what. do you (or anybody) have a picture/digrahm of the skimmer process and connections.
thanks in advance, yet again.
widowmaker
Member
got the plumbing ran, need to figure out the skimmer set up, and the ro/di auto top off. then i'll be ready for water. after seeing if the system runs good, it will be cycle time.
smknsmly
New Member
Originally Posted by widowmaker
Also, anybody in the lower AL/GA/upper Fl tristate area, that would like a free meal at a great steakhouse, for say 8-10 hours of labor......get in touch with me for sure.....I can make that happen.
What type of help do you need? Steak sounds good.
Also, anybody in the lower AL/GA/upper Fl tristate area, that would like a free meal at a great steakhouse, for say 8-10 hours of labor......get in touch with me for sure.....I can make that happen.
What type of help do you need? Steak sounds good.
widowmaker
Member
oh.....yea, i was thinking about hook up help. but now, i got the plumbing ran and hooked up. i just need some guidance on the skimmer, and auto top off......which i'm close to getting figured out (auto top off i mean)
widowmaker
Member
also, i got the ro/di unit mounted and hooked up. i noticed that my typhoon III puts out 4 gal./hr. that's good i guess, for the top off scenerio, but what about the first time fill up of the tank. i mean, i don't want to wait the 60 hrs, it's going to take to produce the 240gal, needed to fill my tank, plus another 6+/- for the filer tank. there has to be another way to speed up the initial tank fill up, with good water. i've read posts mentioning different water types, but what's the general rule/idea, here?
thanks again to any that post.....
thanks again to any that post.....
ol'salty
Member
The only water (especially to start the tank) you should use is ro/di. If you can't take the waiting for it to fill up, then you could purchase ro/di water from a lfs, but i would just wait it out imo. By the way, you need to dump the first batch or so of ro/di water you make. Someone else could probably tell you exactly how much. Normally, you would run it a couple of hours (at your rate) down the drain to "clean out" the system.
widowmaker
Member
i think i will wait it out. another question i have is after i mix the water and salt in my rubbermaid container, with it airated and heated, and dump it into the main tank for filling, does it have to still be circulated and heated. i'm planning on running it several days through the total system after it's full, but throughout the days i'm filling and mixing on the rubbermaid container, the water in the main tank will just be sitting. is this ok?
widowmaker
Member
i thought about that. i've looked at several different ones. aside from the gph output, what are the stats to look for in powerheads. or at least, what are the favorites....