TOP 5-7 Tests needed for REEF TANK !!

weatherman

Member
I am trying to buy the test kits that I need to monitor the water in my coral, reef tank....150 gallons with several fish (tangs). BUT was concerned on which tests are probably the most important?
For example......Obviously, I would think that a Calcium test would be a little more important than an Iodine test...
But, anyway, IN YOUR OWN OPINION, please give me an idea on what YOU think the top 5-7 tests should be for a reef tank. This will help me out tremendously. Thanks....
 

chadman

Active Member
Originally Posted by TriGa22
Just about anything is good to test for. If there is a test kit for it there is a reason.
haha...yeah to make the owners of salifert wealthy
 

frankthetank

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefreak29
calcium,alkalinity,ph,magnesium,phosphates,nitrates
In 14 years I don't think I have ever tested for magnesium. Just on my behalf, I would substitute the magnesium for ammonia. I wouldn't own a tank without an ammonia test.
 

reefreak29

Active Member
Originally Posted by FranktheTank
In 14 years I don't think I have ever tested for magnesium. Just on my behalf, I would substitute the magnesium for ammonia. I wouldn't own a tank without an ammonia test.
lol i never tested for ammonia
 

chadman

Active Member
really you never tested for ammonia?!?! how did you ask questions on this site then?!?! the first thing everyone asks is ammonia nitrate levels...haha....
 

reefreak29

Active Member
Originally Posted by chadman
really you never tested for ammonia?!?! how did you ask questions on this site then?!?! the first thing everyone asks is ammonia nitrate levels...haha....
i never asked about the ammonia cycle, i work at a water treatment plant
 

teen

Active Member
i never tested for ammonia or nitrite, dont even own a test kit for them. i have a nitrate test kit, but i used it like once.
this is what i test for:
magnesium
alkalinity
calcium
p04-- pretty much a waste of money imo.
i dont see a reason for ownig an ammonia kit either. if something big dies, you may have a spike in ammonia, the only way to get it to zero is water changes. so if something dies, just do a water change or two.
magnesium on the other hand will be depleted at different rates depending on water change frequency and livestock. its hard to tell if you need to add magnesium or not if you dont have a test kit for it.
 

chadman

Active Member
wouldnt you rather test your water though so that you can see if your levels are rising so that you can prevent things from dying?
 

weatherman

Member
Do you need to test for Oxygen? Someone said earlier on this thread that if there is a test for it, THERE IS A REASON. I have never heard of anyone testing for OXYGEN for a salt water reef tank. What's with that?
Thanks.
 

reefreak29

Active Member
Originally Posted by weatherman
Do you need to test for Oxygen? Someone said earlier on this thread that if there is a test for it, THERE IS A REASON. I have never heard of anyone testing for OXYGEN for a salt water reef tank. What's with that?
Thanks.
 

weatherman

Member
I've heard of Oxygen tests, but they always confused me. What would you do IF the measure you took was low? Add another air pump? How about if it was to high? Get rid of a pump?
 

teen

Active Member
if your oxygen was too high, your pH would be too high.
if your oxygen was too low, your pH would be too low.
Originally Posted by chadman
wouldnt you rather test your water though so that you can see if your levels are rising so that you can prevent things from dying?
as long as something big doesnt die, you wont have any ammonia. theres no sense in testing for it if nothing died. you can have a small fish die in your tank and as lon as you have a decent size clean up crew that gets too it fast enough, id bet you wont have an ammonia spike.
 

jfcat

New Member
A lot of this depends on your live stock list and bioload.
If your tank is a FOWLR with shroom and soft corals then Ca isn't as important as is a heavily populated SPS tank.
The question shouldn't be what do you test for, but why do you test?
Ammonia - (0.0) Once the nitrogen cycle has established you should never see a spike in ammonia. Just make sure you pull out any big stuff that dies.
Nitrite - (0.0) same as ammonia
Nitrate - (<0.2 ppm) The end of the nitrogen cycle, unless you're running a plenum. Test this and when it rises increase water changes. If you can't keep it low, your tank is over it's max bioload. Either take some fish out or add a bigger refugium.
Calcium - (400 -500 ppm) Used by corals and coraline algae to build their skeletons.Not enough and they can't grow (or at least not well). To much and the pH becomes a problem.
Alkalinity (2.5 - 4 meq/L or 7 - 11 dKH) Acts with the calcium to set the pH. Also (I believe) aids in the uptake of the calcium by the animals / algae.
Salinity (35ppt or 1.026sg) - Suprised no one mentioned this, cause I know you all test for it.
Temperature (76 - 83` f) - This also depends on the livestock you're keeping, but for the majority of us it's tropical fish / inverts. Again, this is a test you all do frequently, yet no one mentions.
PH (7.8 - 8.5 [8.1 - 8.3 prefered]) - How alkaline or acidic the water is. (pure water is 7.0, above that is acid, below is alkaline). This will show you if the relationship between your calcium and alkalinity is off. Typically not needed if your other parameters are set corectly.
Magnesium (1250 - 1350 ppm) Alows the calicium and alkalinity to interact. Not enough and the alkalinity will not allow the calcium to precipitate, thus not allowing the animals to uptake it.
Phosphate (<0.03 ppm) - Algae (the bad kind) food. If you use RO water and good quality salt you shouldn't have any. Also, macro algae in the refugium uses it faster than other types keeping it in check. Unless you have algae problems don't bother. If you do, check you raw water (that you use for top off's and water changes) even if it's RO as this will show a bad filter. Check your salt water mix prior to use and this will show if you should maybe think of getting a different brand. As a side note, phosphates are used in soap, so be sure anything put in the tank (like your hands) are washed throughly and then RINSED WELL.
other items, silicia, iodine, strontium boron, iron are used sparcely by the animals and are generally kept in check by water changes. If your tank goes outside what is normally done in this hobby, then look into these. For example a very high stock rate of inverts may need iodine suppliments because they need it to molt. very high coral stock may need extra strontium (they use it in conjunction to builb their skeletons).
So, for me, the things I check are...
Salinity
Temperature
Magnesium
Calcium
Alkalinity
Nitrate (occasionally)
If the tank is having problems or I don't like what I see going on in therre I'll test other things. What I test depends on what I see.
 
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