unwanted growth

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xxchris060

Guest
I have been fighting this red algae for a year now.
here are my stats
cal 450
alk 3.0
sal. 1.027
ammonia 0
ph 8.1
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
i change the water every two weeks (5gal.) it is a 55gal tank i with 4 power heads and one rio 2500 in the sump. sometimes I can get it pulled out if i do it by hand but within two weeks it will come back. I have posted several times about this but have not gotten anywhere i am desprate. Everthing else in the tank is doing well. as for light the bulbs are 6mo old and i have 3 96 wat pcs I top off with disstilled water from walmart. Does anybody have this same problem or is this unique. What am i doing wrong. I can't figure it out. Please help. I am about ready to hire sombody to come in and take care of this problem.
Thanks Chris
 

spsfreak100

Active Member
The proper name for Red Slime is Cyano Bacteria (Even though "red slime" is documented in growing in many different color forms, including dark red, light red, black, etc.). Red Slime is not a true algae, hence Cyano bacteria.
Cyano Bacteria is commonly caused by a high phosphate level, high nutrient level, low oxygen level or high biological level. Elevated phosphates can easily trigger unwanted outbreaks of this bacteria. High nutrient levels in the water also play a role in the Bacteria growth. A low Flow rate also helps the bacteria spread very easily, without being blasted off the rocks and/or substrate. Cyanobacteria also has a very hard time staying alive in oxygen rich water with good flow. Cyano must reach anaerobic levels to live.
The best method of removel is to always use Reverse Osmosis (RO, or possibly RO/DI) water and possibly a phosphate sponge. This will eliminate any harmfull chemicals going into your water column and causing a problem. A phosphate test kit would really come in handy to see if your tank has phosphate.
More information on your tank setup should really help, esspecially your flow rate and tank demensions. Also, when did you start up the tank, when did the cyano bacteria start? Did you do any changes in anything prior to the outbreak?
Graham
 

steve40

Member
Try connecting an air tube to one of your power heads to oxygenate the water. Also do a search on here for the kind of algae they have and im sure they have some type of chemical you can add to eliminate it, i had some at one time or another.
 
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xxchris060

Guest
Well I turn over my water more than 60 times and hour thats on the low side. I also aready have phosgaurd running in my tank. I use di water. My tank size is 48l-18w-24h. 55g.
I just hooked up a air line to one of my power heads It is blowing alot of air i can turn it down. Should i let it blow full blast for a few days. I am going to get a phos test kit also.
 

aarone

Active Member
Try connecting an air tube to one of your power heads to oxygenate the water.
I would not do this, it is oging to at just like a protein skimmer in way, when i had the venturi tube on my PH, it lowered my salinty from the bubbles popping on the surface.
 

bioreefer

Member
you think thats slow I turn mine 7 times an hour 48x18x24 is not 55 gal your looking a 75 1.027 is a little high chris I never had a cyno problem
 

steve40

Member
Adding air tube
I see no way that it would lower your salinity but it would raise it from the water evaporating more quickly, I dont think there is any harm in doing it for a day or so. I have heard negatives for keeping it on for long periods of time.
 

aarone

Active Member
i was refferring over time. The way it lowers salinity IMO is from the small bubbles that form at the surface. They pop and shoot the salt and water all over the hood, or wall or whatever you have. Maybe it was just something else in my case, but i ran it for about 3 weeks, and battled salinty issues until i came here.
 
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xxchris060

Guest
well should i do this for a few days and see if it helps with my algae
 

racenrich

Member
Hate to burst your bubble, but that size tank is a 90 gallon.
Those are the same parameters as mine. (48x18x24=90)
48x18x21=75g.
48x12x21=55g.
I'm also having an outbreak of this algea or bateria type.
Im using RO/DI now and been told to do a few things:
1-less light time, i cut from 13hrs a day to 10hrs a day.
2-more flow, added another power head.
3-LESS FOOD, that is an important one, i fed 2x's a day, now 1.
4-Phosphate sponge, be careful with this one, if you dont remove the sponge within alotted time, you'll just introduce it back into you tank.
5-H20 changes-Im currently doing 10 gallons every 4 days.
I've just begun this, since my phosphates are off the chart.
I'll let you know in a month how it turns out.
Hope this will help.
 

chinnyr

Member

Originally posted by aarone
I would not do this, it is oging to at just like a protein skimmer in way, when i had the venturi tube on my PH, it lowered my salinty from the bubbles popping on the surface.

And,not to mention all the salt creep it will produce!I found that I will get tiny sparatic pop ups of cyno from time to time.It always pops up in a low flow area.I will move the rock,if possible,to a higher flow area.But,before I do that I will try to gently peel it off the rock to keep it from blowing off to take up refuge somewhere in the tank.Because more than likely it will end up in another low flow area to take hold again.I have also seen a tank completly covered with cyno and I know what you are talking about.There is also a local store here that seems to always have cyno in thier tanks.I don't know why because they look to have loads of circulation.:confused:
 

shep

Member
Question for you guys...Turning over tank in water? I have 125 with 4 1200, 4 600 and 3 400 maxijets and iwaki 1200 gph pump. So just how much am I turning my water over? Does it have anything to do with red slime...not really. Phosphates is number one cause.
However it's a bacteria and once you get it it's usually like a cold. You will spend lots of time getting rid of it. I have went through two battles with it in the past. The first took forever and the second was short and sweet more or less.
If this does not work don't kill me I am only telling you what worked in my two tanks that had it.
Step 1) do water changes everyday, about 10 percent
step 2) stir it up and let it go down overflow with sock on end of pipe to catch majority of it.
Step 3) cut feeding down to minimal for time necessary(3-4 days
Step 4)ask another person if this didnt work for you.
It worked for me but tanks do different things.
 

wrassecal

Active Member
You must, of course, find your source but I have to say that twice I have resorted to using Chemi Clean by Boyd Enterprises to get rid of cyano bacteria in my tanks. It has not hurt anything in my tank and is the only "product" I've ever resorted to using to help solve a problem. You must follow instructions and do a 20% water change 48 hours after the last dose ( you can use it up to twice).
 
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xxchris060

Guest
thanks will try that. will my fish be be ok for 3days and no food.
 
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xxchris060

Guest
well i just took out as much of it as i could and now i am going to leave the lights off for 3days and not feed them for 2.
 
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