Upgrading, NEED HELP!!

rook

Member
Hello all. This is my first post, although I have browsed for quite a long time.
I currently have a 29 gallon reef tank (yes I know it is small.) I have three 55 watt pcs = 5.67 watts per gallon, around 50 lbs of live rock and a ecosystems 40 for biological filtration. I also have a float switch hooked up to a reserve 5 gallon bucket for refill. I have a maxjet 1200 and two 900s for water movement hooked up to a wavemaster.
The tank is living but not thriving. I would like to upgrade or add anything that may be benificial. But, in about a year I plan on upgrading to either a 90 gallon or a 120 gallon tank. Therefore, anything I buy now, must be usable for either of those tanks when I upgrade.
I am considering purchasing an icecap 660 vho system, and use 24" vhos until I upgrade to a larger tank. This would give me 300watts or 10.35 watts per gallon!!!! Is that overkill? Should I just use maybe three vhos for the time being for 7.76 watts/gl??
Also, I am planning on installing this into a self-made hood. What will I need? Ballast, endcaps, fasteners! Anything else?
I am considering purchasing a chiller as well and found this one:
http://www.**************.com/produc...6&pCatId=8173.
It saids it works for up to 75 gallons, but I really don't need 10 degrees to cool.
Any thoughts?
Other possible purchases.
A protein skimmer. I have no idea which one. I don't want to over skim, or over spend. I have also heard people using mangroves instead of a skimmer.
A Ro unit. I was looking at the Maxima 24gpd, 4 stage unit.
And of course a calcium reactor. I found this one. Does anyone have any experiance with these.
http://www.myreefcreations.com/reactors.html
Thanks for any and all advice. If there is anything else that I seem to be forgeting please let me know. I have had this tank running for around two years, but I still don't quite have everything completely under control.
 

jumpfrog

Active Member
Welcome to the board!
Sounds as though your "upgrades" are primarily in the equipment arena. All good stuff but can never overcome other things which might keep you from thriving.
What are keeping in the way of inverts?
Are you currently using a skimmer?
Between the amount of LR you have and the Ecosystem your filtration should be great.
How many and what kind of fish?
Are you adding any calcium now? Kalkwasser/2 part?
What is your definition of thriving compared to what you have and want to achieve?
I know these are a lot of questions, but it seems that buying more equipment might not be the answer if other things are missing.
Again, welcome aboard!
 

rook

Member
What are keeping in the way of inverts?
astrea snails, blue legs, emerald crab, sand star, brittle star, cleaner shrimp, squasmosa clam, bubble anenome.
Are you currently using a skimmer?
NO, I have been avoiding using one. I have only been doing around a 33%-25% water change every three to four weeks or longer depending on how everything looks. I also use a phosphate sponge prior to a water change. I have a little green algee but nothing bad.
Between the amount of LR you have and the Ecosystem your filtration should be great.
Also about five inches of cruched coral. I would like to add some southdown sand, but I don't know if it is good to add at this point.
How many and what kind of fish?
Well here is my problem. I currently only have one maroon clown. A yellow jaw (the second one) jumped ship and died. And I had two blue chromis. One randomly died over christmas, and the other died within a week. I was told with those that if you are left with one, it will usually die.
Are you adding any calcium now? Kalkwasser/2 part?
I add a kent dkh buffer to the refill water, and each day I alternate adding kent CB parts A and B. I also add Kent M, magnesium about once or twice a month. Iodine when I remember and trace elements about one a month.
I am considering adding strontim and molybdenum, coral-vital, or kent phytoplex.
What is your definition of thriving compared to what you have and want to achieve?
currently most eveything is growning but not really jumping to life. Example, I have an acro near the top that has grown about 50% in 6 months, but the purple color is not great. I have a bubble that has never looked good since I got it about 6 months ago. It has good days and bad days but is still alive. It does look better now than it has. My clam has grown well, and I have xenia that has gone crazy. I have a capnelli that some days doesn't open, and others it is great. It has attemped to spawn twice but the spawns didn't survive.
I would like everything to just open up big and smile at you in the morning. I would also like to have better color on my sps and to be able to house a maxima clam.
Thanks again for the help
 

rook

Member

Originally posted by reef fool
ON the R/O, go with Spectra Pure. IMO top of the line equiptment


I have just looked at the spectra pure systems. Which would you recommend. 4 stage? I would like to just hook it up to the basement tub sink and have it fill a 30-50 gallon reserve tank, and then just go get water when I need it. Can I do that with the equipent provided, or will I need to get attachments?
 

reef fool

Active Member
I have the 25 gallon per day 4 stage unit. The 5 stage unit has an extra D/I cartridge. You Need to connect the incoming waterline(black line) to a hose ----. Get a large garbage pail (I bought the 44 gallon Rubbermaid Brute at Home Depot). Buy a float switch ($15-$20) and drill near the top of the pail for it. Install the blue line to the float switch. Then run the yellow line to the waste line for your sink. Aside from calibrating the unit as per the instructions, you just turn on the hose bib and check for leaks. If no leaks, just leave t alone to make water.
 

reef fool

Active Member
If you want a good little chiller for a 29 gal. try an Ice Probe Mini chiller by Coolworks. I used one on my 46 bow and it helped considerably. It will be of no use to you when you get a bigger tank though.
 

rook

Member
Thanks for the advice.
Do you like the 4 stage, or would you perfer the 5 stage?
I was currently thinking of just having a container like a trash bucket for now, like you said. But maybe something that is sealed. I know some R/O units have an automatic shut-off feature when the reserve tank gets full.
As for the chiller, the one I was looking at is a chiller/heater/temp monitor all-in-one. Of course you need a pump to run it. Even though it is rated for 75 gallons, I was hoping it would chill a 90 or 120 pretty well. I really don't have a terribly problem. Around 82-83 in the summer without the fan coolling it. The fan keeps it at 77-78 but causes a great deal of evap.
 

reef fool

Active Member
I thought the 4 stage was fine. With the water softener hooked up before the RO/DI, I didn't feel I need the extra DI. That unit didn't come with a shut off, as I said I bought a float switch that works fine.
 

rook

Member
Any other thoughts from anyone else???
Here are a few of the problems I am attempting to address.
1) Can't seem to keep the dkh/calcium levels up.
2) Need more light to keep more sps and clams
3) Considering either a skimmer or a mangrove tank to filter out toxins.
4) Temp reaches 83 in summer w/ac and a fan. Not sure if this is too bad, but also I don't like the amount of evap.
5) R/O really is a cost savings compared to purchasing from the store.
My water quality probably is not a good as desired. I seem to loose fish and inverts on a fair basis. Over the last year I lost inverts such as, sand star, some snails, some blue legs, an emerald, a cleaner. But I have a brittle star, a cleaner some snails and crabs, an anenome, a clam, that all seem to be doing great. I have a sand star that some days kind of lays limply hanging on to the glass.
Something is obviously just not quite right. Maybe the additives i am thinking of will help.
??????
 

reef fool

Active Member

Originally posted by Rook
Any other thoughts from anyone else???
Here are a few of the problems I am attempting to address.
1) Can't seem to keep the dkh/calcium levels up.
2) Need more light to keep more sps and clams
3) Considering either a skimmer or a mangrove tank to filter out toxins.
4) Temp reaches 83 in summer w/ac and a fan. Not sure if this is too bad, but also I don't like the amount of evap.
5) R/O really is a cost savings compared to purchasing from the store.
Something is obviously just not quite right. Maybe the additives i am thinking of will help.
??????


Rook,
Sounds like you're sick of my advice, but I am going to give you more anyway. Anyone else please jump in and correct me if necessary or just help this guy out.
(1) What are you using to raise your CA/ ALK levels? I use B-Ionic and I used to double dose both to get the levels up. They stayed constant with regular dosing after that.
(2)I don't keep any sps because my LFS won't sell me any until I get MH. I have 440 VHO now and it is not enough for SPS, so I am told . I am also told that they need the spectrum of light put out by MH.(SPS that is, not clams). Try a 175W MH. You can always use it on your new tank.
(3) I run an E.T.S.S super reef devil skimmer (way too big for a 29 gal) and a 20 gallon refugium w/ colerpa. On my 46 I used a Bak Pak 2R and a 10 gal fuge.
(4) Temp is very important to keep as constant as possible. I had the same problem with my 46 gal. I fried a bunch of snails an 2 starfish when my tank went up to 88 degrees one day. I am not sure if 83 is too bad. I know alot of reefers keep their tanks at 82. Including me. A 4-5 degree swing in temp from day to night is IMO, stressful on the fish/inverts.
(5) I figured at $1/gallon for fresh and $1.5/gal salt that my new r/o will pay for itself in 3-4 months. My r/o cost around $300 with all of the extras I listed in my previous post. That is figured for my 125 gal. tank.
Again, sorry if I sound like a now-it-all. I am not. I am just trying to help you out by giving you the info on what I have done and experienced.GOOD LUCK. And feel free to disagree everyone else.
 

rook

Member
I can never get tired of advice from anyone. The more the better. Please feel free to bombard me with as much as you can.
I have been adding super-dkh buffer to new r/o water that I use as a top off, and adding kentcb, parts a and b every other day. i think part of my problem is being consistant on the dosing amount and the frequency.
My LFS has a nice sps and clam tank with only VHO's, 880watts on a 120. I am thinking either 4 75s or 3 75s which would give me either just over 10 watts or 7.75 watts per gallon. I am not sure if I can get into a MH right now because i have a limited amount of room for equipment. I still need to build a hood as well, which may be a task in and of itself. I have a lifereef float switch controlling my top off system that sticks a foot out or the tank. Hopefull I can work around it.
I am also nervous about the tremendous heat with the MH. Also the PCS I have are in a enclosed light. I would either have to buy some other light to go with the MH (raising my costs) or rip apart the PC (rather not if I can avoid it.)
Skimmer; I would like to avoid it if I can. Right now, I have been told that I did not really need one with a 29 gallon and the filtration I have (50lbs lr/ eco 40). I have been considering setting up a mangrove tank next to my main tank and running it in-line with the eco 40. I am not sure what I need to accomplish that though. I was contemplating some kind of a saltwater atrium for the mangroves to be more visually pleasing since it will be in the open.
I was also considering one of the inexpensive skimmers for the time being. Like the $15-20 counter current models. Are these any good, or just junk? I have 0 nitrate, nitrites or ammonia. I am just needing to eliminate other known and unknown toxins that culminate in a tank, and reducing needed water changes.
At some point I am definately getting an R/O some day. Sooner the better, but other items are more important to maintain water quality. It is a hassel going 30 minutes to get to the LFS though, and expensive.
I really am curious if any one has used that chiller. It seems like a good idea, but I am not sure on its quality and craftsmanship. It sure would make life easier. I think, even though it is rated to bring a 75 gallon down 10 degree, it should bring a 120 down at least 5. That with a fan should do the trick, right?
I also have a problem with surface sludge. Since I have a hang-on eco 40 and no sump, my surface water does not get recycled or mixed and I get a brown sludge that I have to skim off by hand. Also I think I may get an oxygen shortage because of this too (bad surface to air contact.) I am not sure what to do about this. When i get the 120 with overflows, this will not be a problem.
Lastly (for this post) any time something does die, it always crawls into the back where I can not get it out. This is why I will never get a cuc. With all of the liverock and coral I have, there is no way to get to the back of the tank without taking stuff out which is too stressful on the enviroment.
Thanks again and keep the advice comming. discussing it helps me remember and consider problems I forget about.
 

rook

Member
Any other sage advice??
Not to be a thorn, but now I am really racking my brian trying to figure out the situation.
My chemicals seem good when ever I test them. Alway zero, or close thereto, nitrate, nitrite, amonia. DKH usually around 8/9 not great. Calcium usually around 350, again not great. Temp 76 - 80 throughout the day. This may be problematic. I have noticed many keep their tanks around 82?? Salinity around 1.023 - 1.025. I don't have tests for mag. molybd. stront. iodine. ect.
Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
Top