Urgent: Powerful Ich Medicine for Non-Reef Tanks?

orbulus

orbulus

New Member
Hi all...
I have an ich problem. I've read most of the posts about hypo salinity and such for reef tanks. But my tank is a fish only tank. I've used this generic copper treatment, which did not have any directions really. The directions said "Put one drop per gallon" and "repeat in 48 hours if necessary." However, it said nothing about how often I have to use it, when to change the water, what if it ich does not go away...
46 Gallon
Seaclone Skimmer
Wet/Dry Filter
UV Sterilizer (turned off)
1 Gramma
1 Percula
2 Firefish
1 Cardinal
At the moment, my parameters are all safe. Ammonia and Nitrites are all 0.
It's been two weeks so far and as I suspected, the ich cycle is not stopping and is getting worse. At first, it was only on the Royal Gramma. But now, it spread to my Percula and Firefish.
I took all carbon and other chemical filters out. I turned off my UV and only left the skimmer and wet/dry filter on.
I do not have a hospital tank, and it is too late to set one up. I want to nuke the entire tank. I have no inverts, and not planning to get any anytime soon.
This copper treatment is pissing me off. So I ordered online Marin stop Parasite. I do not know if it will get to me in time. But I need some feedback on how I can totally nuke the ich in my tank.
1. Will Stop Parasite work well?
2. How often do I put it into my tank (I am willing to do daily water changes if necessary).
3. I've lowered the salinity to 1.023. Should I lower it more?
I really need some help... I don't want my fish to die. I am so frustrated, I am almost in tears.
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
No one should put copper in their display tank no matter what type tank it is. For a FO tank, hyposalinity is ideal, causing no ill effects to the tank. There must not be LR or inverts in the tank, however.
If you have a refractometer, I would simply switch to hyposalinity. If you do a search for Stop Parasite. you should get some info on other hobbyists' exp with this med.
Take a look at the info on ich and hyposalinity in the FAQ Thread, if you haven't already.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
I have used stop parasite and it worked well. The directions are on the bottle, but here they are anyway. You add one teaspoon per 10 gallons of water twice daily for 5 days. It says on the bottle that you don't have to turn off your skimmer, but I did. You will also need an Alk kit. Stop Parasite can make your ph drop if it is not buffered properly. I have had success with this product however other people have not. As Beth stated though Hypo is the better way to go.
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
Thank you very much Beth and Sepulatian. I am doing a 20% water change every two days at the moment. I will cycle out the Copper from the tank.
I will try hyposalinity on my main tank in addition to the Stop Parasite. I will remove all Copper currently in my water before I start the treatment for Stop Parasite.
Thank you both for your help. I hope my fish lives T__T
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
I wouldn't use rid ich in a display in case he ever decides to get rock or inverts. Rid ich contains malechite green and formalin. It says right on the bottle that it is not safe for inverts. (as ich is an invert this makes sense) I use it in a qt, but never in the display.
 
lion_crazz

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
I wouldn't use rid ich in a display in case he ever decides to get rock or inverts. Rid ich contains malechite green and formulin. It says right on the bottle that it is not safe for inverts. (as ich is an invert this makes sense) I use it in a qt, but never in the display.
Yep, definitely.
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
Hi All,
Okay, I had gotten my Refractometer about a week ago. I've had my display tank down to 1.009 exactly through the course of 2 days. So it's been 6 days so far with the gravity at 1.009. Ammonia is still 0. My PH lowered a little, and I had to use a buffer. But now it is in the safe range. My Nitrite had a small spike though about 4 days ago. But, it lowered back to 0 the next day.
I had noticed that the day I made the water changes to lower the salinity, all the ich had fallen off of my fish. There was no sign of the ich for 6 days about. But this morning, both my Royal Gramma and Percula Clown are covered with them... even worse than before. I do not think my Gramma will make it. But how is this possible? I thought the lowered salinity would send the infant ich into shock before latching onto the fish? As far as my parameters are, everything is fine... except Nitrate is a little higher than normal, which cause a small brown algae bloom onto my glass.
I did receive my bottle of Marin's Stop Parasite, however chose not to use it when I started to hypo my tank.
Anyway... any suggestions? Maybe I am doing something wrong...
I still have my UV on since there is no meds in the water, and I still run my skimmer (and of course my wet/dry).
Should I just wait it out, and just keep doing what I am doing at the moment? Or should I start to use the Stop Ich?
I am still happy that my fish still have their appetite... but I don't know how much longer they can withstand the onslaught of ich.
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
...my Gramma died...
...the Clown should be next...
....parameters look normal, and still 1.009 gravity... :(
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
The refractometer I purchased was the Marine Depot one... It has ATC but I had made sure when I calibrate it, it is at room temp (about 67-68). The blue line is exactly at 1.010 and 1.009.. I test the salinity everyday, recalibrating the meter each time. The blue line falls on the same readings.
The clown looks better today. Most of the large adult ich had fallen off last night. His fins are ragged though... I assume it's from rubbing himself against the rocks. He's still eating though, and that makes me happy a little.
On a side note, my two firefish has never shown signs of ich, and are eatting and playing normally. It's odd. Are gobies that resistant to ich?
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Orb, salinity is measured 0.0 ppt and specific gravity is measured 1.00. If you are on target using the refractometer, then the salinity should be 14ppt [salinity] and 1.009 [specific gravity]. If you are reading the refract correctly, it can not be both 1.010 and 1.009.
If the line is 1.010, then that is not good enough, and that would account for the return of ich.
Post your reading exactly. Hold the refract up to a bright light so you can clearly determine where the line is.
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
On the left hand side of the refractometer gauge, is the gravity. I read that. And it changes... For example, I read it yesterday, and the line was exactly at 1.009. Then this morning, I recalibrated, and the line was at 1.010.
[ Edit ]
Should I lower the salinity even further past 1.009? Maybe 1.008 or 1.007? Or would my PH be too low then?
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Don't recalibrate. The refract does not need to be re-calibrated every time it is used. Recalibrate every month or so.
The SG needs to be at and stay at 1.009. Does that refract tell you salinity levels? One side should be SG, the other salinity.
 
orbulus

orbulus

New Member
Okay, I won't recalibrate.
Um... yes, the left is SG (gravity) and the right side is Salt. The PPT level is 13 (it's so small I can hardly see the line, but it doesn't look like it's 14 PPT. The gravity line is on 1.010 though. I am going to do a 20% water change tomorrow with 1.009 water to lower the salinity a little.
 
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