Verojeremy's DIY LED Thread

2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
32 per side is probably a little more than what you'll actually need. But seeing as how you're going to mount them close to the waters surface then I would keep the count similar to what you have in order to get good coverage and less spotlighting effect. Since you're gonna have the pwm controllor you can always set the max intensity to whatever you like.
You're gonna need wire to run back and forth from your driver to the leds. So unless they're gonna supply you with that also then I'd probably pick up a little extra. I don't really know what all comes with those kits now a days.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Just depends on where you plan to mount the drivers. If you're going to mount them to the heat sinks I'd get a few feet worth just in case. The stuff is cheap.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
OK ill get like 6 to be safe. Also how should I do the layout for the lights like each led where? I know you said each person does it their own way but I don't have any clue how to do it so it is effective.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
Another thing it gives me the option of how long the cables should be from led to led how long of wires should I get? 1.5" 3" 4.5" 6"
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
It sounds about right, actually.
You can get two AI fixtures for $800 and it would look better and be plug - and - play.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yeah that's about average. You could shave a few bucks off if you solder them yourself or go without the optics. I did a two panel build not long ago with 18 leads a piece that ran me close to $600 when it was all said and done. If it were me I'd lay the led colors out in rows of blue and white with the red and greens in the center.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
Actually Seth it wouldn't be that because I wouldn't have the red, or greens it would be $1080. So when you think about it I am saving a bit of money. Also when I upgrade them it would cost me less; like the people that have the AI Sol's can upgrade to a Vega for $300.
So I am almost definitely going to do a DIY led fixture.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
So now the parts list:
---------------------------------------------
5- Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable driver
1- DDC-01 PWM Controller
5- Driver Jumper
2- 3 prong power cord
5- Solderless LED Plug
2- Thermal Grease (5g)
10- Wire Connectors/Nuts
6- Bulk Wire (Black) 12'
28- Solderless CREE XP-E Blue LED Should I go royal blue?
28- Solderless CREE XP-G Neutral White LED
4- Solderless CREE XP-E Green LED
4- Solderless CREE XP-E Red LED
2- Drilled/tapped 6" x 20" Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink
2- splash guards
?-screws
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Missing anything?
Should I do optics?
Also how long should the wire be from led to led? It has to be either 1.5" or 3"or 4.5" or 6" You cannot mix them either.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
You won't need the optics in your situation. If you want to use them then I'd say that's your call. But I definitely wouldn't run any optics on the red/green leds. You're going to want those to spread out as much as possible to get good color blending. Otherwise you might end up with what some people call the disco effect.
If you plan to use only 4 reds and 4 greens I'd suggest using a smaller driver for those. Rapid sells an ELN 60-27P which is better suited for that specific combo that you have going. The main reason is because the reds use much less voltage than the whites, blues and greens. So as mentioned before that 8 count combo isn't going to work very well with the ELN 60-48's since that string won't light up until you reach right around 50% output from your dimming controller.
The power cords: I'd go with 3 of them. You can connect both white drivers to one cord, both blue drivers to another cord and then your red/green driver to a separate cord. I believe that daylight controller has 3 channels, no? That way you can control and adjust your whites, blues and the red/green string independently for maximum color balance/control.
I'd sit down with a piece of paper or something and sketch out a layout that you think you'll like. Once you come up with something that works for you then you can select the right length of wires to connect the leds. Off the top of my head I'm thinking I'd go with the 4.5" ones. But it really depends on your layout and the spacing between the leds.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
I'll go no optics I guess then
OK I will get the smaller one thank you for that.
I forgot to update the list before you said that I went over what I had and said wait wouldnt i need 3 of them, thank you for catching me though.
Since I am already getting a drilled and tapped heatsink I don't know how far apart they will be but I e-mailed them and asked.
OK time to draw.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
You might also want to ask what size screws you'll need. I think they drill and tap them for #4-40 screws but you may want to confirm that with them.
 
verojeremy

verojeremy

Member
Actually just remembered I am going to get the bigger driver becasue I am going to add the 4 UV's down the road when they come out with solderless ones so couldn't I just add 1 white and 1 blue to that driver?
 
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