very very new to saltwater

yearofthenick

Active Member
PART 1:
Okay, so here's an itemized list with a crash-course mixed in....
I agree with JerryAtrick, first thing you should do is get the tank cycled, then as you gather more info and learn more about fish and reef systems, you'd be ready to take the plunge.
Before you add anything to your tank, be sure you have the bare necessities as far as equipment goes. Right now because you're not adding any fish, you won't need any filtration just yet, so you're cool there...
The live rock needs to be kept at 76-82 degrees, and for a 39 gallon I would get a 150w heater. Any heater will do. Some people like to get the fancy ones, but every heater will wear out over time. Eheim is like the rolls royce of fish equipment but their heaters are actually pretty reasonable. Marineland makes good heaters too, and offers a lifetime warranty against defects.
Secondly, Get some water flow in there by purchasing two powerheads for each side of your tank. You should get something that can do 10-20x your tank volume in one hour. So for a 39 gallon, go for 390gph-780gph. Again, get at least two of them and put them on either side of your tank. Koralia's are very commonly used in the hobby, but anything will work. You can get the cheaper rio ones that stick to the bottom, but the suction cups never really stick well, and you're going to want to put your powerheads up high somewhere so you can direct them at your rock.
Once you get those two things.....
1. Fill tank with saltwater:
This could be anything. As JerryAtrick suggested, one option is by using Reverse Osmosis Water and adding a salt mixture. Personally, I'd pick the easiest route for you, which would be purchasing saltwater from your Local Fish Store (or "LFS" is what we like to call it). This is better because the salt is already mixed in and ready to go. Generally you can find both RO water and salt water at any LFS... they commonly sell both. Expect to pay in the ballpark of $0.39/gallon for RO water and $0.79 for mixed salt water. If you want to save a few pennies (it's really not saving you much money by the way), you can get the RO and mix the salt yourself, but because this is your first time, I'd prefer you make it as fool proof as possible.
Also, your tank's water will evaporate over time, and because the salt does not evaporate with the water, you will want to top off your tank with RO so your salt content doesn't get too high - make sense? That's also why LFS's commonly sell RO water as well... for you to top-off.
2. Add Live Rock
A great next step. People on the forums use words like "cured" and "uncured" because there is a difference. Live rock is actually live, meaning it's got the bacteria on it and the tank will need it to break down the detritus (fish poop and uneaten fish food). If your live rock is uncured, that means it has stuff on it that is dying or will die off (which is totally normal for uncured rock). It's actually great that stuff is dying off because that gives the bacteria on the rock a chance to eat and reproduce, getting strong enough to handle all kinds of detritus. However, this "cycle" is toxic to any live fish. There's a huge debate about that but we'll save it for later.
Anyway, you want to ask your LFS if the rock they have for sale is cured or not. Also, ask them what they consider to be "cured" live rock. Some LFS's (the really bad ones) just throw freshly shipped rock in their tanks and tell you it's cured, but because there's still all kinds of crap on the rock that is dying off because it was shipped, it will kill all your livestock in your tank if you put it in - so be careful of that if you plan to add live rock in the future and have fish or whatever livestock you have.
As for RIGHT NOW, because your tank needs to cycle, you can get whatever live rock you want. As for pricing, I've seen live rock as cheap as $3.99/lb uncured, all the way up to $9.99/lb for fiji quality cured. Also, it's good to check your local classified ad's because sometimes you'll find people getting out of the hobby and will sell you all their live rock for like $40. I had a guy on craigslist selling 300lb's of live rock at $1/lb!!! That's a great deal!
Be right back with more....
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2745841
Nope. Thet have spigots at the pier. It's part of the Oceanographic Institute.
From the Birch Aquarium website.
How can I get seawater for my aquarium/business?
The seawater tap at the base of the Scripps Pier is open to the public 24 hours a day. The water is sent through sand filters to remove the larger particles. This is the same seawater used by aquarists at the Birch Aquarium at Scripps. The Scripps Pier is located at the end of Discovery Way. Take La Jolla Shores Drive to the Naga Way entrance; turn west onto Naga Way; at the split, turn left to continue on Naga Way; at the stop sign, turn right onto Discovery Way; the pier will be directly in front of you and the tap is to the left of the pier entrance. If you have further questions about the seawater tap, please e-mail the aquarists at Birch Aquarium at Scripps: aquariuminfo@ucsd.edu.
Wow that's awesome!
Oceanside is nearly next door to Dana Point, which is where I'll be moving hopefully in the next few weeks. Awesome!
 

socal57che

Active Member
Originally Posted by YearOfTheNick
http:///forum/post/2745850
Wow that's awesome!
Oceanside is nearly next door to Dana Point, which is where I'll be moving hopefully in the next few weeks. Awesome!
Dana Point a good hour from the pier in La Jolla (if traffic is good) so you may need a truck with 55 gal drums to make it worth your while.
Let me know when you get here so we can set up some frag swaps.
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
So once you get your live rock cured, I would start thinking about filtration:
Mechanical Filtration: this is the kind of filtration that gets all the big stuff out... it really does what it says, literally filters out the crap in the water using filter pads and the like.
Biological Filtration: Your live rock is doing all of that for you. When the fish poop, the bacteria on the live rock get to work converting the poop from ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate. The only way to get nitrate out of the water is by doing regular water changes.
Chemical filtration: this is usually accomplished by using bags of carbon that filter out impurities and other harmful chemicals in the water. Very good to have.
OK - having said all that, get yourself a marineland HOB (hang on back) filter system which has the filter pads and the carbon, then get yourself a protein skimmer. I agree that coralife makes good stuff for smaller applications like your 39. Again the 10x rule applies here... look for a skimmer that can either handle 300-400gph, or is rated for tanks up to 40 gallons.
also, if you wanted, you can get equipment that can handle larger tanks, like getting a skimmer that can handle a 60 gallon tank... this just means that your skimmer is going to ROCK in your tank, keeping it super clean. Same goes for the Marineland filter thing.
I haven't mentioned sand yet because you'll need to get your filtration together first. I say this because when you put the sand in there, it's really going to cloud your tank and you're going to need filtration to get it cleared up. Get live sand if possible, because it also houses bacteria that helps eat the detritus.
DO NOT GET CRUSHED CORAL. PLEASE. It's just bad news. Live sand, aragonite, oolite, anything you want, but don't get crushed coral... it turns into a cesspool of garbage over time and it's going to become a nightmare for you down the road.
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2745861
Dana Point a good hour from the pier in La Jolla (if traffic is good) so you may need a truck with 55 gal drums to make it worth your while.
Let me know when you get here so we can set up some frag swaps.

Yes! Sweet, thanks! I have family in La Jolla, and yes it's a bit farther away than Oceanside is to Dana Point. I've never done the drive myself, but it looks like a solid half hour on the PCH to oceanside... even further to La Jolla.
 

socal57che

Active Member
Originally Posted by YearOfTheNick
http:///forum/post/2745865
Yes! Sweet, thanks! I have family in La Jolla, and yes it's a bit farther away than Oceanside is to Dana Point. I've never done the drive myself, but it looks like a solid half hour on the PCH to oceanside... even further to La Jolla.
Oside is about the halfway point.
The PCH is the 5 fwy through Camp Pendleton. Stay on the 5. PCH is slow. Scenic, but slow.
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
lastly, Clean-up crews and lighting.....
You're going to want to put snails and hermit crabs in there... they do a great job of eating excessive algae and also help eat the detritus too. Generally, you'll want one small hermit and one small snail per gallon, so get 40 of each. If you want to get the big bluelegs, I wouldn't get 40 of those, it'd be too crowded... I'd get 5 of those. Also, get extra shells. I've seen many hermits fight over each others shell... you're going to have a lot of hermit deaths on your hands because they will fight to the death for each others shells if vacant shells aren't available. I've even had hermits kill my snails so the hermits could have their shells. Greedy jerks!
Lighting is the last thing you need to think of. If you're not going to put corals in your tank, any lighting will do. Literally. Just get something that allows you to see the fish and you'll be fine.
IF you want to get corals though, it's a whole different story. You'd probably need to get T5 or MH (Metal halide lighting). Both of these types of lighting are much stronger, and do a great job of simulating the sun so the corals can get the light they need. It really depends on what kind of corals you want to add. Some corals require a TON of lighting which is why a lot of people use MH's. I have multiple tanks, and some have MH's, some with T5's in them. If you want to go with corals and even one day get an anemone with a clown fish, a T5 system will work ok for you. T5's are good for smaller tanks because they don't get as hot as MH's and are generally less expensive to operate. I would look for a pair of dual-tube T5's which travel the entire length of your tank, so a total of 4 tubes. IF you wanted to go the MH route, I think a 250w would be good for you.
Whew that was a lot of typing.... man I'm such a nerd
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2745870
Oside is about the halfway point.
The PCH is the 5 fwy through Camp Pendleton. Stay on the 5. PCH is slow. Scenic, but slow.
Honestly though, how often do you take the PCH in that sweet bel-air of yours? If I was taking that thing, it'd be PCH all the way.
I hate the 5. However, it's better than the 405. What a nightmare.
 

socal57che

Active Member
Originally Posted by YearOfTheNick
http:///forum/post/2745874
Honestly though, how often do you take the PCH in that sweet bel-air of yours? If I was taking that thing, it'd be PCH all the way.
I hate the 5. However, it's better than the 405. What a nightmare.
Try the 91 from LA to Riverside. That is my all time least favorite.
The five seven has actually never seen the PCH. It still needs a lot of work, but I do drive it 3 miles to Home Depot, the grocery store, wally world and my daughter's karate.
I'm kinda hijacking the thread so...
DSM, Y.O.T.N. has put together a nice write-up. If I were you, I'd also pick up a copy of "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert Fenner to read. Easy to follow reference that is a real asset.
BTW, yearofthenick...inbound PM
 

dsmjuggalo

New Member
so i found a guy today that is moving this weekend and wants to sell a whole aquarium with fish,live rock,coral and all accessories....90 gallon with stand and hood,sump and all kinda other stuff for 500$....wish i had the room for this thing. if anyone wants it let me know and ill pm you the number
 

shaunalynna

Member
I am just going to say welcome to the boards! I am also a newbie and am learning lots. I was always the admirer and my ex-husband was the person who set the tanks up. I am not the admirer and set up person. You will learn as you go and if you have questions any at all post and I AM SURE someone can answer it. I know I have done this many times while learning and am still learning!
 

dsmjuggalo

New Member
can someone clue me in as to when i can start adding coral....i think imma just go with live rock,sand,and coral until i get a bigger tank.
 

yearofthenick

Active Member
Give your tanks a good 2-3 months minimum of you tank being set up before you add coral. They're best off that way and will look happier if the tank water is more established. Also remember, you need to buy strong lighting! T5 minimum!

You're going to need to add calcium and buffer to your tank, in addition to phytoplankton. The corals have a "bone structure" for the lack of a better term, and they use the calcium in the water to maintain and grow their "bones." The phytoplankton is food that your corals filter out of the water.
I have pic's below of brightwell aquatics Reef Code A+B and Brightwell Phytoplanton 5-15um. This is good stuff for a smaller tank. Because of the size of your tank, I'd do a capful of each every couple of days to maintain good levels. It would also be wise to purchase a reef test kit so you can check the calcium and alkalinity levels. Corals feel the most comfortable when your calcium is between 400-500 and your alkaliniy is 9-10. This is what your tank levels should be at before you add any corals. Once you add the corals, then do the reef code a+b capfuls. do three capfuls of phyto the first time.
If you want to add an anemone also, you'll need to get zooplankton, which is larger than the phytoplankton and will be easier for the anemone to catch, since anemone's are filter feeders as well. Get zooplankton in the size of 500-2,000 um. Anemone's need really really really good quality water, so I would wait AT LEAST 3 months before adding an anemone... they tend to be very delicate.
Good luck bro.


 

dsmjuggalo

New Member
so i have a guy wanting to sell me a tank with a bunch of live rock in it but it hasnt had water in it for awhile...any chance this lr is still good or should i pass on it?
 

jerryatrick

Active Member
Originally Posted by DSMjuggalo
http:///forum/post/2748839
so i have a guy wanting to sell me a tank with a bunch of live rock in it but it hasnt had water in it for awhile...any chance this lr is still good or should i pass on it?
No more mistakes from me I promise. If the live rock hasn't been in water then it is dead rock. How much is he asking? Could still be used as base rock if the price is Bob Barker.
 

dsmjuggalo

New Member
its a 75 gallon aquarium with stand and 80 lbs of used to be live rock with assorted other accessories for 250$....too much?

 

jerryatrick

Active Member
Originally Posted by DSMjuggalo
http:///forum/post/2748850
its a 75 gallon aquarium with stand and 80 lbs of used to be live rock with assorted other accessories for 250$....too much?
Before I answer, do you know the other accessories? No matter what kind of rock you get, it can be expensive.
 
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