water change to help cycling????

S

smt91278

Guest
my 44 gal corner has been cycling for a month. ammonia has stayed at 1.0ppm sinse i removed the raw shrimp 3 weeks ago. all other parameters stay at zero. sinse my ammonia doesnt want to seem to drop off, should i do a small water change to help my cycling along? i dont mind being patient, but maybe this would help???
please help!
 
spanko

spanko

Active Member
The first thing I would do in your case would be to get a different kit to check the ammonia. Take a sample of the water to the LFS and they will check ammonia nitrite and nitrate and Ph for you to verify your test kit isn't bad. I have seen this happen before.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by smt91278
http:///forum/post/2455113
my 44 gal corner has been cycling for a month. ammonia has stayed at 1.0ppm sinse i removed the raw shrimp 3 weeks ago. all other parameters stay at zero. sinse my ammonia doesnt want to seem to drop off, should i do a small water change to help my cycling along? i dont mind being patient, but maybe this would help???
please help!
No, don't do a water change. What kind of water flow do you have in the tank? Do you have LR and LS? It may be the tests, but I doubt that all of them have gone bad, although it could be possible if they are old.
 
S

swalchemist

Guest
No water change unless you plan to add water from an already cycled tank.
 
1journeyman

1journeyman

Active Member
Water change won't hurt the situation, but it won't help either.
Water changes should be done in a cycle to prevent Ammonia from going too high. (above 1.0).
Are you running pumps? Is the water well aerated?
 
S

smt91278

Guest
i have a hang-on filter, and a maxi-jet 600 running ever sinse the tank was filled with water. i have 50 play-sand bed. i dont have any live rock yet. im going to put my first order in for 25lbs, but don't want to make my cycling problem any worse.
I just bought the aquarium phar. test kit when i started my cycle. i tested the parameters again today, and im still getting ammonia levels of 1.0ppm. all other levels remain at zero.
im guessing, from reading from previous replies, my test kit is crap.
ive always used this brand of testing kits. is it really fair to assume i have in fact bought a bad kit?
 
aquatica-tech

aquatica-tech

Member
Originally Posted by smt91278
http:///forum/post/2457127
i have a hang-on filter, and a maxi-jet 600 running ever sinse the tank was filled with water. i have 50 play-sand bed. i dont have any live rock yet. im going to put my first order in for 25lbs, but don't want to make my cycling problem any worse.
I just bought the aquarium phar. test kit when i started my cycle. i tested the parameters again today, and im still getting ammonia levels of 1.0ppm. all other levels remain at zero.
im guessing, from reading from previous replies, my test kit is crap.
ive always used this brand of testing kits. is it really fair to assume i have in fact bought a bad kit?


Well when you add live rock (unless your QTing it) your Ammonia is going to rise again but more flow might be wanted in the tank you have im guessing cause you need a minimum of 20x turnover rate in your tank for optimum water filtering and chemical transformation
 
S

smt91278

Guest
so im supposed to have 880gph flow in a 44 gallon tank? that seems a little high. with flow like that, you would think it would blow the sand all around the tank. please keep in mind, this is a 44 gallon corner tank.
 
aquatica-tech

aquatica-tech

Member
Originally Posted by smt91278
http:///forum/post/2457207
so im supposed to have 880gph flow in a 44 gallon tank? that seems a little high. with flow like that, you would think it would blow the sand all around the tank. please keep in mind, this is a 44 gallon corner tank.
Well im going by what most of the people say on this site, or I think 10x haha not really sure but im sure they said 20x
 
mayb keeper

mayb keeper

Member
What kind of filter do you have? Is it a hob canister, bio-wheel, ps or other?
I'm a novice at reef tanks(see other posts and you'll see
), but I've recently done a lot of research. My underqualified guess is that you need better filtration, more flow, and more surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.
Oh, and aim one powerhead at the base or the live rock but above the point where it blows the sand.
 
aquatica-tech

aquatica-tech

Member

Originally Posted by mayB keeper
http:///forum/post/2457245
What kind of filter do you have? Is it a hob canister, bio-wheel, ps or other?
I'm a novice at reef tanks(see other posts and you'll see
), but I've recently done a lot of research. My underqualified guess is that you need better filtration, more flow, and more surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.
Oh, and aim one powerhead at the base or the live rock but above the point where it blows the sand.
For filter I run a sump but planning on converting for Refugium cause the fact it helps lowers Nitrates and thats really helpfull
For reef tanks your going to need more flow than a FOWLR might want, I think that a Reef does need 20x turnover rate not really sure cause im not really into reef but more FOWLR, and yes more surface area is better for example more live rock but then it handicaps the fish by not letting them have enough room to swim so thats why its good to build a Fuge, you can add add liverock to the fuge so you can add more surface area and that it wont disturb your DT
And the power heads you should aim them that have a overall circulation throught the tank so you wont have dead spots and that Nitrates wont build in those spots
Im a novice too but im trying to apply the knoledge ive aquired over these few months and most likely if im wrong a real Aquarist might correct me, if not then just make tiny threads about certain questions
Remeber No question is a stupid question so ask awat!!!!
 
mayb keeper

mayb keeper

Member

Originally Posted by mayB keeper
http:///forum/post/2457245
What kind of filter do you have? Is it a hob canister, bio-wheel, ps or other?
I'm a novice at reef tanks(see other posts and you'll see
), but I've recently done a lot of research. My underqualified guess is that you need better filtration, more flow, and more surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.
Oh, and aim one powerhead at the base or the live rock but above the point where it blows the sand.
Umm, I actually meant this for the op. So smt91278 that was for you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top