Water loss/evaporation

camanuch

Member
hey guys I don't have any leaks at all. I have a 75gal DT and a 20gal sump/fuge. I add 2L of water a day to keep at max water line. It could go about 5 and then I have to add. Any thoughts. I have 3 no flourecents and a 65 watt 65k spotlight on by sump. Any thoughts. temp in tank is 76-78 degrees. But my temp in house is probably about the same due to the fact I don't have control of heat in house. Any ideas if its evaporation or just deal with it?
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by camanuch
http:///forum/post/2528594
hey guys I don't have any leaks at all. I have a 75gal DT and a 20gal sump/fuge. I add 2L of water a day to keep at max water line. It could go about 5 and then I have to add. Any thoughts. I have 3 no flourecents and a 65 watt 65k spotlight on by sump. Any thoughts. temp in tank is 76-78 degrees. But my temp in house is probably about the same due to the fact I don't have control of heat in house. Any ideas if its evaporation or just deal with it?
my 65gal DT w/ a similar size sump and temp. loses about the same amount of water every day. Its definitely evaporation. I was able to cut down on this by covering the sump with plexi-glass, but then ran into heat issues, cause I'm using mini PC lighting on the sump. I purchased a drip system to set up and drip RO water in so that I wasn't constantly having to top off, and I could be gone for longer time periods. Haven't had time to mess with it yet. Curious if anyone else has similar problems or some other suggestions as well.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by camanuch
http:///forum/post/2528594
hey guys I don't have any leaks at all. I have a 75gal DT and a 20gal sump/fuge. I add 2L of water a day to keep at max water line. It could go about 5 and then I have to add. Any thoughts. I have 3 no flourecents and a 65 watt 65k spotlight on by sump. Any thoughts. temp in tank is 76-78 degrees. But my temp in house is probably about the same due to the fact I don't have control of heat in house. Any ideas if its evaporation or just deal with it?
Sounds about right to me, this time of year, the temp in the house, heat on etc etc.. very common to see that much evap.
 

spanko

Active Member
I have a 29 biocube that I took the top off of and added a 150 watt Sunpod MH. I did this about November time frame and so far I am adding about 2.5 gallons per week via the ATO.
 

reefmate75

Member
i have a 135 gallon that eats 3 gallons a day...very big pain hahaha
i have thought about putting the glass back over the top of the tank, i have 2 skimmers in the bottom and i think it ould be ok to cover the top mostly
 

camanuch

Member
I just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. Also any good ATO systems anyone can recomend to me? Or plans for a DIY. I am very good with my hands. Thanks guys
 

sly

Active Member
I made an ATA system for my tank 8 months ago and couldn't be happier with it. It's hooked up to my RO/DI system and fills through a simple plastic toilet float valve.
[edit] Mine is not exactly like the one pictured. It has a plastic connecting rod instead of metal. I would not recommend one with a metal rod because it can leach copper into the tank.

I took a small plastic paint bucket that they sell at Lowe's and drilled a hole in the bottom big enough for the valve's stem to fit through. I sawed off some of the stem because it allowed me to place the bucket lower (which lowers the water level). The bucket is placed on some blocks of wood and the water connection goes underneath.
I plumbed it into my sump with a simple U tube siphon hose. I use a street tee at the top and attach an airline to it. This way in order to fill the siphon hose, all you do is suck the air through the hose until the entire tube is full and some water starts to come through the airline. Then I pinch it off and put in a golf tee to plug the airline.
I set the water level by raising and lowering the float assembly. I turn on the water and the bucket fills and siphons into the sump. When it's at the set level, the float shuts off. There is the remote possibility that the float could stick and not shut off. That's why I used a very small bucket that is lower than my sump. This way if it does malfunction, the bucket will only fill up the sump to the level of the top of the bucket. Then water will spill out of the bucket and into a dike system (not pictured) that I placed around the whole thing (sump and bucket both). I used one of those plastic rubber-maid tubs that are made to put clothes under people's beds. It was a perfect size to put my sump and the overflow bucket in. Then I plumbed the dike system to a drain.

Worst case scenario the bucket overflows and my sump fills a little more than usual but not enough to harm the tank.
It is important to use all plastic parts. Do not use brass fittings for anything. Also, do not use one of those "water saver" toilet floats. They will not fill back up once the water level drains down. It is also important not to go too short on your bucket. You need to allow room for it to back fill in case your power goes out and your sump fills up. You don't want your sump backfilling into your bucket, causing it to overflow, and your saltwater being lost.
I've been using this for 8 months now and have had no problems at all with it. My tank evaporates about 2 gallons per day so this is great (especially if I want to go away on vacation). I just hook up the automatic feeder and off I go...
 

camanuch

Member
Originally Posted by Sly
http:///forum/post/2529075
I made an ATA system for my tank 8 months ago and couldn't be happier with it. It's hooked up to my RO/DI system and fills through a simple plastic toilet float valve.
[edit] Mine is not exactly like the one pictured. It has a plastic connecting rod instead of metal. I would not recommend one with a metal rod because it can leach copper into the tank.

I took a small plastic paint bucket that they sell at Lowe's and drilled a hole in the bottom big enough for the valve's stem to fit through. I sawed off some of the stem because it allowed me to place the bucket lower (which lowers the water level). The bucket is placed on some blocks of wood and the water connection goes underneath.
I plumbed it into my sump with a simple U tube siphon hose. I use a street tee at the top and attach an airline to it. This way in order to fill the siphon hose, all you do is suck the air through the hose until the entire tube is full and some water starts to come through the airline. Then I pinch it off and put in a golf tee to plug the airline.
I set the water level by raising and lowering the float assembly. I turn on the water and the bucket fills and siphons into the sump. When it's at the set level, the float shuts off. There is the remote possibility that the float could stick and not shut off. That's why I used a very small bucket that is lower than my sump. This way if it does malfunction, the bucket will only fill up the sump to the level of the top of the bucket. Then water will spill out of the bucket and into a dike system (not pictured) that I placed around the whole thing (sump and bucket both). I used one of those plastic rubber-maid tubs that are made to put clothes under people's beds. It was a perfect size to put my sump and the overflow bucket in. Then I plumbed the dike system to a drain.

Worst case scenario the bucket overflows and my sump fills a little more than usual but not enough to harm the tank.
It is important to use all plastic parts. Do not use brass fittings for anything. Also, do not use one of those "water saver" toilet floats. They will not fill back up once the water level drains down. It is also important not to go too short on your bucket. You need to allow room for it to back fill in case your power goes out and your sump fills up. You don't want your sump backfilling into your bucket, causing it to overflow, and your saltwater being lost.
I've been using this for 8 months now and have had no problems at all with it. My tank evaporates about 2 gallons per day so this is great (especially if I want to go away on vacation). I just hook up the automatic feeder and off I go...
I really appreciate it. Thanks that's a great idea. That's the next thing I buy is a ro/di. Check some of my other threads with my pics of my tank. I am also going to be doing a fully custom corner tank. Also do you have to siphon all the time or it goes by its self after the air is out of the line?
 

sly

Active Member
Once you get the air out of there it operates itself. It will siphon from the higher water level to the lower water level, always. So if your bucket fills with fresh water, then the level rises and flows into your sump. If the power goes out and your sump fills, it will go into your bucket. So it works both ways...
 

sly

Active Member
It is a toilet... I grabbed that pic off the internet to show what kind of valve I was referring to. I wanted to make sure that people didn't think I meant the floating swing arm type valve.
 

sly

Active Member
Here is an actual picture of my ATO system. There is still a little water in the dike because I moved my UV sterilizer and had to disconnect the lines to it and so it emptied its contents into the dike.
 

sammyw

Member
Here's an idea that works great on my 90 gallon. I lose about 2 gallons a day due to my running fans to keep it cool. What I did was purchase a 5 gallon rectangular glass tank, and placed it at the end of my sump. I also purchased an all plastic float valve and mounted it on the end of my sump at water level. I placed a cheapy discount store powerhead on it's side in the bottom of the 5 gallon. I then ran a small airline tube into the end, hooked the other end of the airline tube to the float valve and it tops off like a charm. Keeps the sump consistent salinity. I cost me about $30. Could go larger on the top off tank if wanted.
 

bpro32

Member
Originally Posted by sammyw
http:///forum/post/2564641
Here's an idea that works great on my 90 gallon. I lose about 2 gallons a day due to my running fans to keep it cool. What I did was purchase a 5 gallon rectangular glass tank, and placed it at the end of my sump. I also purchased an all plastic float valve and mounted it on the end of my sump at water level. I placed a cheapy discount store powerhead on it's side in the bottom of the 5 gallon. I then ran a small airline tube into the end, hooked the other end of the airline tube to the float valve and it tops off like a charm. Keeps the sump consistent salinity. I cost me about $30. Could go larger on the top off tank if wanted.

Do you have any pics or drawings of this? I want to set up an ato for my 60 but I don't want to spend $90 for a jbj.
 

camanuch

Member
as of right now I lose 2L a day. Not that bad. But we will see what I lose over the summer. Space is tight so I got to figure this one out. LOL
 
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