water / new tank

lems4046

New Member
I just purchased a new saltwater set up including 75 gallon tank, 125 wet/dry filter, pink fiji sand 100lbs, skimmer, uv nuetralizer, dual satelite lightng,
I filled my tank with freshwater with the sand in the bottom i then realized that i didn't have any declor, i had to wait to the next day to add declor so i set up my filter system and all other components waited to add the salt and declor the next day... I need to know if this affected my sand?
Also at this time i added the declor and salt... My PH is 8.2 and my ammona, nitrites, and nitrates are 0. My salenity is in normal range. Is It safe for me to go ahead and buy my live rock now?
 

sly

Active Member
I found 2 mistakes on your setup. First, you should never use regular freshwater. You need to go ahead and use a filter so that you can remove the minerals that are in tap water. The filter will remove the chlorine as well. These minerals cause algae to grow in saltwater tank. Dechlorinator can build up over time and can only be removed by doing water changes.
Also, you should mix your salt with the water in a bucket before adding it to your tank. Purchase a small air pump with an air stone and aerate the water in the bucket.
There are 2 reasons to aerate your water before you add it to your tank. 1st... Water out of the tap has almost no oxygen in it. If you were to pour this directly into your tank, you could actually suffocate your fish. 2nd. When you measure your S
pecific G
ravity, your readings will be off if you do not aerate. This is because there is no dissolved gas in the water. As oxygen is absorbed by the water, the SG will be increase. If you mix your salt to 1.023 before you aerate the water, later, when the water has absorbed oxygen by cycling through your filter system, your final SG will actually be higher than where you set it. You can not mix salt and water properly if you don't first have the water aerated because the SG will increase once the water absorbs oxygen.
There should not be any problem with your sand. The declorinator will remove all chlorine. If any has been absorbed by the sand, after a few days, the dechlorinator will remove it.
You could buy some live rock now if you want to, but if you can, it would be better to empty out your water and replace it with filtered water like reverse osmosis, de-ionised, or distilled water. If you can't do this right now, then that's ok. It will still work but it may not be the best setup and can lead to algae problems in the future.
If you buy live rock now, you will have a lot of die off. It would be better to cycle your tank with a simple frozen shrimp instead. But if you really want to go with the live rock now, it can be done but expect some algae problems and also for most of the live rock to die. This is because with a new tank, your biological cycle hasn't yet started. Whatever you put in there will go through some harsh changes while your tank is "cycling". If you put live rock in right now, most of the invertebrates within it will die because they can't handle the high ammonia levels that you are going to get. As your live rock dies off it will provide ample nutrition for nusiance algae. You can get rid of it over time, but you would save yourself a lot of hassle by skipping the live rock until your tank has cycled.
Like I said, you could cycle your tank by using a frozen shrimp. Throw it in there and let it float around for about a month. Keep testing your water and when your nitrite levels finally go down, your tank has cycled. Do a complete water change with filtered water and you are ready to begin adding in your livestock. Add things slowly and give your system time to adjust to each thing you add.
 

lems4046

New Member
That will be fine i am in no hurry... I also am needing to put in some powerheads or something to move water around i think... Is the other equipment that i purchased good enough..
 

lems4046

New Member
also i have a submersble in my sump with the discharge line just sticking under the glass top, the way it is its displacing my sand badly, Is there a way to stop this or arange the way the water is returned to the tank?
I hate to ask to many questions but ow do i adjust the air on my skimmer to make it function properly???
 

sly

Active Member
Everything you listed sounds very good. What size is your skimmer? Also, do you know how much water flow your main pump delivers? Most people try to shoot for about 15-20x tank turnover per hour. So on a 50 gal tank, you would want a pump that could deliver 750-1000 gph. High water flow is critical to maintaining a clean tank.
Also it is good to add a few powerheads. You want to keep the water circulating so that temperature and nutrients (oxygen) will be evenly distributed. Aim your powerheads down toward your substrate (but not too much to blow it around). This will not only direct oxygen toward your sand, but it will also kick up any loose debris so that it won't settle on the bottom of your tank and rot.
I recommend maxijet powerheads. They seem to be quieter and last what seems like forever. You want enough of them to practically eliminate dead spots in your tank. You want the water circulating all over, but not too much... :)
If you are willing to spend the money, you could get an ozone generator with your skimmer. I have one on mine and it works very good at cleaning the water. It causes your water to almost look blue because it gets so clear. It looks my fish are suspended in mid-air! :happyfish
I'm just assuming that your UV filter is sized properly for your tank. You don't want one too big or too small. Most of them have capacity ratings on them. You need to get the right water flow through them. Too little flow and your tank may not get cleaned enough... too much flow and the water will not have time in the chamber to become clean. You just have to match the flow for your size tank.
 

sly

Active Member

Originally posted by LEMS4046
also i have a submersble in my sump with the discharge line just sticking under the glass top, the way it is its displacing my sand badly, Is there a way to stop this or arange the way the water is returned to the tank?
I hate to ask to many questions but ow do i adjust the air on my skimmer to make it function properly???

Do you mean that your output is blowing your sand everywhere? You could take some PVC and make a sprayer bar. Just do a search for it in the DIY forum. I have mine aimed at the opposite side of the tank. This minimises the force against my substrate. I have crushed coral instead of sand and so it does not blow around as easily.
What kind of skimmer do you have exactly. On mine I don't have to adjust the air because it is a venturi skimmer, but all skimmers are different. I just need to know what you have first...
 

lems4046

New Member
My Main pump max is 500gph but at 4 ft head it's bout 350gph
I purchased two power heads today aqua-tech cheapies for now
170 gph each
My UV is a Turbo Twist 3X 9Watt UV Sterilizer (Coralife)
with a 300 gpm in the sump bck to the sump
My Skimmer is a Motorized 75 Protein Skimmer (Aqua Clear Aquatics) in the sump
 

lems4046

New Member
Also i would like to put my pumps in my wet/dry sump... the sump isn't deep enough to mount them up right. as far as i know they are completly sealed unit... whatdo ya think?
 

sly

Active Member
You have a good setup, but in the future, it may not be big enough. You will eventually want a more powerful main pump and a bigger skimmer. I did some searching around for that skimmer and I think I found it. Does it have it's own seperate water pump? If so, then you have a venturi skimmer similar to mine. You can not control the amount of air that enters these but you can control the water. The "exhaust" side of the skimmer should be adjustable. If you raise the exhaust, your water level will raise. If you lower it, the water will lower. You want just enough water in your skimmer to produce a dark, smelly skim in your collection cup. If you just hooked it up, it could take a few hours to a few weeks to begin producing skimmate. As your tank cycles, it should start working. You will need to start out with your water colum low at first and then slowly raise it as needed as your skimmer starts working. You want it to produce skim, but not so much that the cup fills up everyday and is clear and watery.
In the future, you may want to buy a bigger skimmer. Use the main pump you have now to power your new skimmer (in the future). Then use the pump that is currently on your skimmer as a powerhead in your tank. That way you only have to buy a new skimmer and a new main pump. You will keep everything you already have but the skimmer. This would probably be the cheapest way to upgrade.
[edit] I just wanted to add that the UV filter and your current main tank pump are a pretty close match for water flow. If you use your main pump on your skimmer later on, you could attach your UV filter the pump so that the water going to your skimmer will pass through the UV filter first.
When you upgrade your main pump, you don't want to have that UV filter hooked up to it. It will flow too much for it to work effectively.
 

sly

Active Member

Originally posted by LEMS4046
Also i would like to put my pumps in my wet/dry sump... the sump isn't deep enough to mount them up right. as far as i know they are completly sealed unit... whatdo ya think?

I have my pumps in the sump and it works good. You just have to make sure that yours are designed for it, which it sounds like they are.
[edit] if your sump is not big enough for the pumps to fit, then you will have to drill holes in it and hook up some PVC lines to carry the water to your pumps and you would have to mount them outside the sump. You may want to go ahead and eventually do this if you upgrade your skimmer since a bigger skimmer will likely take up almost all the room in your sump.
If you don't want to dril in your sump I could suggest something else if you'd like... Just let me know.
 

sly

Active Member

Originally posted by LEMS4046
that last question was bout putting my heaters in my sump

oh. ok... Well I have my heater in my sump also. It's actually in the refugium, but same idea...
It works very well in the sump. Mine is completely submerged. The benefit to putting a heater in the sump is that the heat will be mixed very well into the water by the main pump as it is pumped back into the tank, making for very even heat distribution. Just make sure that you put your thermometer in your tank and not your sump. You want to measure the temp of your tank water and adjust the temp in your sump accordingly.
 

lems4046

New Member
One more question ... can i put another container beside my sump and us a siphen technique to it i am running out of room in my filter sump... i would like to move my uv pump to their and instead of it pumping back into the sump take it to the mt with my main put them both into the pvc device that i'm gonna build
 

sly

Active Member
Yes, you can. That's how I have my refugium set-up. I can tell you how to set it up later but I have to go to work right now. :joy:
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Hey Sly you don't see any negative affects with running ozone??? How often do you run it?? Is it on a controller?
 

sly

Active Member
No I don't have any negative effects with running ozone. The reason is I have an ozone unit that it just undersized for my tank. I run it wide open all the time and I have no fear that it will overdose the tank. It does make a huge difference on water quality. The water seems to disappear. If I had a slightly bigger unit, I would buy an ORP meter but since mine is undersized, I don't worry about it. :joy:
If you buy an ozone unit that is oversized, then you will definitely need an ORP meter. You don't want to overdose your tank. For one, it will kill your macros if you have any.
One other thing. If you use ozone, you need to make sure that your airline is ozone safe. Also you want a skimmer that is rated for ozone use. If not, then they both will become brittle and will crack.
 

sly

Active Member
If you want to move some things out of your sump to make more room, here's how you could do it. Just take a 10 gal aquarium or any other container you want to use and set it up like in the drawing. Make a "U" tube siphon out of PVC and make sure that you glue the PVC together real well so that you don't have any air leaks that could break the siphon. You can put your main tank pump, heater and anything else you wanted in the container (like plants) while leaving plenty of room for a big skimmer in your sump. For your size tank, I would recommend 3/4 inch PVC for the siphon. You don't want to go smaller than this because it may not flow enough to keep up with your pump.
 

sammiefish

Member
im not sure if this was mentioned... after 24 hours there is no chlorine left in your tap water anyway... dont sweat it... but dont do it again:D
 
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