Water Pressure Low Need Help...

D

dorie

Guest
I would appreciate any feedback on this matter.
I have a 36 watt UV sterlizer connected to my tank, the water pressure going back into the tank is very low. I did T it off and well the clarity of the water was not as good and the brown algae started to over take the LR and Tank. Anyone give me some advice!
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
UV lights are more effective when run at a slower flow rate (too fast and the UV doesn't have time to kill organisms)...
Whats the Max and Minimum flow rate for your filter??
You want to run the unit closer to the Minimum...
As bulbs get older they lose their effectiveness as the spectrum shifts...How old is the Bulb...??
Calcium deposits can build up on the glass tube the water runs through blocking light...Have you cleaned "inside" the filter...??
What do you mean by "T" off it...What size pump are you running on the system...??
While Diatoms are a bacterial agent and UV can and will Kill the organisms...Too much Silicate or Phosphate can cause an overabundance of growth (more than the UV can control)...
What are your readings for Si and Phos...?? Readings of 0 may not indicate a lack thereof, they may be "locked up" in the diatoms present...
What is your source water??...Test that (even if RO) to see if your adding nutrients with WC and top off...
HTH
 
D

dorie

Guest
I have a 32 hp pump returning water to the UV and then the tank. My readings are great, gravity is good readings too.
The UV bulb is brand new 1 week old, just replaced it.
The LFS said to install a T to direct some water through the UV and some directley to the tank.
Can you please advice...I have a External trickle Filter (wet/dry) under tank with bio balls, skimmer attached to the canister with its own pump.
I have 3 bags of Chem Pure in with the 32 hp pump along with an airstone, and a heater in the sump to help maintain the temperature returning water to the UV. This I think is very strong circulation and I don't think the UV can handle it.
I have 4 submersible powerheads with small cannister filters attached to them in the 180 gl tank for water movement (it helps in picking up all the floating debris).
I do know that I have to increase my lighting for the corals I want to keep. Thinking of adding another 2 48" hoods with triple bulbs.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
But What about the UV, should I keep the T or just direct the water through the UV?
 
doris

doris

Member

Originally posted by dorie
I have a 32 hp pump returning water to the UV and then the tank. My readings are great, gravity is good readings too.

Don't you mean 32 gph? A 32 hp pump probably runs SeaWorld.
 
D

dorie

Guest
Your Right, my mistake...so what do think? What am I doing wrong?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
I don't understand the 32hp pump either...:notsure:
Could you find the product name/model number on the pump so we can reference gph...??
Could you tell us the product name/model of the UV so we can reference Min and Max flow rates...??
Sounds like you may just need a ballvalve on the return line to regulate/divert more flow to UV...But I sure could use more information before I give any "advise"...
Powerheads with "canister filters" or just prefilter sponges...??
And why an airstone in the sump...??
 
D

dorie

Guest
The pump I am using is Model Rio Hyperflow 32HF
6ft. is 1300 gallon per hour /4940 liter per hour.
The UV Sterlizer is Model#80025 36 watt
on the instructions it recommends this flow rates and pumps
100-500 GPH -Rio 800-1100 / Aqua Clear 90 / Mag Drive 950 / Eheim 1060.
Will this help?
 
D

dorie

Guest
the 4 powerheads are AquaClear 402 which have the forward or reverse flow.
I put the airstone to circulate the water before returning it to the tank. not necessary?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
OK, the info colors in the picture a bit more...
Understand the PHs..Airstone in sump not necessary,you have plenty of gaseous exchange with overflow/sump...You do have a Skimmer,right? OK
The RIO pump would overpower the UV on its own so "T"ing it off main return line makes sence...
The "water pressure" (flow) out of the UV should "be low"... compared to the return rate of the pump...about 1/10...{1,300gph through pump vs.150 or so gph through UV}
Now before we go measuring flow rates through the UV and adding Ball Valves and such...Lets get back to the original question...
..."the water pressure going back into the tank is very low. I did T it off and well the clarity of the water was not as good and the brown algae started to over take the LR and Tank..."
Was the flow rate always low or did it go down when you "T"d it off...??
Did the water "clarity"/brown algae change at this point or did you add the UV to clear up the tank...??
Why I'm asking is...It sounds like the UV flow rate is OK...(I can give you a way to test it/confirm acceptable range)...and you may be more concerned with the water clarity and "brown algae" (Diatom) build up... :thinking:
 
D

dorie

Guest
The water pressure coming from the Uv is has always been slow.
But I removed the T, because of the brown algae and clarity.
So should I go back and leave the T on?
The more I think about it, having the flow of the water being returned to the sump is better right? It would only mean that I will have 2 return valves in my tank. (J joints). (am I saing this right)?
Sound OK. What do you think?
 
D

dorie

Guest
I am sorry, I will get better at this...
The UV was added beacuse my hippo had come down with ich and with the UV and the cleaner shrimp she cleared all up and my fish are very happy...and doing great at this point. The Yellow Tangs and the rest of my habitants are grazing on the brown algae, I am just concerned about the LR being overtaken by the algae.
I may also be understocked on my cleaning crew?
Here's is what I have so far
2 scissortail dartfish
3 Yellow Tangs
3 Yellowtail Blue Damselfish
1 Maroon Anemonefish
1 orangespotted shrimp goby
3 yellowheaded sleeper goby
2 bluelegged crabs
1 redlegged crab
3 snails
1 sand anemone
a couple of mushroom corals
20 lbs of LR
20 lbs of Lava Rock for support of LR
fine sand
crushed coral
black sand
in a 180 gl Tank and it looks empty....My goal is a reef tank with a little bit of everything that will get along but I know I need to upgrade my lighting before I think of adding any soft or hard corals...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Originally posted by dorie
The water pressure coming from the Uv is has always been slow.
As it should be...
But I removed the T, because of the brown algae and clarity.
To increase water flow and "help" the clarity?
So should I go back and leave the T on?
Probably, if the flow through the UV is too fast it loses it's effectiveness...
The more I think about it, having the flow of the water being returned to the sump is better right? It would only mean that I will have 2 return valves in my tank. (J joints). (am I saing this right)?
Return lines, outlets...I understand...:)
Sound OK. What do you think?
Slow the flow down to a"reasonable rate" through the UV about 150-200gph...
To test just do some simple math...180gph is 3 g.p.minute or 1gal every 20 seconds...
Take a one gallon bucket under the outlet of the UV and see if it fills in 20 seconds...If it takes less time your flow is higher than 180gph, if it takes longer to fill your flow is less than 180gph
If your in the ballpark ...good enough, if not adjust flow up or down as needed.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by dorie
The Yellow Tangs and the rest of my habitants are grazing on the brown algae, I am just concerned about the LR being overtaken by the algae.
I may also be understocked on my cleaning crew?
2 bluelegged crabs
1 redlegged crab
3 snails
in a 180 gl Tank and it looks empty....
As far as the clean up crew, I'd agree you could use more, I think the 1 crab/snail per gallon "rule" is a bit of overkill...But you sure do need more than 3 and 3.
As far as the "brown algae"/diatoms are concerned I would be looking at the "nutrients" feeding them, particularly Silicates and Phosphates...Do you use RO/DI water for water changes/top offs?? You should.
I also would suggest doing a SEARCH on Diatoms/brown algae in the Reef Tank forum as well as posting a seperate thread there addressing the problem of build up...Be prepared to post "actual/recent" water test numbers and "explain" your set up/filtration (as you did here) so others can help...
Good Luck
 
D

dorie

Guest
Thank You..
I do top off with RO kept in a 5 gallon with an airstone and heater for right temperature.
Am I doing this right?
Thanks Again,
Squidd
Also about the snails, I had a lot more but my crabs are killing them! I do have alot of empty shells around, but the crabs don't even use the snail shells. Is there anything I can do about this?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
"I do top off with RO kept in a 5 gallon with an airstone and heater for right temperature.
Am I doing this right?"
Can't hurt...:D Areated water of the correct temp is a good thing...do you check/match pH?
"Also about the snails, I had a lot more but my crabs are killing them! I do have alot of empty shells around, but the crabs don't even use the snail shells. Is there anything I can do about this?
A lot of people would blame it on the "blue legged hermits" but I haven't seen tha type of aggression with them in my tank.
Perhaps you could return those three to the LFS and pick up a "medium" sized assortment pkg of cleaners from SWF.com
A nice balanced package with a couple different species of snails an crabs (algae and detrius eaters) , a brittle star and a couple shrimp :D
Should have asked this eariler...How old is the tank (how long has it been set up)? Often a new tank will go through a diatom bloom as it establish's itself/ages. In which case it generally clears itself up.
 
D

dorie

Guest
My Tank is 1 year old!
Thank you for all of your advice!
I just did a water change today and everything is great I will check the readings tomorrow.
By the way I change the water by 8%! 10 Gallons once a week and clean out all of the media if it needs changing at that time.
So far so good?
 
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