This is the advice that was given to me when I was building a acrylic wet/dry.
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas.