what could be going on with my clown.
- Thread starter yas2903
- Start date
snailheave
Active Member
how does it swim?
schadiest1
Active Member
my clowns have swam at the top of the water before too. i don't think there is anything to worry about unless he's swimming upside down
S
sinner's girl
Guest
all readings are fine. what does this mean? Have your lfs double check your readings. Is your temp changing during the day? Changes in temp will stress them. Is someone picking on him? Have you added anything new to the tank? When was your last wc? Did you do anything different? What size tank? Are you adding anything other than food and water to the tank? are you giving him enough attention? (mine would act up if he was being ingored...I swear).
For me, it's always downhill once they don't eat.
Good luck, can you put him in a QT? if you don't have inverts you might be able to lower the salinity to help him....but ask how before just doing it, I don't remember the numbers.
For me, it's always downhill once they don't eat.
Good luck, can you put him in a QT? if you don't have inverts you might be able to lower the salinity to help him....but ask how before just doing it, I don't remember the numbers.
christie<3
New Member
ive bought three clowns in the last 3 mounths and after a little time they all have done the same thang and im sorry to say thay all have died the last one lasted about a mounth and ive asked everyone i could ask and no one knew why hope you have a better out come then me but i would consider putting him in a QT
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by Christie<
http:///forum/post/3
ive bought three clowns in the last 3 mounths and after a little time they all have done the same thang and im sorry to say thay all have died the last one lasted about a mounth and ive asked everyone i could ask and no one knew why hope you have a better out come then me but i would consider putting him in a QT
Hopefully this info will help you with your next clown.....
Anemonefishes are susceptible to many environmental and infectious diseases, and are hosts to numerous species of ectoparasites including isopods, monogenetic trematodes (flukes) tapeworms and roundworms.
Most fish are lost either through the initial collection to end user process, or the first losses of infection, or poor water quality maintenance, or even more regrettably, "treatment". Particularly problematical with these species are initial situations where specimens are compromised/debilitated extensively and rapidly "breaking down" (see photos). This combination bacterial, fungal, protozoan mess, so common in newly imported clownfish might be termed "new Anemonefish syndrome". Left unchecked and not, this "syndrome" results in mass mortalities of captured specimens. Among the most often identified pathogens, the algae Oodinium and the protozoans, Cryptocaryon and Brooklynella are common parasites of newly-arrived Anemonefishes. The latter protozoan is not able to be eradicated with copper-based medication. Most efficacious are ones involving formalin/formaldehyde.
Treatment: Prevention, as usual, is the rule.
1) Pick out reasonable stock as detailed in the selection of this article.
2) Do a brief freshwater dip to remove some/most external grunge (a scientific term).
3) Quarantine your new stock if at all possible/practical with or without their anemone for a couple of weeks. Using a mild bacterial medication is suggested; Maracyn II (tm) is excellent.
4) Introduce them to their new viable, permanent aquarium. After acclimation, add a "slime-coat" water conditioner.
Note: If you can't procure quarantine quarters, ask your retailer to hold your charges for you on deposit.
If you find yourself with clownfish with an apparent infection/infestation that seems to necessitate treatment:
1) Check and adjust your water quality. Most "disease" conditions of captive aquatic systems are a result of poor water or system quality. Do not just start pouring a therapeutic into your tank(s). Often, moving the clown's to a different system effects a fast "cure".
2) After quickly doing whatever you can to "re-center" your system, consider further treatments in the following order of priority:
A) Biological: Add a symbiotic anemone if you don't have one or move the fish/es to a system with one. Add a cleaner; a suitable Labroides wrasse (if you can secure a "good one" that has survived the rigors of capture, movement, acclimation to captive conditions), or better a cleaner goby, cleaner shrimp; they work.
B) Physical: Lower your specific gravity. Even with most invertebrates, dropping the specific gravity a few thousandths per day to 1.018-1.019 will not do permanent damage and may shift the balance of favorable conditions to your fishes.
C) Chemicals: Last and least. Be careful. Clown fish are like "canaries in a cave". They tend to be sensitive to the same toxins as their host actinarians (anemones). Copper, other metal salts, organic or metallic dyes, furan compounds, and organophosphate pesticides all have deleterious to disastrous effects. These substances in various formulations, comprise most of the "medicine treatments" available and used in our aquatics interest. They do have some limited, appropriate applications in bare marine treatment tanks. 'Nuff said?
These chemical therapeutics are dangerous and unnecessary with Clownfishes. "Experiment" with them only as a last resort.
http:///forum/post/3
ive bought three clowns in the last 3 mounths and after a little time they all have done the same thang and im sorry to say thay all have died the last one lasted about a mounth and ive asked everyone i could ask and no one knew why hope you have a better out come then me but i would consider putting him in a QT
Hopefully this info will help you with your next clown.....
Anemonefishes are susceptible to many environmental and infectious diseases, and are hosts to numerous species of ectoparasites including isopods, monogenetic trematodes (flukes) tapeworms and roundworms.
Most fish are lost either through the initial collection to end user process, or the first losses of infection, or poor water quality maintenance, or even more regrettably, "treatment". Particularly problematical with these species are initial situations where specimens are compromised/debilitated extensively and rapidly "breaking down" (see photos). This combination bacterial, fungal, protozoan mess, so common in newly imported clownfish might be termed "new Anemonefish syndrome". Left unchecked and not, this "syndrome" results in mass mortalities of captured specimens. Among the most often identified pathogens, the algae Oodinium and the protozoans, Cryptocaryon and Brooklynella are common parasites of newly-arrived Anemonefishes. The latter protozoan is not able to be eradicated with copper-based medication. Most efficacious are ones involving formalin/formaldehyde.
Treatment: Prevention, as usual, is the rule.
1) Pick out reasonable stock as detailed in the selection of this article.
2) Do a brief freshwater dip to remove some/most external grunge (a scientific term).
3) Quarantine your new stock if at all possible/practical with or without their anemone for a couple of weeks. Using a mild bacterial medication is suggested; Maracyn II (tm) is excellent.
4) Introduce them to their new viable, permanent aquarium. After acclimation, add a "slime-coat" water conditioner.
Note: If you can't procure quarantine quarters, ask your retailer to hold your charges for you on deposit.
If you find yourself with clownfish with an apparent infection/infestation that seems to necessitate treatment:
1) Check and adjust your water quality. Most "disease" conditions of captive aquatic systems are a result of poor water or system quality. Do not just start pouring a therapeutic into your tank(s). Often, moving the clown's to a different system effects a fast "cure".
2) After quickly doing whatever you can to "re-center" your system, consider further treatments in the following order of priority:
A) Biological: Add a symbiotic anemone if you don't have one or move the fish/es to a system with one. Add a cleaner; a suitable Labroides wrasse (if you can secure a "good one" that has survived the rigors of capture, movement, acclimation to captive conditions), or better a cleaner goby, cleaner shrimp; they work.
B) Physical: Lower your specific gravity. Even with most invertebrates, dropping the specific gravity a few thousandths per day to 1.018-1.019 will not do permanent damage and may shift the balance of favorable conditions to your fishes.
C) Chemicals: Last and least. Be careful. Clown fish are like "canaries in a cave". They tend to be sensitive to the same toxins as their host actinarians (anemones). Copper, other metal salts, organic or metallic dyes, furan compounds, and organophosphate pesticides all have deleterious to disastrous effects. These substances in various formulations, comprise most of the "medicine treatments" available and used in our aquatics interest. They do have some limited, appropriate applications in bare marine treatment tanks. 'Nuff said?
These chemical therapeutics are dangerous and unnecessary with Clownfishes. "Experiment" with them only as a last resort.
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by Christie<
http:///forum/post/3
ive bought three clowns in the last 3 mounths and after a little time they all have done the same thang and im sorry to say thay all have died the last one lasted about a mounth and ive asked everyone i could ask and no one knew why hope you have a better out come then me but i would consider putting him in a QT
SOme help in selecting your next one....sorry, I can't link to this site due to the "rules"...so a cut and paste .....
First of all, buy tank-bred and raised stock if possible. Percula (ocellaris), sebae (clarkii) and tomato (frenatus) clowns are produced in commercial numbers. These may be initially smaller and less-colorful than wild-caught specimens; but they do live. Aquarium-conditioned specimens, tank-raised or not, should be well-fleshed, especially along the back; alert, feeding with no whitish marks on their bodies of fins. If the fish offered are lethargic, hanging out in the corner with drooping, clamped fins, not feeding or have whitish markings....DO NOT BUY THEM! In fact, don't buy a fish from a system with any other fish in it displaying these symptoms. Clowns should be very alert, colorful and fat! They should swim with a wagging motion, and will usually dart to the back of the tank at your first approach, then come eagerly back to the front to look at you.
http:///forum/post/3
ive bought three clowns in the last 3 mounths and after a little time they all have done the same thang and im sorry to say thay all have died the last one lasted about a mounth and ive asked everyone i could ask and no one knew why hope you have a better out come then me but i would consider putting him in a QT
SOme help in selecting your next one....sorry, I can't link to this site due to the "rules"...so a cut and paste .....
First of all, buy tank-bred and raised stock if possible. Percula (ocellaris), sebae (clarkii) and tomato (frenatus) clowns are produced in commercial numbers. These may be initially smaller and less-colorful than wild-caught specimens; but they do live. Aquarium-conditioned specimens, tank-raised or not, should be well-fleshed, especially along the back; alert, feeding with no whitish marks on their bodies of fins. If the fish offered are lethargic, hanging out in the corner with drooping, clamped fins, not feeding or have whitish markings....DO NOT BUY THEM! In fact, don't buy a fish from a system with any other fish in it displaying these symptoms. Clowns should be very alert, colorful and fat! They should swim with a wagging motion, and will usually dart to the back of the tank at your first approach, then come eagerly back to the front to look at you.
yas2903
Member
thanks everyone for your help everything has been normal since he started acting weird but the temp its been jumping around but not enuff to strees him out it's been jumping from 79-85 that the highests its been. ill drop the specific gravity to ill see if i can get a cleaner fish or shimp see if i can bring him back.
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by yas2903
thanks everyone for your help everything has been normal since he started acting weird but the temp its been jumping around but not enuff to strees him out it's been jumping from 79-85 that the highests its been. ill drop the specific gravity to ill see if i can get a cleaner fish or shimp see if i can bring him back.
TO the contrary...temp should not fluctuate by more than two degrees. Constant temp fluctuations can bring on disease and can stress your animals. Also, 85 is too high for a closed marine system.
THe problem I beleive can at least partly be attributed to your temp fluctuations. You best steady that temp and bring it below 85 or you will have problems with your set-up.
JMO
thanks everyone for your help everything has been normal since he started acting weird but the temp its been jumping around but not enuff to strees him out it's been jumping from 79-85 that the highests its been. ill drop the specific gravity to ill see if i can get a cleaner fish or shimp see if i can bring him back.
TO the contrary...temp should not fluctuate by more than two degrees. Constant temp fluctuations can bring on disease and can stress your animals. Also, 85 is too high for a closed marine system.
THe problem I beleive can at least partly be attributed to your temp fluctuations. You best steady that temp and bring it below 85 or you will have problems with your set-up.
JMO
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by yas2903
thanks for your advice... I appreciate it.. I'm using fans now to lower the temperature when it passes 80 degrees..What should I do instead of using the fans? Should I lower the specific gravity?
Once the temp reaches 80 set your heater at 80. If you are running a clip on fan leave i trun. By setting your heater at 80 with fan running you will maintain a steady temp. See if the fish comes around once the temp is at 80 for a few hours.
thanks for your advice... I appreciate it.. I'm using fans now to lower the temperature when it passes 80 degrees..What should I do instead of using the fans? Should I lower the specific gravity?
Once the temp reaches 80 set your heater at 80. If you are running a clip on fan leave i trun. By setting your heater at 80 with fan running you will maintain a steady temp. See if the fish comes around once the temp is at 80 for a few hours.
scubadoo
Active Member
Yes..try soaking the food in vitamins such as selcon and also some garlic. This will help boost his immune system. I do this on a regular basis. He may be in better condition since you improved the enviornment and responding to the changes. Always a good sign if he is eating...but he needs to be monitored closely. I would not lower the specifi gravity...especially if you have live rock and inverts.
A fish that is eating is a good sign...and it gives you an oppurtunity to feed him vitamin enriched food
A fish that is eating is a good sign...and it gives you an oppurtunity to feed him vitamin enriched food
E
exile415
Guest
Clowns will be Clowns
