What do you think of my fuge design?

rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
I am looking to build a fuge. I put this design together. I got the idea from SignGuy so I cannot take full credit for it. Anyway, here is my current tank setup and the fuge design. Looking for some constructive feedback.
TANK
•All glass aquarium = 220 gallons – Dimensions = 72”L x 30”H x 24”D, hang-on overflow box.
FILTRATION
•MegaFlow 4 Wet/Dry sump w/ bio-balls w/ Mag Drive Model 12 (1200 GPH) return pump.
•AquaC EV-180 w/ Mag Drive Model 7 (700 GPH).
•2 - Phosban Reactor 150 – Feeds off return pump.
HEATERS
•2 – Jalli 500W Titanium Heaters w/ controllers.
POWER HEADS
•5 – Maxi Jet 1200 (295GPH) Power Heads + head from return pump.
LIGHTING
•72” Aqualight Pro HQI - 3 X 150 10,000K HQI bulbs + 4 X 96 W Actinic 420nm Bulbs
LIVE ROCK - Currently 200 lbs. (Planning to finish off at 250 lbs.)
SUBSTRATE – 180 lbs Bio Active Live Aragonite Reef Sand.

 
sign guy

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by rdonnelly7
POWER HEADS
•5 – Maxi Jet 1200 (295GPH) Power Heads + head from return pump.
]
5!!! you should have gotton a wave2k!
 
rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
I am actually trying to post the fuge design, but I am an idiot and cannot figure out how to post an image. Any tips? Would you believe me if I told you my profession is an IT architect, and I cannot figure out how to post an image.
 
rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
Originally Posted by sign guy
5!!! you should have gotton a wave2k!
I actually am looking to replace the maxi's.
 
joncat24

joncat24

Active Member
Originally Posted by rdonnelly7
I actually am looking to replace the maxi's.
get two or three of the maxi's and mod them/3 low flow or 2 high flow mod kits and you will be set
 
sign guy

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by quads4_lif
Sounds good but I would ditch the bio balls and put more LR in its place
IMHO bio balls are better, they have more suface area and we are able clean bio balls keeping them from becoming nitrate factories
 
sign guy

sign guy

Active Member
once its saved in my pictures go to post replie then manage attachments then browse select your pic then upload. the oic needs to be 500 x 500 so you may need to down size it in paint
 
rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
I am looking to have it custom built by this guy who does custom acrylic sumps for a good price. I can email you his site. He has a ton of sumps that he custom built, really nice work.
I just bought an AquaC EV-180 skimmer. The guy who is building just revied the design and says he can't understand why the baffles go all the way to the top and why the other baffles are so small. Not being an expert, my reply was that it ensures water flow through the fuge and not across the surface over the baffle. And for the small baffles, I do not want to go much higher because I don't want my running water level to be too high because of the skimmer and to leave room for backflow when I shut off my pump.
 
rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
So there is absolutely nothing wrong with this design? I should build it as is? Thanks again for the information and helping me with the design.
 
sign guy

sign guy

Active Member
I think it is perfect. But remember there are ALOT of opinions about how to do things in this hobby and there is not always one correct answer but a few different ways that work fine. I love helping people design refugiums and my design comes from what worked berst for me and my group of freinds. dont be suprised to see someone who thinks that its different or dose not understand the design.
 
rdonnelly7

rdonnelly7

Member
The sump stand will add three inches of height to the sump (EV-180). This skimmer is designed to run in sump with a water level no higher than 8 or 9". The gate valve that returns water to the sump must not be submerged. I plan on running at about 12" so I need the additional height.
 
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