What is better a wet dry filter or canister filter?

dstorey

New Member
I was just looking for some input as to which filter of the 2 was better and why? I currently have a emporer 400 on my 90 gallon and seriously need to up grade was just wondering peoples opinions.
Thanks Dave
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Most folks here would say protien skimmer and live rock over either one. The protien skimmer will remove gunk from the aquarium before it has a chance to break down, instead of depending on a large surface area to break it down on. A canister is good for increasing circulation and running carbon when you need it. A wet/dry without the bioballs makes a good sump. If those were my only choices though, I'd go with the wet/dry over the canister.
 

dstorey

New Member
Thank you for the input. I have about 60 lbs of live rock in the system along with a prizm deluxe skimmer. I have had a problem with ich so i kept the salinity down around 1.009 so the skimmer was a little ineffective. I purchase a UV sterilizer to see if i could kick the ich problem. I also have had a problem with high phosphates and started treating the tank with PhosBan. Mainly im just trying to get a feel for $$ wise what is the best solution. Or if i even need to do anything like i said i just have the emperor 400 right now with phosban and carbon in there. Along with prizm protein skimmer with phosguard running in it. Anymore thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave
 

dstorey

New Member
Or would a fluidized bed running infront of the uv sterilizer do the trick for better filtration? Just another thought once again any info is appreciated.
 

d12monkey

Member

Originally posted by DStorey
salinity down around 1.009 so the skimmer was a little ineffective.

:eek: Isn't that a little tooooo low? Don't know too much about treatments but isn't that way below the normal levels of hyposalinity? 1.000 would be fresh water, correct me if I'm wrong. But 1.009 to me just a little too low. Any other corals in the tank or to you have a QT tank? Just my 2cents... if it's even worth that. :D
 

d12monkey

Member

Originally posted by richfish
well i think you need more live rock than sixty pounds for a 90 gallon tank....i would say at least 90 lbs but get another opion

I'm a strong believer in 2 lbs per gal minimum mentality. :D
 

dskidmore

Active Member

Originally posted by D12monkey
But 1.009 to me just a little too low.

That's the ammount that Beth recomends on the disease forum. Although it's generally recomended to be done in the QT tank so as to not damage the organisims on your live rock and any other invertabrates you may have.
As for live rock, I say 1-2 lbs per gallon, depending on the type of rock.
 

dstorey

New Member
As far as live rock goes i thought you couldnt add anymore once you have established your system. The reason why i kept the salinity that low was everytime i performed a water change my fish seemed to get ich. I just purchased the Tidepool 2 system off ---- for $58 so Im going to give that a try at least it gives me more room for mechanical filtration. But thanks everyone for the input.
Dave
 

dskidmore

Active Member
An established system can accept small ammounts of live rock at a time, or you can cure a bach of live rock in a seperate container before adding it to the aquarium.
Ich won't be removed by mechanical or biological filtration. Some people find UV effective, it can kill ick in one of it's life stages. (Some others don't approve of UV, as it may kill benificial critters as well, but most people who try it like it.)
Have you tired feeding garlic? Have you left the salinity at 1.009 for the full 3 weeks? There has to be a reason why your fish are stressed enough to come down with ick. A healthy, unstressed fish should be able to fight it off.
 
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