What is the easiest Coral to have?
- Thread starter ttran1999
- Start date
T
thomas712
Guest
Leathers, star and button polyps, colt corals, xena's.
Thomas
Thomas
T
thomas712
Guest
Red slime can get out of control and cover your corals blocking light, nutrients, and such so yes they can cause problems.
Before anyone says to use a chemical, of which there or several on the market. Save your money and first look for the cause of the cyno.
Could be your lighting.
Low circulation
Excess nutrients
No or not enough of a clean up crew
Water source
Many other factors
So tell us about your setup, lighting, filtration, water source, test results, skimmer or not.
Its all a matter of elimination of the cause and effect, find the cause and effect a cure
Thomas
Before anyone says to use a chemical, of which there or several on the market. Save your money and first look for the cause of the cyno.
Could be your lighting.
Low circulation
Excess nutrients
No or not enough of a clean up crew
Water source
Many other factors
So tell us about your setup, lighting, filtration, water source, test results, skimmer or not.
Its all a matter of elimination of the cause and effect, find the cause and effect a cure
Thomas
broncofish
Active Member
I agree battle the cyano then add more corals....
as for the easiest coral....OK bring on the flaming after I say this I'm ready............I put Xenia in a tub with 40g of freshly mixed SW, a heater a powerhead and a couple pieces of krill to Start a cycle on the water. I let it sit like that for 2 weeks, then moved it and another 40g worth of water into my 90g....added sand, then another 40g of water for the fuge. Added another 2 pieces of grocery store shrimp.....it is still alive...as 2 stalks instead of one. It is sitting under 80w of NO lighting. THis is going on month number 4. I plan on adding more stuff once my tank is at that aged point, I am going to put a couple clowns in, some more rock etc....the point being I believe xenia is darn near industructible.
as for the easiest coral....OK bring on the flaming after I say this I'm ready............I put Xenia in a tub with 40g of freshly mixed SW, a heater a powerhead and a couple pieces of krill to Start a cycle on the water. I let it sit like that for 2 weeks, then moved it and another 40g worth of water into my 90g....added sand, then another 40g of water for the fuge. Added another 2 pieces of grocery store shrimp.....it is still alive...as 2 stalks instead of one. It is sitting under 80w of NO lighting. THis is going on month number 4. I plan on adding more stuff once my tank is at that aged point, I am going to put a couple clowns in, some more rock etc....the point being I believe xenia is darn near industructible.
nm reef
Active Member
Well...I guess dead corals would be easiest....but rather pointless...heck even I can keep dead ones!!
But where is the challenge in a system full of dead stuff?
I'd say the corals mentioned already can be maintained in your system...but all corals need a stable/mature system that provides adaquate lighting/circulation/water chemistry. Before you attempt many more corals I'd suggest bringing your algae issues under control...if for no other reason than to provide a more stable environment for your corals.
NMREEF website
“Whiskey for my men...beer for my horses.”
nmreef@cox.net
But where is the challenge in a system full of dead stuff?
I'd say the corals mentioned already can be maintained in your system...but all corals need a stable/mature system that provides adaquate lighting/circulation/water chemistry. Before you attempt many more corals I'd suggest bringing your algae issues under control...if for no other reason than to provide a more stable environment for your corals.
“Whiskey for my men...beer for my horses.”
nmreef@cox.net
richard rendos
Active Member
1) get rid of the red slime before adding more corals
2) star polyps
3) zooanthids
4) xenia
5) colt coral
2) star polyps
3) zooanthids
4) xenia
5) colt coral
krishj39
Active Member
My vote for single easiest coral to keep alive is cabbage coral. I had a piece dissapear once, i found it over a month later, under a rock where it got zero light. It was still happy as can be, I re-attached it and all is still well (except my urchin decided to give it a taste test a few weeks ago).
Another ridiculously easy coral is capnella. It is similar in appearance to colt coral (may even be a type, i dunno). This stuff grows like a weed, and it doesn't have to be fragged, cause it frags itself when it gets big enough. I have it sprouting up all over my tank, and it's only been in there a few months.
My vote for easy and fairly attractive (I like the previous two mentioned but they aren't exactly show stoppers) is encrusting star polyps. They have several shades, I have some that is pink, some that is green and some that is blue and red. These aren't going to be centerpieces either, but I think they make great filler corals. They grow extremely quickly as well.
Pulsing xenia is a great choice, and is very easy once it is acclimated, but for the first month or so you have it, it's survival is hit and miss. Also, IME, they are among the most likely of all the corals to be munched on by other inhabitants.
Another ridiculously easy coral is capnella. It is similar in appearance to colt coral (may even be a type, i dunno). This stuff grows like a weed, and it doesn't have to be fragged, cause it frags itself when it gets big enough. I have it sprouting up all over my tank, and it's only been in there a few months.
My vote for easy and fairly attractive (I like the previous two mentioned but they aren't exactly show stoppers) is encrusting star polyps. They have several shades, I have some that is pink, some that is green and some that is blue and red. These aren't going to be centerpieces either, but I think they make great filler corals. They grow extremely quickly as well.
Pulsing xenia is a great choice, and is very easy once it is acclimated, but for the first month or so you have it, it's survival is hit and miss. Also, IME, they are among the most likely of all the corals to be munched on by other inhabitants.
radcast2
Member
I have only 160w of NO bulbs 1blue, 1 50/50, and 2 10k's (all 40w) and am looking for the low light corals. I decided to get the Sun Polyp as my first, it needs Low light but it demands husbandry, gotta target feed until the tentacles are long enough. I like it a lot and they adjust easily IMO, I bought one that was completely closed from my LFS and with in 4 hours of being in my tank it was alive. I will attach a picture of it for ya'll. I am thinking of getting a green pimple mushroom and maybe a green zoanthid later down the road.
I also just got a cyano outbreak, but very small and only in a section of the tank. I have good flow but my phosphates are at 1.1-1.2 so i am getting that down, and my nitrates went upto about 30 which after a 12g water went down to 5-10. Overfeeding will cause the cyano outbreaks as well, which is IMO why i have it.
But there are many chem's out there that will work just fine and take care of the problem as long as your tank other wise is okay. You can use Maracyn 2 (freshwater or slatwater tablets) or E.M. Tablets, there are liquid ones too like Kent's Poly-Ox. Keep in mind that the cyano is a bacterial infection with in your tank. Kill the bacteria and you kill the source, As long as your source ISNT low flow, overfeeding (=not enough cleanup crew). You cant kill the cause of those (well you can but what would we do with your tank after we burried you).
Good luck and if anyone can suggest a substitute for an anemone for my Gold Stripe Maroon that i can keep in my 160w of light i would be very greatful.
R.
I also just got a cyano outbreak, but very small and only in a section of the tank. I have good flow but my phosphates are at 1.1-1.2 so i am getting that down, and my nitrates went upto about 30 which after a 12g water went down to 5-10. Overfeeding will cause the cyano outbreaks as well, which is IMO why i have it.
But there are many chem's out there that will work just fine and take care of the problem as long as your tank other wise is okay. You can use Maracyn 2 (freshwater or slatwater tablets) or E.M. Tablets, there are liquid ones too like Kent's Poly-Ox. Keep in mind that the cyano is a bacterial infection with in your tank. Kill the bacteria and you kill the source, As long as your source ISNT low flow, overfeeding (=not enough cleanup crew). You cant kill the cause of those (well you can but what would we do with your tank after we burried you).
Good luck and if anyone can suggest a substitute for an anemone for my Gold Stripe Maroon that i can keep in my 160w of light i would be very greatful.
R.
overanalyzer
Active Member
radcast - I bought a bunch of LR from a reefer and I had some hairy shrooms under 18 watts of NO light (about 8-10 inches away from the coral) and they opened up and puffed up all nice and healthy - you might think about a hairy shroom of some sort and keep it near the top .....
I would not suggest using any chemicals - though I'd use a phosphate sponge. not sure what the maracyn contains but if it has copper in it that would be bad!
Lastly - that is a gorgeous coral! Not sure I'd have the patience to daily feed every opening!!!
I would not suggest using any chemicals - though I'd use a phosphate sponge. not sure what the maracyn contains but if it has copper in it that would be bad!
Lastly - that is a gorgeous coral! Not sure I'd have the patience to daily feed every opening!!!
radcast2
Member
Thanks overanalyzer, i will look into the hairy mushroom.
The Maracyn2 has no copper it is considered reef safe. The only difference between the Freshwater and the saltwater tablets is the saltwater as a vitamin for the fish to help keep up there strength. It is actually a treatment for fish. Cyano is a basterial infection so you can use erythromycin..which is the EM tablets and is also penicilyn. Most med's have some type of penicilyn in them. I do believe the cuase of the cyano is needed to be determined before any med's are introduced Sorry should have said that in other post). I am also using a phosphate pad. But there are other options.
Thanks for the complimant, it is very demanding but when you see it completely open, kinda take the demands away.
Rich
The Maracyn2 has no copper it is considered reef safe. The only difference between the Freshwater and the saltwater tablets is the saltwater as a vitamin for the fish to help keep up there strength. It is actually a treatment for fish. Cyano is a basterial infection so you can use erythromycin..which is the EM tablets and is also penicilyn. Most med's have some type of penicilyn in them. I do believe the cuase of the cyano is needed to be determined before any med's are introduced Sorry should have said that in other post). I am also using a phosphate pad. But there are other options.
Thanks for the complimant, it is very demanding but when you see it completely open, kinda take the demands away.
Rich
robofish
Member
My tank did a complete turn-around when I used the chemical treatment slime-away for red hair algae.
Of course I was working on getting the water stable and once it was there, the red hair stayed away without harsh algae removing chemicals.. The only adverse effect I saw with the slime away (other than the 8 hours your tank will appear yellowish) was my large leather closed up and stayed that way for 2 weeks. All is good, no red hair and looking good!!
Of course I was working on getting the water stable and once it was there, the red hair stayed away without harsh algae removing chemicals.. The only adverse effect I saw with the slime away (other than the 8 hours your tank will appear yellowish) was my large leather closed up and stayed that way for 2 weeks. All is good, no red hair and looking good!!
discusking
Member
ok dont get mad, but as for easiest coral in my experience is a red open brain coral. This thing has lived, not to mention prospered, through two tank cycles, and one tank crah, in which it was the only surviver, (not even the fish survived) The only reason i dont have it today, is because a pygmy angelfish ate it! Well thats just my opinion. Oh and if u get GSP, they will not open unless ur tank paremeters are ideal, i kinda use mine as a way to tell if all is not right in my tank, mine usually dont open if the water temp is too high or the nitrate exceeds 20 ppm.
