brokendeck
Active Member
What is this hard plastic hose named? Looking for the proper name for this hose. I broke mine today and i cant find one online. Prolly searching for the wrong thing. Thanks
What Is The Name Of This?
- Thread starter brokendeck
- Start date
What is this hard plastic hose named? Looking for the proper name for this hose. I broke mine today and i cant find one online. Prolly searching for the wrong thing. Thanks
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
It's a "Locline" made by "Rainbow."
brokendeck
Active Member
ty sir.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3496260
ty sir.
Welcome buddy! I hope you find what you are looking for. Share some pics of your creation sometime!
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3496260
ty sir.
Welcome buddy! I hope you find what you are looking for. Share some pics of your creation sometime!
brokendeck
Active Member
one question. when i buy these fittings. all mine are 1/2. when i buy the fittings do they need to be 3/4 so the 1/2 locline fits inside? idk if this locline is like other pvc pipe that uses the same size fittings. just wondering bc i dont wanna order the wrong size fittings lol
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
No, 1/2" locline fits 1/2" locline. 3/4" to 3/4" as long as you are buying ALL new parts - instead of using what you have to fit new parts onto it.
There is a small problem though, if you have older locline fittings, the new locline fittings may be slightly larger and not fit snug. In this case, you would need to purchase the main ball joint as well as the locline tubing and nozzle.
They have all different kinds of arrangements, nozzles and splittings. Experiment a little to see what your tank likes the best.
There is a small problem though, if you have older locline fittings, the new locline fittings may be slightly larger and not fit snug. In this case, you would need to purchase the main ball joint as well as the locline tubing and nozzle.
They have all different kinds of arrangements, nozzles and splittings. Experiment a little to see what your tank likes the best.
brokendeck
Active Member
i bought this tank 3 years ago. so i will prolly have to buy a new ball joint. gonna check LFS before i order it off the net. ill post some pics of my 2 tanks when i get a chance.
brokendeck
Active Member
i went ahead and bought all new parts just in case the parts i have dont interchange with each other. bought a different head as well to try out.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
That's awesome man. You know you can shorten those lines too if you need to... you can take out links as needed. Just letting you know. Let us know how everything turns out.
brokendeck
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497735
That's awesome man. You know you can shorten those lines too if you need to... you can take out links as needed. Just letting you know. Let us know how everything turns out.
yea i ended up taking 2 line pieces off both lines. trying a few different things to see what works best. have trouble with one dead spot. prolly gonna post a pic and see where u guys think i should aim my water lines for movement.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497735
That's awesome man. You know you can shorten those lines too if you need to... you can take out links as needed. Just letting you know. Let us know how everything turns out.
yea i ended up taking 2 line pieces off both lines. trying a few different things to see what works best. have trouble with one dead spot. prolly gonna post a pic and see where u guys think i should aim my water lines for movement.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
k, if you want, PM me when you get the pic posted. I'm interested to see your tank.
brokendeck
Active Member
here are 4 different pics. this is the tank im fighting the hiar algae as well. how would you position my water movement hoses?
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Your return pump hoses are fine... but you definitely need a couple more powerheads inside the tank. What flow you have simply isn't adequate enough.
To combat hair algae...
Use RO/DI water for top offs and for water changes
feed quality foods such as mysis or brine... and rinse it under tap before feeding. (a fish net is best for this)
Use a gravel vac to slowly siphon out your sandbed if you don't already have an established and mature sandbed.
Use a powerhead to deep clean your live rocks and blow off all of the debris before your water changes.
Use some carbon in the system.
If it gets too bad, use some GFO and turn the lights off for a week or two.
Add some macroalgae. Even though caulerpa may not make a tank look like a reef, it looks better than hair algae. Remove most of it often.
Proper water changes with clean water.
Lots of things you can do about it.
To combat hair algae...
Use RO/DI water for top offs and for water changes
feed quality foods such as mysis or brine... and rinse it under tap before feeding. (a fish net is best for this)
Use a gravel vac to slowly siphon out your sandbed if you don't already have an established and mature sandbed.
Use a powerhead to deep clean your live rocks and blow off all of the debris before your water changes.
Use some carbon in the system.
If it gets too bad, use some GFO and turn the lights off for a week or two.
Add some macroalgae. Even though caulerpa may not make a tank look like a reef, it looks better than hair algae. Remove most of it often.
Proper water changes with clean water.
Lots of things you can do about it.
brokendeck
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497756
Your return pump hoses are fine... but you definitely need a couple more powerheads inside the tank. What flow you have simply isn't adequate enough.
To combat hair algae...
Use RO/DI water for top offs and for water changes
feed quality foods such as mysis or brine... and rinse it under tap before feeding. (a fish net is best for this)
Use a gravel vac to slowly siphon out your sandbed if you don't already have an established and mature sandbed.
Use a powerhead to deep clean your live rocks and blow off all of the debris before your water changes.
Use some carbon in the system.
If it gets too bad, use some GFO and turn the lights off for a week or two.
Add some macroalgae. Even though caulerpa may not make a tank look like a reef, it looks better than hair algae. Remove most of it often.
Proper water changes with clean water.
Lots of things you can do about it.
sometimes i use ro/di water/when i run out i use api stress coat.
the only food i feed is mysis/brine/bloodworms.
gravel vac everything i water change.
used a turkey baster to clean debris off of rock for the 1st time today.
no carbon in my system.
whats gfo? do i still feed the tank if i leave the lights out? will the hair algae die off if i kill the source of it?
no macroalgae in the tank.
i do water changes every 2 weeks.( the last few days ive done a 5 gallon changed every 3 days to try and get rid of algae.
also where would you put the extra powerhead? what gph koralia would you put in my tank? one in my return is a 400gph
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497756
Your return pump hoses are fine... but you definitely need a couple more powerheads inside the tank. What flow you have simply isn't adequate enough.
To combat hair algae...
Use RO/DI water for top offs and for water changes
feed quality foods such as mysis or brine... and rinse it under tap before feeding. (a fish net is best for this)
Use a gravel vac to slowly siphon out your sandbed if you don't already have an established and mature sandbed.
Use a powerhead to deep clean your live rocks and blow off all of the debris before your water changes.
Use some carbon in the system.
If it gets too bad, use some GFO and turn the lights off for a week or two.
Add some macroalgae. Even though caulerpa may not make a tank look like a reef, it looks better than hair algae. Remove most of it often.
Proper water changes with clean water.
Lots of things you can do about it.
sometimes i use ro/di water/when i run out i use api stress coat.
the only food i feed is mysis/brine/bloodworms.
gravel vac everything i water change.
used a turkey baster to clean debris off of rock for the 1st time today.
no carbon in my system.
whats gfo? do i still feed the tank if i leave the lights out? will the hair algae die off if i kill the source of it?
no macroalgae in the tank.
i do water changes every 2 weeks.( the last few days ive done a 5 gallon changed every 3 days to try and get rid of algae.
also where would you put the extra powerhead? what gph koralia would you put in my tank? one in my return is a 400gph
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497758
sometimes i use ro/di water/when i run out i use api stress coat.
the only food i feed is mysis/brine/bloodworms.
gravel vac everything i water change.
used a turkey baster to clean debris off of rock for the 1st time today.
no carbon in my system.
whats gfo? do i still feed the tank if i leave the lights out? will the hair algae die off if i kill the source of it?
no macroalgae in the tank.
i do water changes every 2 weeks.( the last few days ive done a 5 gallon changed every 3 days to try and get rid of algae.
Use RO/DI water all the time... invest in an RO/DI Unit for your home. Good drinking water, cooking water, baby formula water, bunch of ways you can use it besides the fish tank. Adding Tap or even dechlorinated tap is adding nitrates and phosphates to your tank.... which is/can be what is fueling your hair algae problem.
If you feed these foods, you know that they also have "juice" that come with them. Rinse the juice out before feeding.
That's great that you gravel vac. Keep it up.
Keep using that baster.
Run that carbon!
GFO = granular ferric oxide - it chemically binds phosphates - which is a nutrient used by algae to grow and reproduce. using GFO in conjunction with clean top off water and two weeks of no lights should get rid of the hair algae.
If all else fails, build yourself an algae scrubber.
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497758
sometimes i use ro/di water/when i run out i use api stress coat.
the only food i feed is mysis/brine/bloodworms.
gravel vac everything i water change.
used a turkey baster to clean debris off of rock for the 1st time today.
no carbon in my system.
whats gfo? do i still feed the tank if i leave the lights out? will the hair algae die off if i kill the source of it?
no macroalgae in the tank.
i do water changes every 2 weeks.( the last few days ive done a 5 gallon changed every 3 days to try and get rid of algae.
Use RO/DI water all the time... invest in an RO/DI Unit for your home. Good drinking water, cooking water, baby formula water, bunch of ways you can use it besides the fish tank. Adding Tap or even dechlorinated tap is adding nitrates and phosphates to your tank.... which is/can be what is fueling your hair algae problem.
If you feed these foods, you know that they also have "juice" that come with them. Rinse the juice out before feeding.
That's great that you gravel vac. Keep it up.
Keep using that baster.
Run that carbon!
GFO = granular ferric oxide - it chemically binds phosphates - which is a nutrient used by algae to grow and reproduce. using GFO in conjunction with clean top off water and two weeks of no lights should get rid of the hair algae.
If all else fails, build yourself an algae scrubber.
brokendeck
Active Member
also where would you put the extra powerhead? what gph koralia would you put in my tank? thinking about putting in a 240gph koralia. one in my return is a 400gph. would that be enough flow?
just curious but what is the point of having carbon in your tank? what does it do? what brand of carbon? im fighting phosphate problems and ive read that carbon makes your phosphates go up.
just curious but what is the point of having carbon in your tank? what does it do? what brand of carbon? im fighting phosphate problems and ive read that carbon makes your phosphates go up.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
How many gallons is your tank? I can't really make any powerhead recommendations, honestly. Each tank is different and requires different flow patterns. It's one of those things that I kinda have to do in person. Without really knowing just how big your tank is, it's hard to really recommend anything at all.
I have an expensive fish and a cheap fix. The expensive fix is the absolute best - and can be used for years and years and keeps its value... which would be a Vortech MP10 powerhead. It's about $260. It creates waves, turbulent currents and is programmable. It has a nutrient export mode to kick up detritus before a water change. Nifty little gadget, but a gadget none the less.
The cheap fix is actually replacing the loc line that you JUST purchased with a "Hydra Aquatics Nano Vortex Flow Spinner" which is about $13. It creates random flow in the tank and it doesn't use any more electricity to operate. There is one other piece of equipment that I suggest using in conjunction with the spinner, is a maxi jet 1200 powerhead (~$20) with a hydor oscillator or what they are calling a "hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector" (~$11) these days. Placement of the powerhead depends on where your dead spots are in the tank... which is pretty much everything in the front of the tank.
What carbon does is it absorbs toxins and chemicals, it absorbs yellow tint of the water caused by the algae (Which you will need for the following paragraph), It will also absorb some dissolved organic materials that cause algae outbreaks.
---
IF you want a quick fix, which I do not advocate immensely,... take all of your rock out --- hair algae and all --- clean the surfaces of the tank on the inside and get rid of as much algae as possible. Keep the rock wet. Put the rock in a bucket and pour hydrogen peroxide over the top of them... making sure you get it on all of the algae. Then put it back in the tank and arrange the rock in a manner that will give you better flow patterns. The algae will turn white and die in a couple of days. Run carbon. Do a water change then and leave the lights off for a few more days. you can feed your fish too, just kinda cut back on it a bit.
If you don't want the hair algae to return, invest in a powerhead and the attachment, get yourself an RO/DI unit and if you have the extra money, run a little GFO and carbon in a two little fishies phosphate reactor.
I have an expensive fish and a cheap fix. The expensive fix is the absolute best - and can be used for years and years and keeps its value... which would be a Vortech MP10 powerhead. It's about $260. It creates waves, turbulent currents and is programmable. It has a nutrient export mode to kick up detritus before a water change. Nifty little gadget, but a gadget none the less.
The cheap fix is actually replacing the loc line that you JUST purchased with a "Hydra Aquatics Nano Vortex Flow Spinner" which is about $13. It creates random flow in the tank and it doesn't use any more electricity to operate. There is one other piece of equipment that I suggest using in conjunction with the spinner, is a maxi jet 1200 powerhead (~$20) with a hydor oscillator or what they are calling a "hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector" (~$11) these days. Placement of the powerhead depends on where your dead spots are in the tank... which is pretty much everything in the front of the tank.
What carbon does is it absorbs toxins and chemicals, it absorbs yellow tint of the water caused by the algae (Which you will need for the following paragraph), It will also absorb some dissolved organic materials that cause algae outbreaks.
---
IF you want a quick fix, which I do not advocate immensely,... take all of your rock out --- hair algae and all --- clean the surfaces of the tank on the inside and get rid of as much algae as possible. Keep the rock wet. Put the rock in a bucket and pour hydrogen peroxide over the top of them... making sure you get it on all of the algae. Then put it back in the tank and arrange the rock in a manner that will give you better flow patterns. The algae will turn white and die in a couple of days. Run carbon. Do a water change then and leave the lights off for a few more days. you can feed your fish too, just kinda cut back on it a bit.
If you don't want the hair algae to return, invest in a powerhead and the attachment, get yourself an RO/DI unit and if you have the extra money, run a little GFO and carbon in a two little fishies phosphate reactor.
brokendeck
Active Member
do you have a Vortech MP10? i think im gonna go that way instead of the cheap way. my question about the pump, is it just a wavemaker? or wavemaker and koralia combine(ex.)? i kn ow i sound like a idiot but i dont wanna buy something im not gonna like.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497878
do you have a Vortech MP10? i think im gonna go that way instead of the cheap way. my question about the pump, is it just a wavemaker? or wavemaker and koralia combine(ex.)? i kn ow i sound like a idiot but i dont wanna buy something im not gonna like.
the wavemaker is powered by your return pump. no, i do not have a mp10.
Originally Posted by Brokendeck http:///t/393203/what-is-the-name-of-this#post_3497878
do you have a Vortech MP10? i think im gonna go that way instead of the cheap way. my question about the pump, is it just a wavemaker? or wavemaker and koralia combine(ex.)? i kn ow i sound like a idiot but i dont wanna buy something im not gonna like.
the wavemaker is powered by your return pump. no, i do not have a mp10.
brokendeck
Active Member
so it just basically moves the water around the tank from the pumps you already have running? thought it was like a koralia with upgrades.