What's happening to my Acan?

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by Kraylen
http:///forum/post/3204186
Seems you don't know how it makes sense either. I KNOW what interceptor is.... I've been using interceptor for a while when needed.. I'm just confused to how interceptor is going to stop your acans from dying considering it is a inverticide when introduced to our reefs.
Now, if the interceptor was killing something that was attacking the acans... sure, makes sense... but since you can't even explain anything to me I'll just assume you don't know what you're talking about.

Um, Interceptor also contains some iodine. It's a trace amount, but it's there.
I wasn't trying to be smug, but so many people don't know what an "Interceptor Dip" is.

[hr]
Spanko, I've read the same thing about Alk and acans, don't know why it is the case, but maybe? Maybe the poster on my forum, just copied what he was saying?

The OP needs to answer questions before anyone jumps to conclusions about what caused this.
 

jw1977

Member
The Alk was 8.0, Caclium 400, and Mag 1140. I have no idea what an interceptor dip, can you please explain. The fish I have are 2 clowns, firefish, blenny, hawkfish. By the way i've had the acan for a year.
 

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by BTLDreef
http:///forum/post/3203721
What size tank?
What type of lights?
How old is the tank?
Please post water parameters.
How long have you had this acan?
What else is in your tank (fish/coral/inverts)?

Originally Posted by fishhunter
http:///forum/post/3203535
How much light do you have? What are the params of your tank?

Originally Posted by jw1977

http:///forum/post/3204325
The Alk was 8.0, Caclium 400, and Mag 1140. I have no idea what an interceptor dip, can you please explain. The fish I have are 2 clowns, firefish, blenny, hawkfish. By the way i've had the acan for a year.
We need to know all your parameters. More importantly than what you've posted so far are: Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, salinity, phosphates, water temp, flow and lighting (type, wattage, etc)
Interceptor is actually a medication for dogs and cats that prevents Heartworm. It comes in little flavor tabs, you'll only need a small amount, but you usually have to get it from a vet. Good "interceptor dip for corals" there's a couple videos on youtube about it as well.
From personal experience I can tell you that Acans don't like big swings in parameters, so how often you test and how consistent the tests are is very helpful.
I would do the dip, if you can get your hands on some interceptor. If not, try a "coral revive" type of dip, again, google is your friend. Some people simply take out the coral and dip in water with a high amount of vitamins for salt water fish/coral/inverts. Do this for a couple days and keep it in a lower flow area. It's 50/50 though, depending on how far gone it is.
You've had this piece for a year, so it's not a fragging error and just needs time to heal.
Have you ever fed it?
I would venture a guess that your blenny or hawkfish might have been perching on it more than it wanted as well. Your blenny may also have tried to eat it thinking it was algae (some do this to corals).
 

jw1977

Member
Sorry I haven't responded quicker. My Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate are all at zero. My ph is 8.0. Salinity is 1.025, water temp 79-80. Lighting is T5HO. I never have fed it, should i try this?
 

btldreef

Moderator
We still need to know what your alkalinity is. Your kit, might call it Carbonate Hardness or dKH.
I've always fed my acans, at least once a week.
I would dip, at this point it can't hurt.
 

jw1977

Member
Yes, it's the only LPS. No i haven't added any other corals. Should I try an Iodine dip? If so, can someone give me directions on how to do it? Thanks.
 

bms

Member
Originally Posted by jw1977
http:///forum/post/3204325
The Alk was 8.0, Caclium 400, and Mag 1140. I have no idea what an interceptor dip, can you please explain. The fish I have are 2 clowns, firefish, blenny, hawkfish. By the way i've had the acan for a year.
was the alkalinity 8.0 or your pH 8.0? because you posted two posts one saying your "pH was 8.0" and the other saying that your "alk was 8.0". there is a difference between the two:
"The degree to which a solution maintains its pH when acid is added is termed the "alkalinity" of the solution. Related terms used in reference to aquariums are carbonate or calcium hardness, and its German equivalent, KH or dKH. The amount of "buffers" in sea water determines the alkalinity."
Therefore your alkalinity level will be your buffering system which is what keeps your pH at a constant rate. The higher amount of bicarbonate (now dont go adding loads and loads or you can overshoot your desired pH and have negative results with your corals--i believe its only 1 teaspoon mixed in a glass of freshwater for every 20-30 gallons for the kent marine superbuffer dKH) in your system the more your tank will be able to tolerate pH changes when it begins to drop. Your alkalinity will help to keep you from getting dramatic drops in pH.
If i remember from my chem and ochem and understand correctly, adding bicarbonate (aka baking soda or i know there are other "saltwater aquarium specific" brands on the market (like Kent Marine Super-Buffer-dKH which is what i use and claims to "raise and STABILIZE your pH") will raise amount of buffer in your system (which allows this buffering system to work properly at the proper pH) and also helps to keep it at a consistent pH by buffering your solution by up-taking excess dissociated H+ ions. When water and carbon dioxide combine (H2O + CO2 it forms H2CO3 (carbonic acid). Well the problem with this is that when below equilibrium (H2CO3>hCO3-), the H+ molecule will dissociate forming HCO3- + H+ (H+ is acidic because of the H+ oxidizing everything and destroying your tank, the stronger--or lower the pH--of the acid the more dissociation of H+ ions will result) so if you do not have enough of the bicarbonate or you are at the equilibrium point or below, HCO3- which is the salt of carbonic acid is unable to uptake the excess H+ ions, so your pH will lower because of the excess hydronium ions. SO when any acid is added (acidity is based on the amount of dissociation of hydronium ions aka H+) whether intentionally or unintentionally, the hydrogen molecule will then dissociate into the water to form H+ thus resulting in a lowered pH. Well having a buffering system--by adding more of that salt of the acid (aka bicarbonate because in our tanks our main acid that dissociates its H+ molecule which lowers our tanks pH without a buffer is carbonic acid--from CO2 + H2O). When we are in equilibrium or below it, the extra H+ molecules floating around will either lower the pH--or by adding bicarbonate will accept the H+ ions and inturn raise/maintain the pH by allowing this salt of the carbonic acid to uptake that extra hydrogen molecule--so doing this will thus result in little or no pH change in your system; depending on how much H+ your system can buffer which is directly related to the amount of bicarbonate in your system.
When the H2CO3 / HCO3- system is at a pH that allows existence of significant amounts of both molecular (undissociated) and dissociated (H+ = hydrogen ion that has split off) forms, it resists a change in pH by undergoing a change in relative concentrations (ie the H+'s will be uptaken by HC03- (bicarbonate) to form H2C03-(carbonic acid) which is a weak acid and will not be able to dissociate the H+ ion because there is an shift in the equilibrium due to an abundance of carbonate molecules which are able to uptake the H+ ions and convert that to H2CO3 which throws off the eqiulibrium in favor of the bicarbonate (good thing) and will maintain your pH because all the H+ ions floating around are quickly uptaken by the bicarbonate. When acid (H+) is added to a buffer solution, the resulting change in pH is less than it would have been if the buffer were not present.
Hope i didnt confuse you or anyone else and i hope all of my information is correct, its been a year or three since i last took general chem and this isnt a major topic in ochem because you are expected to know this. good luck to yah. i would recommend the powder form of Kent Marine Super-Buffer dKH or others out there, just do a little research on them.
 

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by bms
http:///forum/post/3214040
was the alkalinity 8.0 or your pH 8.0? because you posted two posts one saying your "pH was 8.0" and the other saying that your "alk was 8.0" (which sounds a little high...depending on the units, i believe the alk should be around 2.7 to 4.5).
.
I think he meant that his dKH reading is at 8. I sincerely hope it's not 2.7-4.5....
Reef tanks should keep KH 8-12, commonly called alkalinity.
 

jw1977

Member
I still would like to try an iodine dip on this. Can someone tell me exactly what to do? I 've tried searching but can't find exact instructions
 

btldreef

Moderator
Depending on which brand you buy each one is a little different. You're going to have to buy one and follow the directions.
 
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