freeweights
Member
what's the name of
- Thread starter freeweights
- Start date
mrdonkeyazz
Member
You might be talking about a GCFI outlet that replaces the regular outlet in the wall. They use them in kitchens and bathrooms where a lot of water is present. They are reasonably inexpensive and anyone can put them in.
freeweights
Member
Originally Posted by mrdonkeyazz
http:///forum/post/2768542
You might be talking about a GCFI outlet that replaces the regular outlet in the wall. They use them in kitchens and bathrooms where a lot of water is present. They are reasonably inexpensive and anyone can put them in.
can you tell me what it looks like? Do I just ask for a GCFI does it plug into the outlet or do I have to remove the wall plug from the wall?
http:///forum/post/2768542
You might be talking about a GCFI outlet that replaces the regular outlet in the wall. They use them in kitchens and bathrooms where a lot of water is present. They are reasonably inexpensive and anyone can put them in.
saltn00b
Active Member
as long as the house is moderately new and built to code it should be a very quick and easy job. just shut the power off at the breaker, unscrew face plate, unscrew recepticle, remove wires, attatch wires to new GFCI recepticle,
[hr]
in and, replace faceplate.
search is your friend.
non GFCI
GFCI
Ground fault interrupters (GFI) or ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) are designed to protect you from electrical shock. The most common locations to find GFCI outlets in a house are in the kitchen and bathrooms. But current code requires them for all exterior outlets, garages, in the utility area of a basement plus at pools and Jacuzzi tubs. Anywhere you can touch an outlet and water or touch an outlet and stand on the ground.
They work by interrupting the household circuit when there is a difference in 120 volt recepticlethe currents in the "hot" and "neutral" wires. Such a difference indicates that an abnormal diversion of current from the "hot" wire is occurring. Such a current might be flowing in the "ground" wire, such as a leakage current from a motor or from capacitors. More importantly, that current diversion may be occurring because a person has come into contact with the "hot" wire and is being shocked. When a circuit is functioning normally, all the return current from an appliance flows through the "neutral" wire, so the presence of a difference between "hot" and "neutral" currents represents a malfunction that in some circumstances could produce a dangerous or even lethal shock hazard.
GFCI recepticleGFCIs are easily spotted by their distinctive face. Normally there are two buttons in the middle of the face, a red test button and a black reset button. Sometimes the buttons are both the same color, either ivory or white. Determining if a circuit is ground fault protected is not as easy as simply spotting it the buttons because the ground fault interrupter may be located somewhere else like another bathroom, in the basement, or in the main circuit panel box. If properly wired, outlets downstream from a GFCI will be protected.
So why do I need a GFCI if I already have a circuit breaker?
GFCIs are designed to trip in approx. 1/40 of a second in the event of a ground fault of 0.005 ampere. This is important because circuit breakers are designed to only trip once the circuit has exceeded the designed amount of ampere (or amps), which is usually 15 or 20 amps. Manufactures of GFCI devices state that the GFCI outlets should be tested at least once a month to ensure proper function ability.
So how many amps does it take to hurt you?
The primary variable for determining the severity of electric shock is the electric current which passes through the body. This current is of course dependent upon the voltage and the resistance of the path it follows through the body. An approximate general framework for shock effects is as follows:
Electric Current
(1 second contact)
Physiological Effect
1 ma
Threshold of feeling, tingling sensation.
10-20 ma
"Can't let go!" current - onset of sustained
muscular contraction.
100-300 ma
Ventricular fibrillation, fatal if continued.
[hr]
in and, replace faceplate.
search is your friend.
non GFCI
GFCI
Ground fault interrupters (GFI) or ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) are designed to protect you from electrical shock. The most common locations to find GFCI outlets in a house are in the kitchen and bathrooms. But current code requires them for all exterior outlets, garages, in the utility area of a basement plus at pools and Jacuzzi tubs. Anywhere you can touch an outlet and water or touch an outlet and stand on the ground.
They work by interrupting the household circuit when there is a difference in 120 volt recepticlethe currents in the "hot" and "neutral" wires. Such a difference indicates that an abnormal diversion of current from the "hot" wire is occurring. Such a current might be flowing in the "ground" wire, such as a leakage current from a motor or from capacitors. More importantly, that current diversion may be occurring because a person has come into contact with the "hot" wire and is being shocked. When a circuit is functioning normally, all the return current from an appliance flows through the "neutral" wire, so the presence of a difference between "hot" and "neutral" currents represents a malfunction that in some circumstances could produce a dangerous or even lethal shock hazard.
GFCI recepticleGFCIs are easily spotted by their distinctive face. Normally there are two buttons in the middle of the face, a red test button and a black reset button. Sometimes the buttons are both the same color, either ivory or white. Determining if a circuit is ground fault protected is not as easy as simply spotting it the buttons because the ground fault interrupter may be located somewhere else like another bathroom, in the basement, or in the main circuit panel box. If properly wired, outlets downstream from a GFCI will be protected.
So why do I need a GFCI if I already have a circuit breaker?
GFCIs are designed to trip in approx. 1/40 of a second in the event of a ground fault of 0.005 ampere. This is important because circuit breakers are designed to only trip once the circuit has exceeded the designed amount of ampere (or amps), which is usually 15 or 20 amps. Manufactures of GFCI devices state that the GFCI outlets should be tested at least once a month to ensure proper function ability.
So how many amps does it take to hurt you?
The primary variable for determining the severity of electric shock is the electric current which passes through the body. This current is of course dependent upon the voltage and the resistance of the path it follows through the body. An approximate general framework for shock effects is as follows:
Electric Current
(1 second contact)
Physiological Effect
1 ma
Threshold of feeling, tingling sensation.
10-20 ma
"Can't let go!" current - onset of sustained
muscular contraction.
100-300 ma
Ventricular fibrillation, fatal if continued.
If you dont want to go the route of replacing you outlet you can get an external GFCI as well. It looks like a really short extension cord. You plug it into your regular outlet and then plug your equipment into the other end. There is a circuit interrupt built into it. These sell for about $30 or so at Home Depot or Lowes
freeweights
Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2768560
as long as the house is moderately new and built to code it should be a very quick and easy job. just shut the power off at the breaker, unscrew face plate, unscrew recepticle, remove wires, attatch wires to new GFCI recepticle,
[hr]
in and, replace faceplate.
search is your friend.
non GFCI
GFCI
Well i thank you for that info... I have been rather nervous about all thoes wires near the tanks and what would happen in the event of the tank going over or the refug malfuntioning and the wires even though I have them up off of the floor as much as possible and the water somhow reaches the plugs and I come out of the bedroom and run over to the tank to see what's going on and step in water POW. Not to good to think about . So what you;r saying that this should put my mind at ease. That the circuit for that receptacle should pop when any water hits it? before my feet hits the ground.? Don ,also from the sunshine State
http:///forum/post/2768560
as long as the house is moderately new and built to code it should be a very quick and easy job. just shut the power off at the breaker, unscrew face plate, unscrew recepticle, remove wires, attatch wires to new GFCI recepticle,
[hr]
in and, replace faceplate.
search is your friend.
non GFCI
GFCI
Well i thank you for that info... I have been rather nervous about all thoes wires near the tanks and what would happen in the event of the tank going over or the refug malfuntioning and the wires even though I have them up off of the floor as much as possible and the water somhow reaches the plugs and I come out of the bedroom and run over to the tank to see what's going on and step in water POW. Not to good to think about . So what you;r saying that this should put my mind at ease. That the circuit for that receptacle should pop when any water hits it? before my feet hits the ground.? Don ,also from the sunshine State
freeweights
Member
one other question for you. I have 3 tanks set up in my livingroom 2 fresh 1 salt. The entire livingroom is on one curcuit breaker. Will I have to get three of these GFCI ? to protect all 3 tanks? Or will one protect all of the tanks being they are all on one curcuit? thank I appreciate all you'r imput Don
mr_x
Active Member
i have ground fault interrupt outlets on my tanks. once i had an issue with a heater breaking inside the sump. it never tripped the breaker. actually...it looked like underwater welding in the sump. a massive super bright light in the sump, and i heard bzzzzzzzt! until i shut the breaker down myself. the gfci was melted, and i had to replace it.
i don't have alot of faith in them now.
i don't have alot of faith in them now.
floridacatfish
Member
I put a GFCI in by myself. They come with instructions and aren't difficult to install. Just make sure you buy the right size (amps) and have the power to the outlet off before installing. It took me about 5 minutes to put it in. Go to your local Home Depot, Lowes, etc & they'll point you in the right direction.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I've had lights fall into the water, exposed wires accidently fall in, heaters bust, powerheads melt, air pumps suck in water, certain powerheads have electrical charges, ... all sorts of horrible and nasty things happen to me.
I'm glad I have GFCI's on all of my things. Just make sure you buy the right GFCI unit to the right amps and you're ready to go.
I'm glad I have GFCI's on all of my things. Just make sure you buy the right GFCI unit to the right amps and you're ready to go.