Who does constant water changes?

I have seen setups where people have a drain pipe constantly letting water leave the aquarium and it gets replinished with more saltwater. I'm very interested in doing this instead of weekly changes. It seems like it would be beneficial keeping trace elemants replinished.
Now I have two garbage cans in my garage right behind my tank. One fresh and one salt. I have an ATO setup in the fresh. I have several questions.
How could I setup something to constantly drain water and then have the saltwater constatly replinish without the freshwater topping off?
If anyone is doing this please reply
Thanks!
Ryan
 
S

shrimpy brains

Guest
Interesting......I'll take a stab at it.......
Seems to me, you would have to add a drilled overflow, either to DT or fuge. Put a ball valve on it so you can slow it to a trickle. The tricky part is figuring exactly how much is coming out so you can match it perfectly with replacement water. Get an appropriately sized pump and maybe add ball valve to that. This water needs to go to same container (fuge or tank) that you are draining water out of. If you can match perfectly, the freshwater ATO should
still do it's job correctly. I would defininitly monitor salinity in the beginning!

I'm sure this is much easier said than done. Good luck!! And buy a lot of salt!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
There's a machine that does this. I forgot the name of the machine that does it, but I'm sure researching enough it will turn up. The machine sucks up saltwater, uses reverse osmosis to constantly clean the water, and then a brine solution of saltwater that is pre-mixed is then added back to the tank. The machine keeps control of temp, salinity, auto top off, and a whole slew of other things. The last time I researched it, it cost a few thousand dollars - which was not worth the benefits in a small home aquarium - but worth it for much larger applications such as a commercial aquarium or aquarium of the americas type of setup.
 

spanko

Active Member
I remember reading this from Anthony Calfo a while back.
"its rather easy...
you have your evap top off device set wherever you want/need the water level in the sump proper (last and lowest sump compartment).
Set the evap float swithc so that it is very finely sensitive (frequently doses small amounts) but is fed by a VERY slow pump (extreme here... 1/4" airline or icemaker line style stream... mere gallons per day rate of speed)
Then you have your auto water change overflow hole drilled either a) slightly higher than the evap-top off level by say... not more than 1/2", or b) drilled at the same level as the evap top off level but with an adjustable elbow that allows you to change the overflow level (my recommendation)
Thus... with the overflow hole/height being less than half inch over the evap-top off level... you can auto (timer) pump new and slightly cooler seawater (no more than 2F cooler) into the display tank which will displace warmer aged water to the sump and out/over the overflow hole! Automatic water change.
And from a waiting/reserve vat (barrel/buckets... whatever) of new seawater... your auto-timer (digital from Radio Shack, for example) can be programmed to do daily, weekly, etc water changes as you wish! Sit down once and calculate how many gallons per day/week you want to change... and how many gallons per minute the pump you use for make-up will push. Simple math.
Then... after just a little bit of evaporation (after each auto water change that bullrushes the sump and overflow hole) the sump proper resumes normal evap top off operations in wait for next auto-water change, which will again slightly overun the evap top off level by just 1/2" or less
Now you may be wondering... isn't that slight overun (<1/2" over float switch level) adding a little bit of salt to the tank and increasing my salinity slowly over time? Well... theoretically yes. But if you will worry about that, then are you also calculating the similarly lost salt due to salt creep? Heehe... point is, either way its a small amount of salt. And either way, with or without salt added or exported (creep)... you still need to make slight corrections over time to the tank by checking salinity. If its a big deal (large sump)... you can compensate then by making your new seawater used for auto-water changes just slightly less saline.
And voila... automatic water changes!"
 

spanko

Active Member
And then this from net pets.
" Automatic water changers are now being installed more and more frequently , and are both simple to set up, and inexpensive to acquire. Check the diagram below for more information :
Notes of importance :
- To install an automatic water changer, you need to be able to drain the excess water that will accumulate. This requires either that it flow into a vat of some sort, to a water drain in the floor, or to a sink (by means of a small pump and hose or pipe).
- Since, more than likely, only a very small amount of water will need to be changed, you will only need a very low output pump. That is the reason a power head type pump can easily be used. Often even the smallest ones will do.
- I recommend using a digital timer. Such timers can be set to trigger at on/off cycles of very short intervals, for example, 1 or 2 or 3 minutes. Mechanical timers usually work only in 15 or 20 minute intervals. Letting the pump run for that long may move more water than you want to, especially if you keep a small tank. Indeed, if you have a 55 gallon tank for example, and you wish to change 1 percent of the water per day, you will want to change only 0.55 gallons, meaning about half a gallon. That is not very much, and only very small pumps, running for a very short amount of time will allow you to do so.
If your pump still moves too much water, notwithstanding the digital timer's setting to its minimum cycle (usually 1 minute), put a C-clamp on the output hose of the pump or power head, and close it gradually more and more, until the right amount of water is moved from the reserve vat to the tank (or sump), in the minimum on/off cycle your timer allows. In fact, anything that restricts the output of the pump, respectively power head, used, will do the job. Small ball valves, shut-off valves, and the like can be used, but be sure that they contain no metal parts, except 316 SS.
- I suggest that you do place an airstone in the reserve vat to keep the water moving around. This will keep it properly mixed and also oxygenated. Water reserve vats must be cleaned from time to time. I suggest at least once a month. This will prevent sediment from accumulating, and possibly breaking down into undesirable compounds.
- Since this is "water-changing" water, it has to be prepared first, and salt added. Preferably use a salt that is low in phosphates, nitrates, and other impurities. Most nationally sold brands are excellent of course. We use Tech-Reef Salt and Hawaiian Marine Mix on an alternating basis, and supplement with Reef-Elements, Vita-Trace, KSM, Iodine Supplement, and the new "Tech-Liquid-Gold" very special nutrient for fish and corals."
 

chana

Member
Anybody see a problem with this?
Very interesting and sounds simple. I am considering doing this seems like it would work great for me. I have about 320 gallons total so if i would do 2 gallons a day that would be a 20% change every month.
Please post if you see a problem with automatic water changes like this
 
Spanko your awesome!! You filled in all my answers, I'm gonna start with the next week, and I can easily run an overflow line from my sump to my garage and down my driveway.
Now.....do you guys think this will be better for my reef?
 
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