Who uses/ has an RO system... who uses tap water? BE HONEST

[dockery07]

I have one of those RainSoft water things on the side of my house. our water goes through 100lbs of salt and filters before it gets into the house so I use tap water. although sometimes I use water from the LFS if I am not in the mood to make water.

 

[hairtrigger]

Dockery, that's cool. Sounds like you basically have a ginormous RO unit attatched to your house. I feel your laziness though.
Jackson, let me know if this water change makes a difference in anything from your past tap experiences. Good luck with the investment.
Slothy... is that why my algae growth (besides cyano, when that happens) is brown instead of green? That doesn't mean anything bad does it? Cause my magnavore destroys it.

 

[jjboods]

I stopped my reef tank and returned the 2-3 corals I had because I was tired of going to the LFS for RO water. I have tested my tap water in the past...no ammonia, trites or trates, but phosphates were not zero. I don't have an algae probelm, however. The tank has been fine and the fish, inverts and anemone seem happy and healthy. Do you guys think I could try corals without RO water?

 

[jim672]

I used to use tap water but found that every fall-winter-spring I'd have horrible algea problems. I used to have to clean the glass every other day to see in! I talked to a guy I trust at an LFS and he suggested that my water authority may be adding to chemicals, at that time of year, to insure there's no icing in the water system. He suggested an RO unit.
Now, my tank is only a 45 so I bought a portable one. The unit was $50 and the filters are $20. A filter lasts 50 to 100 gallons but since I use 5 gallons when I do water changes, it lasts awhile.
No more cold weather algea for me!!
Jim

 

[fusd71]

I use tap water. I really have had no problems and as RYEBREAD, I keep a rubbermaid container and a powerhead going for about 4-5 days before i do my water change. I will get readings from my bro-inlaw who works for the water company and post them.

 

[mlm]

I started with tap water and then had a huge outbreak of Red Slime so ever since then I bought my own RO unit.

 

[saltyrich]

I used tap, and the tap here in the desert is crap. Algae in a hurry. I now use RO/DI water from the grocery store across the street. I bought a bunch of it in the store and keep going back to the machine outside the store and refill my empty jugs. It's .30 a gallon.

 

[broomer5]

Yeah - I've studied the water quality report from our municipal water treatment department too.To tell ya the truth ~ it scared the crap out of me !!!
So the plant makes good water.
After adding disinfectants, chlorine, fluorine, anti rust inhibitants, then it's pumped to substations.
Some is pumped up into water towers for pressure.
The water is pumped through miles of concrete or steel pipes.
Then it's pressure is regulated, and enters our neighborhoods.
Then it enters our homes system of copper piping.
Finally - we turn a faucet and out come this "perfect" water for a reef tank.
Here's somthing to think about. The state and federal governments set the allowable levels for most every contaminant found in many freshwater sources. These levels are established for PEOPLE - not a reef tank.
The EPA and FDA both regulate these plants - and have set guidelines for both water treatment plants - and those companies that "bottle" drinking water.
Our Municipal Water Treatment Plant reports the following.
MCLG = Maximum Contaminant Level Goal - What they are shooting for.
MCL = Maximum Contaminant Level - highest level allowed for drinking water set by both state and fed. govt.
LF = Level Found
NITRATES: Mostly from farming/fertilizer run off.
MCLG Goal = 10 ppm
MCL = 10 ppm
Level Found LF = 3.52 ppm
No violation last year.
Atrazine: Mostly from farming/herbicides ( weed killer )
MCLG Goal = 3 ppb
MCL = 3 ppb
Level Found LF = 1.2 ppb
No violations last year.
Copper:
MCLG Goal = 1.3 ppm
MCL = 1.3 ppm
Level Found LF = .019 ppm
Lead:
MCLG Goal = 15 ppb
MCL = 15 ppb
Level Found LF = 6.00 ppb
No violations last year
TTHM2: Total Trihalomethanes ~ a byproduct of chlorination process.
MCLG Goal = 0 ppb
MCL = 100 ppb
Level Found LF = 95.40 ppb
Note: If your water treatment plant does not use chlorine as the disinfectant - and chooses to add ammonia and chlorine to form chloramines -then you still have the possiblility of ending up with
monochloramine (NH2Cl)
dichloramine (NHCl2)
nitrogen trichloride (NCl3)
So they are ALLOWED to send up freshwater with these contaminants in there. As long as it does not "EXCEED" a certain amount.
I tested and detected nitrates in my tapwater, and occasionally phosphate. It was unpredictable - some days it tested positive and other days it did not.
I don't test for traces of weed killer, fertilizer and who knows what else is shooting down the pipeline to my house.
We filter our drinking water too.
Where are the established Maximum Contaminant Levels of these chemicals for our reef tanks ? They aren't even considered at the treatment plant. Those guidelines are for people.
I've seen what goes on at water treament plants firsthand.
It's sometimes known as C.Y.A. documentation.
I bought and use an RO/DI unit that supposedly puts out 99.9% pure water AT MY HOUSE. Not at the treatment plant.
Question Authority - or go with blind faith.
It's all about CONTROL.

 

[hairtrigger]

Thats some scary stuff broomer. We're lucky we don't breathe in water like corals and fish or we'd be f'd.
This is a toughie. Now that I see how quick filters wear out at 20 dollars a pop I am tempted to stick out tapwater. I would have to buy new filters after 2 water changes. That's not cool.
Have any of you ever seen something called RO in a bottle? It might be from kent, but it claims to RO tap water with a few drops. I don't know if I believe it. Anyone?

 

[jonthefb]

i, like salty use ro from th grocery. its the least i can do for my 20 gallon, other than buyign an ro system, which just wouldnt make sense! and the water here in greeley is just horrible. i would be afraid for my fishes life putting it in the tank!
good luck
jon

 

[hairtrigger]

Man, that grocery store stuff is a good idea... but transporting 50 gallons a time would really be annoying. I am screwed either way.

 

[maroonclownfan]

I use tap...have only tested for Nitrates = 0ppm
I treat top off water with dechlorinator.
I am going to start using RyeBread's method of aggitating the SW for a couple days before waterchanges.
I may get an RO/DI unit someday, but for now I am going to stick it out with tap.
I also have a water distiller with a 30-35 gal reservoir that I am going to try and resurrect. Its a big stainless steel contraption that distills tap water, I think it will be optimal for a water source, any comments????
Has anyone ever used a home water distiller??
MCF

 

[hairtrigger]

I have used the distiller on my first reef and had the same parameters so I gave up on it because the filters had to be replaced too often. But, I agree, I am leaning towards rye's agitation method too.

 

[ddt]

I use RO/DI, the unit was approx $160 and will last well over a year at my current usage. I just alway have two 5 gal buckets filled and when I'm ready to mix salt and go.

 

[buzz]

I take the RO route, from the local water store. Our tap water scares me...I won't even drink it.

 

[broomer5]

Standing in front of a saltwater mixing vat - or preparing to top off my reef tank ~ I can basically say two things to myself.
One being ~ I sure HOPE this freshwater is going to be okay.
The other being ~ I KNOW this freshwater is okay.
Having an RO or RO/DI unit - allows one to "know" more about what is going into the tank ....... or more specifically,,,, what's NOT going into the tank.
Buying RO water from store or LFS - you're a little better off - but there's still some of that HOPE going on.
Using tapwater - it's all hope in my opinion, although hope plus past good experiences may still lead to success.
I wonder a lot - wonder a lot about a lot of things in this hobby - as I'm sure we all do. I don't like to wonder what's in my freshwater though.

 

[jedininja]

Wow, I didnt realize how many people used tap. When I did, I would get outbreaks all the time. Now I purchase my RO water from one of these little water shops where people go and fill their water jugs. It costs $1 for 5 gallons. Its worked like a charm for me.

 

[kennynj]

I USE AN RO UNIT. I FIGURE IF I WON'T DRINK THE WATER OUT
OF THE TAP IT'S NOT GOING IN MY TANK. AN RO UNIT, IF NOTHING
ELSE, GIVES YOU MORE CONTROLL OVER WHAT YOUR PUTTING
IN YOUR TANK.

 

[phoenixrising]

I do not cook with or serve tap water in my home. I figure if I am unwilling to consume this myself, it is not something I want my fish swimming in. I use a name brand distilled (Distillata) which I buy at a discount store at 2 gallons for .99c. Load up the truck with 20 cases at a time (6 gallons a case) and for $60 or so my worries are over. I supplement with Kents essential elements to try to make up for the lack of "essential stuff" in the distilled water. Not sure if this is really necessary or not though.

 

[tim]

I have an RO/DI unit on which I bypassed the RO part to get just DI water for the tank (because of the 6x water waste with RO). I have a 180 on which I replace 3 gals a day due to evap. Plenty of algae (red, green, brown, black), so I plan to: 1) replace the DI filter and start using full RO/DI water, 2) Put the glass back on the top to limit evaporation, 3) start feeding half as much, 4) put sponge filters on the powerheads (and clean them 2x/wk), 5) blow the algae off the rocks and remove the algae carpet on the sand.
Obviously there are a multitude of reasons for algae, but I bought a phosphate test kit to check my water pre and post RO/DI to see what's up.
Jury's still out for me...