why do baby clowns last only seven days?

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lizardlady58

Guest
Tested water today and ammonia is high. I can't figure out how to delete this post , I don't want to waste anyone's time.
 
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lizardlady58

Guest
Actually got ammonia under control with a drip system but still losing babies.
 
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lizardlady58

Guest
Hi. Yes I would. Have solved the amm. problem, have studied the books, researched larval rearing have done everything as advised but still can't get larvae past seven days. I may have to give up
 
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shrimpy brains

Guest
Well, I can try to explain what works for me!
You can pull the eggs and hatch 'em or however you are doing that. Personally, I wait till they hatch and suction them out with an air tube line.
I put them in a 1g goldfish bowl. Round bowl with flat front and back. You can find these a walmart.
I use the water from display tank so there are no parameter changes. Get an air pump, some airline, a flow control valve and some rigid air tubing. Attach airline to pump, cut it and put a flow control in. Spend a couple of extra bucks and get the better quality one. I get a 3 way. I attach one to another line and a rigid tube. Place the tubing in the goldfish bowl about 3 -4 inches from the bottom on one of the curved sides. Turn the control down until you get one bubble every couple of seconds. Add rotifers and enough green water so you can just about see the fry. The slow bubbles will create a circular current. You want it just strong enough to circulate the rotifers. The fry should be able to swim in the current. The rotifers are constantly coming around and providing an easy catch for the fry.
Get a low watt light (I use a table lamp) Leave it on all the time. If the fry stay too close to top of tank, you need more light. If they stand on their heads at the bottom, you need less light. They should (although some will swim around) stay in the middle, swimming into the (very light) current!
Can you picture what I am describing?
For the first three days, I add rotifers at least 3 times a day and green water(I just use DT's) anytime the water starts to look clear. On day three, I start adding newly hatched brine shrimp(I use the 3 way control valve to run 2 hatcheries) I add the bbs twice daily along with rotifers. (phyto as needed)
After the first week, I quit the live rotifers and start adding frozen rotifers and cyclopeeze.(and bbs)
Then I start to mix it up. I may add some finely crushed flake or dried cyclopeeze. At this point you can try anything small enough for them to eat. Just watch and see what they are interested in.
Oh, you can easily do small daily water changes in the goldfish bowl. I just take an airline with a piece of rigid airline tubing. Put the rigid end in the bottom corner of the bowl (down current) because of the circulation, waste will collect in that lip and you can suck it right out. Add water from growout tank. After about two weeks, you should be able to move them to a 10g growout tank. With the daily water changes, your parameters should match perfectly and you can move them right in.
Hope some of this makes sense.
 
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lizardlady58

Guest
Thank you for the advice, I don't think I will give up just yet. I think the key is keeping the water conditions as perfect as possible. I use N enrich for rotifers and have been adding a little to the fry tank every feeding. I have noticed debri on the bottom of the tank so I wonder if that is causing problems. Next time I will feed rotifers more often, and put rotifer food in the tank at night to keep the rotifers fed. You said that you keep the light on all the time? Dim lighting might explain why a lot of the fry will spend their time hanging head up near the surface. Hoping for success,
 
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shrimpy brains

Guest
Yes, I keep the light on constantly till they reach metamorphisis(sp?). I do small daily water changes, being sure to remove all debris on bottom. You want lots of rotifers, all the time and adding the rotifer food will keep them alive longer.
Clown babies eat constantly.
 
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