Why Do I Fail?
- Thread starter maxsmart
- Start date
oceansidefish
Active Member
I know how you feel. My fish tank is a death trap for xenia.... Go figure.
maxsmart
Member
No, the deaths seem to be unrelated to anything. I've tried running the tank with and without water changes, with and without additives, with long/short light periods, it seems to make no difference. I did have a big die-off when I lost 2 ballasts in a month, causing almost a month of partial light, but I expected that.
The fish seem undamaged when I do see bodies. Because the back half of the tank is a wall of liverock, I don't always get to see a body. For example, I haven't seen my jawfish in days, I suspect he's dead but haven't seen a body, so I don't know if his giant burrow he built the day before is so cozy he doesn't want to come out, or if he's dead in there or somewhere else.
I have tons of liverock, and it is ripe with life - pods, dusters, tube worms, corals, sponges, algaes, tiny brittle stars, peanut worms. I have coraline that grows at an annoying pace, though it slowed down when I switched from PC to T5 lighting. (The frogspawn took a turn when I did that, too - T5 is overrated)
I do a pretty generous light period during the day, I've discovered in the past year that this causes better macroalgaes to grow - ie, halimedas and sea grapes instead of hair algae - that are more attractive and easier to groom.
Do emerald crabs molt their shells? If not, add another emerald crab to the list of deaths. One of the urchins is carrying the top half of a emerald shell on its back.
The fish seem undamaged when I do see bodies. Because the back half of the tank is a wall of liverock, I don't always get to see a body. For example, I haven't seen my jawfish in days, I suspect he's dead but haven't seen a body, so I don't know if his giant burrow he built the day before is so cozy he doesn't want to come out, or if he's dead in there or somewhere else.
I have tons of liverock, and it is ripe with life - pods, dusters, tube worms, corals, sponges, algaes, tiny brittle stars, peanut worms. I have coraline that grows at an annoying pace, though it slowed down when I switched from PC to T5 lighting. (The frogspawn took a turn when I did that, too - T5 is overrated)
I do a pretty generous light period during the day, I've discovered in the past year that this causes better macroalgaes to grow - ie, halimedas and sea grapes instead of hair algae - that are more attractive and easier to groom.
Do emerald crabs molt their shells? If not, add another emerald crab to the list of deaths. One of the urchins is carrying the top half of a emerald shell on its back.
dustyboy316
Member
yup Emeral crabs do molt their shells. He sounds safe... for now.
I'm sorry your having these problem, and I can't really help... but I'm sure there will be a (albeit expensive) lesson in the end...
I'm sorry your having these problem, and I can't really help... but I'm sure there will be a (albeit expensive) lesson in the end...
keylargolady
New Member
Hi.....I'm new to the website....and I'm trying to figure out how to post a question....I'm looking for the real name of the dorey fish, off of Nemo....???? And does this saltwaterfish.com carry them?
unleashed
Active Member
Originally Posted by keylargolady
http:///forum/post/2861419
Hi.....I'm new to the website....and I'm trying to figure out how to post a question....I'm looking for the real name of the dorey fish, off of Nemo....???? And does this saltwaterfish.com carry them?
well hobbiest refer to them as hippo tangs aka pacific blue(Paracanthurus)I do believe is the scientific name and yes SFW.com does carry them
http:///forum/post/2861419
Hi.....I'm new to the website....and I'm trying to figure out how to post a question....I'm looking for the real name of the dorey fish, off of Nemo....???? And does this saltwaterfish.com carry them?
well hobbiest refer to them as hippo tangs aka pacific blue(Paracanthurus)I do believe is the scientific name and yes SFW.com does carry them
normanknight
Member
For what it's worth, I had exactly the same problem. Every fish I put in my tank died. Some lasted around 4 months, some lasted less than a week. They all acted the same. Swimming problems, quit eating, then just dieing. The only thing I had not tried was lowering my salinity. I know the ocean salinity is around 1.025 but I kept thinking that maybe for artificial salt, that is too high. I dropped my reading to 1.021, which is where I kept it years ago, and all the problems went away. This may not work for everyone, but it won't hurt to give it a try. This is for fish only though. I will now brace myself for suggesting this solution.
lkgrenegade22
Member
Originally Posted by ophiura
http:///forum/post/2862046
If it worked to lower the salinity, my first thought is you had an issue with a parasite. Believe me, loads of people keep the specific gravity at 1.025 or higher without any issues
But how would lowering it to only 1.021 get rid of a parasite?
http:///forum/post/2862046
If it worked to lower the salinity, my first thought is you had an issue with a parasite. Believe me, loads of people keep the specific gravity at 1.025 or higher without any issues
But how would lowering it to only 1.021 get rid of a parasite?
ophiura
Active Member
The lower specific gravity is highly stressful and flat out fatal for many types of invertebrates and parasites...try that salinity, for example, on a reef tank or even with snails and you will have trouble. One of the primary reasons specific gravity is kept artificially low in FO systems is to combat parasites.
lkgrenegade22
Member
Originally Posted by ophiura
http:///forum/post/2862119
The lower specific gravity is highly stressful and flat out fatal for many types of invertebrates and parasites...try that salinity, for example, on a reef tank or even with snails and you will have trouble. One of the primary reasons specific gravity is kept artificially low in FO systems is to combat parasites.
I knew that but I did not think a specific gravity of 1.021 would be low enough to do so, especially since you go down to 1.009 for hypo of ich. I have gotten some fish from some LFS that came on 1.017 water...
http:///forum/post/2862119
The lower specific gravity is highly stressful and flat out fatal for many types of invertebrates and parasites...try that salinity, for example, on a reef tank or even with snails and you will have trouble. One of the primary reasons specific gravity is kept artificially low in FO systems is to combat parasites.
I knew that but I did not think a specific gravity of 1.021 would be low enough to do so, especially since you go down to 1.009 for hypo of ich. I have gotten some fish from some LFS that came on 1.017 water...
maxsmart
Member
I had thought about going down on the salinity, but I worry that the corals and inverts might not like that. Anyone else have any feedback on this? It seems like 1.025-1.026 is the range most experts on here use.
Anyone have any recomendations for alk/pH control products? I'm using a solid version of the liquid calcium (Kent I believe) which I dissolve into the water during water changes. This is also when I throw in a half-capful of liquid iodine.
From what the hatchery I used to shop at told me (and their tanks were IMPRESSIVE) was that if you do a 5% per week water change using a quality salt like reef crystals or instant ocean, that provides all the minerals your fish, inverts, and corals need. Obviously, they have quite a few of all of these, and they all do well.
Anyone have any recomendations for alk/pH control products? I'm using a solid version of the liquid calcium (Kent I believe) which I dissolve into the water during water changes. This is also when I throw in a half-capful of liquid iodine.
From what the hatchery I used to shop at told me (and their tanks were IMPRESSIVE) was that if you do a 5% per week water change using a quality salt like reef crystals or instant ocean, that provides all the minerals your fish, inverts, and corals need. Obviously, they have quite a few of all of these, and they all do well.
maxsmart
Member
OK, here are the test readings:
Nitrates: 0-20 group
Nitrites: 0-0.5 group
Alk: 120
pH: 7.8
The alk and pH are considered OK but not ideal according to my test kits' charts - how can I get those up? Those values have been very consistent as long as I've had my tank, whether I was using additives or not.
Nitrates: 0-20 group
Nitrites: 0-0.5 group
Alk: 120
pH: 7.8
The alk and pH are considered OK but not ideal according to my test kits' charts - how can I get those up? Those values have been very consistent as long as I've had my tank, whether I was using additives or not.
maxsmart
Member
Originally Posted by MaxSmart
http:///forum/post/2864160
OK, here are the test readings:
Nitrates: 0-20 group
Nitrites: 0-0.5 group
Alk: 120
pH: 7.8
The alk and pH are considered OK but not ideal according to my test kits' charts - how can I get those up? Those values have been very consistent as long as I've had my tank, whether I was using additives or not.
OK, my LFS recommended a product that buffers the pH. I dosed slowly over 2 days and got the pH up - the test kit is hard to read for values above 8.0, but according to the product it should be buffered right at 8.3. Nothing has drastically changed since then, but the frogspawn seems fuller, especially the new frag I made.
I also saw 2 emerald crabs at once, so at least 2 of 3 survived the first week. The decorator crab and 2 pincushion urchins seem to be doing very well. Apart from the arrow crab, which was basically DOA, and the 2 flame scallops, which everyone seems to have die on them pretty quickly, the order I made from SWF seems pretty healthy. I also got zoos which seem to be healthy as long as the crabs don't climb on them, and a pearly jawfish which I finally saw eating last night. Knock on wood, hopefully my luck will continue and my aquarium is no longer a death camp.
http:///forum/post/2864160
OK, here are the test readings:
Nitrates: 0-20 group
Nitrites: 0-0.5 group
Alk: 120
pH: 7.8
The alk and pH are considered OK but not ideal according to my test kits' charts - how can I get those up? Those values have been very consistent as long as I've had my tank, whether I was using additives or not.
OK, my LFS recommended a product that buffers the pH. I dosed slowly over 2 days and got the pH up - the test kit is hard to read for values above 8.0, but according to the product it should be buffered right at 8.3. Nothing has drastically changed since then, but the frogspawn seems fuller, especially the new frag I made.
I also saw 2 emerald crabs at once, so at least 2 of 3 survived the first week. The decorator crab and 2 pincushion urchins seem to be doing very well. Apart from the arrow crab, which was basically DOA, and the 2 flame scallops, which everyone seems to have die on them pretty quickly, the order I made from SWF seems pretty healthy. I also got zoos which seem to be healthy as long as the crabs don't climb on them, and a pearly jawfish which I finally saw eating last night. Knock on wood, hopefully my luck will continue and my aquarium is no longer a death camp.
ophiura
Active Member
Originally Posted by MaxSmart
http:///forum/post/2862937
I had thought about going down on the salinity, but I worry that the corals and inverts might not like that. Anyone else have any feedback on this? It seems like 1.025-1.026 is the range most experts on here use.
Anyone have any recomendations for alk/pH control products? I'm using a solid version of the liquid calcium (Kent I believe) which I dissolve into the water during water changes. This is also when I throw in a half-capful of liquid iodine.
From what the hatchery I used to shop at told me (and their tanks were IMPRESSIVE) was that if you do a 5% per week water change using a quality salt like reef crystals or instant ocean, that provides all the minerals your fish, inverts, and corals need. Obviously, they have quite a few of all of these, and they all do well.
Do not lower the salinity in a tank with inverts. IMO anything below 1.024 is highly stressful to inverts.
Basically for the alk/calcium I agree with the last statement. Do regular water changes with a good salt mix and many things take care of themselves
THAT is a good store - most will try to sell many "cures in a bottle."
http:///forum/post/2862937
I had thought about going down on the salinity, but I worry that the corals and inverts might not like that. Anyone else have any feedback on this? It seems like 1.025-1.026 is the range most experts on here use.
Anyone have any recomendations for alk/pH control products? I'm using a solid version of the liquid calcium (Kent I believe) which I dissolve into the water during water changes. This is also when I throw in a half-capful of liquid iodine.
From what the hatchery I used to shop at told me (and their tanks were IMPRESSIVE) was that if you do a 5% per week water change using a quality salt like reef crystals or instant ocean, that provides all the minerals your fish, inverts, and corals need. Obviously, they have quite a few of all of these, and they all do well.
Do not lower the salinity in a tank with inverts. IMO anything below 1.024 is highly stressful to inverts.
Basically for the alk/calcium I agree with the last statement. Do regular water changes with a good salt mix and many things take care of themselves
maxsmart
Member
Well, an update is due I suppose. The Pearly Jawfish died. I had noticed that Hermes the yellow-tail damsel was behind the rocks on the left side of the aquarium, where he never ventures. My guess is that he was chasing the jawfish all the way back into his hole.
I'm starting to think he's the cause of the fish deaths. I bought another pair of young percula clowns, planning to move the damsel to the hospital for a month or so while they get cozy, but I was unable to catch him. (too much liverock) I ended up leaving the net suspended in the middle of the tank for a few days, since the damsel wouldn't go near it. Knock on wood, the clowns are eating and are starting to ignore the damsel's theatrics - hopefully they're situated.
Hermes the damsel is one of my favorite fish, I've had him since starting the tank a few years ago, but if it's either him or being able to have other fish in the tank, I'm going to have to get rid of him. I just hate to make a rash decision if it's not him causing the problems.
The inverts are a different story:
My frogspawn, which was doing nicely before my old CF light fixture blew a balast while I was out of town, only has 3 sickly heads remaining - though it does have a dozen or two sproutling heads growing from the skeleton.
The zoos are still alive, but are suddenly not looking as well (the first week they went from 5 to 8 in number, now they barely are open), but that could be because of crabs walking on them.
I rarely see an emerald crab, so I'm guessing there's only 1 of the 3 left alive.
3 or 4 of the 6 baby peppermints I ordered are growing up nicely.
The decorator crab is alive.
The 2 urchins are also doing fine.
I'm not sure if it's pH, salinity, flatworms, or lighting causing my invert woes.
The 4x55w T5 fixture, though it looks brighter, doesn't seem to be as good as my old 4x65w CF fixture as far as the frogspawn goes. I'm still wondering if I should add/subtract from the 2 actnics in the unit. Nobody seems to really know what frequencies corals need/use.
I do have several of what I believe are hitchhiker corals on my liverock - I'll provide pics for ID when I get a chance:
1. Very hard, VERY purple growths about 1/4 to 1/2 inch tall, branching like plants/gorgonians. The seem to be spreading.
2. A hard, orangish patch that kind of resembles coraline but it's a bit thicker than coraline usually grows and it has a texture like very coarse sandpaper.
3. A small patch of stony, pearly white "eyes" that seems to slowly be growing
These things make me think my lighting is just fine.
I'm starting to think he's the cause of the fish deaths. I bought another pair of young percula clowns, planning to move the damsel to the hospital for a month or so while they get cozy, but I was unable to catch him. (too much liverock) I ended up leaving the net suspended in the middle of the tank for a few days, since the damsel wouldn't go near it. Knock on wood, the clowns are eating and are starting to ignore the damsel's theatrics - hopefully they're situated.
Hermes the damsel is one of my favorite fish, I've had him since starting the tank a few years ago, but if it's either him or being able to have other fish in the tank, I'm going to have to get rid of him. I just hate to make a rash decision if it's not him causing the problems.
The inverts are a different story:
My frogspawn, which was doing nicely before my old CF light fixture blew a balast while I was out of town, only has 3 sickly heads remaining - though it does have a dozen or two sproutling heads growing from the skeleton.
The zoos are still alive, but are suddenly not looking as well (the first week they went from 5 to 8 in number, now they barely are open), but that could be because of crabs walking on them.
I rarely see an emerald crab, so I'm guessing there's only 1 of the 3 left alive.
3 or 4 of the 6 baby peppermints I ordered are growing up nicely.
The decorator crab is alive.
The 2 urchins are also doing fine.
I'm not sure if it's pH, salinity, flatworms, or lighting causing my invert woes.
The 4x55w T5 fixture, though it looks brighter, doesn't seem to be as good as my old 4x65w CF fixture as far as the frogspawn goes. I'm still wondering if I should add/subtract from the 2 actnics in the unit. Nobody seems to really know what frequencies corals need/use.
I do have several of what I believe are hitchhiker corals on my liverock - I'll provide pics for ID when I get a chance:
1. Very hard, VERY purple growths about 1/4 to 1/2 inch tall, branching like plants/gorgonians. The seem to be spreading.
2. A hard, orangish patch that kind of resembles coraline but it's a bit thicker than coraline usually grows and it has a texture like very coarse sandpaper.
3. A small patch of stony, pearly white "eyes" that seems to slowly be growing
These things make me think my lighting is just fine.
fishlawyer
Member
Originally Posted by knockout
http:///forum/post/2859846
what is your source for livestock, it looks like most animals are dying really fast after introduction, is the source reliable, do they look "healthy" when you get them, are they eating properly before you buy, I am not a fan of the drip acclimation method too many variables to sync
I second this comment. Change your source for livestock. Something might be on their end.
http:///forum/post/2859846
what is your source for livestock, it looks like most animals are dying really fast after introduction, is the source reliable, do they look "healthy" when you get them, are they eating properly before you buy, I am not a fan of the drip acclimation method too many variables to sync
I second this comment. Change your source for livestock. Something might be on their end.