Why do we quarantine for 6 weeks?

S

Shilpan

Member
Hey guys
Currently quarantining a lawnmower blenny and a chromis for 6 weeks without medication. I observe both sides of each fish once a day for disease. I have 2 questions,

1) where does the number 6 weeks come from? Is it to do with some life cycle? Or experience?

2) say my blenny and chromis carried ich. Is there a high chance that after 6 weeks of daily observations they just won’t show white spots and thus I’ll never pick it up? I’m checking for signs of scratching or flashing but none of those. In which case would best practice be pre-medicating? Or would you only premedicate for Tang’s etc?
I purchased the fish from a tank that had a powder brown tang in it, and so since the tang had no ich in two occasions over 2 weeks, I deemed that tank safe to purchase from.

(I’m ich paranoid now after my last failed quarantine of a tang)
 
S

Shilpan

Member
Thanks guys :)

And what do you think about pre-medicating vs only observing?
Imforbis would you feel comfortable only observing for 6 weeks and then adding a fish to your DT?
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
The only pre-treatment I'd recommend is not a medication but preventative for ich--the most common parasitic malady. I'll link the procedure below.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/c/index.php/articles/content/hyposalinity.100

It's not advisable to use a pre-med procedure because medications can be rendered less effective as pathogens get accustomed to them. But the biggest problem for hobbyist is that medications are not exactly trouble-free for their fish either. Many meds, particularly for parasites, are toxic. They are toxic to fish as they to the parasite. So, why expose your fish to such unless you can confirm that they require it to treat a specific disease they are suffering from?
 
S

Shilpan

Member
Thanks Beth! Ok so then observation is a pretty reliable method, and if I don’t see anything over 4-6 weeks then I can rest assured it’s very likely I’m safe to add to the DT.

With hypo is that dangerous for fish in any way? If the salinity is dropped over 48hrs the fish won’t mind it one bit? And they’ll safe?
What happens if I fail to buffer the pH?
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Hypo is so safe, and beneficial for short-term use; there really is no reason not to use it. It is a bit of a hassle to get water down and then bring it back up. Just do not stress the fish out adjusting salinity too fast, and very important, keep an eye on pH. pH will drop as water becomes less saline, so you can adjust this with a buffer. SW fish need be kept in water that is no less than 8.0 pH. Test while making the changes, and then daily once the tank is in hyposalinity.

Just go slowly with dropping, and more slowly with raising water back up to higher salinity. If you have a 20 gal QT, for instance, take out 5 gals, then every hour add back a 1/2 gal. If that's well tolerated, then go to a gal. Once your tank is full again, remove more water and proceed with the procedure until you are down to 1.009. You should use a refractometer, however. If you don't have one for this go round, just get one for the future. It's the best way to measure salinity.

Using a magnifying glass, 30 days should be good enough, especially if you are going to use hypo. Just look the fish over carefully and twice daily, if not more often. Anything that doesn't look right needs to be addressed. Fish tend to get hungry with hypo. Its ok to feed the fish, but in quantities that does not result in uneaten food landing on the bottom.

I assume your QT is well cycled?
 
S

Shilpan

Member
Thank you

Yes very well cycled I made sure of it after my last fiasco ammonia up till 4ppm then I just left the shrimp in till it turned to mush. Had the fish in there for 1 week now and no ammonia readings with nyos :)
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Keep good water quality, and good quality food. Healthy fish will be in display quick enough.
 
S

Shilpan

Member
Thank you :)

Yeah I’ve got the LM blenny eating nori, omega one algae rounds and pellets. Doesn’t seem to eat mysis but fair enough he’s a herbivore after all.

The chromis I find eats anything. I find it difficult to distinguish ich and other diseases on a blenny due to its coloring, but I’m mostly checking the chromis as a proxy for the blenny. 8 days and all good so far. Did a 25% water change just cause I thought might as well, and also I’ve washed and left outside to dry all my water change equipment since the pumps I will use to water change in my DT tank too next week.

Appreciate all the support guys :) lol 1.5 years and I’m still posting on the beginners board
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Using a magnifying glass to check out your fish during QT will make it much easier to discern normal markings from a disease process, such as ich.
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Shilpan said:
Thanks guys :)

And what do you think about pre-medicating vs only observing?
Imforbis would you feel comfortable only observing for 6 weeks and then adding a fish to your DT?
Click to expand...
I would not but I only medicate with praziPro. I prevent ich with tank transfers. I have never encountered velvet where the fish lasted more than a couple days. They always came out of systems with sub clinical levels of copper that masked the disease. When it showed it was full blown and too late for successful treatment. I also only do one fish at a time.
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
LMB is not a very sustainable fish in most hobbyist aquaria. How are you feeding him?
 
S

Shilpan

Member
I’m feeding it nori, veggie rounds and pellets. I brought one that ate pellets in the store.
It eats everything so far :)
 
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