Why, is time important?????

[george99]

So why, does one need to let a tank run for weeks before you add more fish and such? I understand that it's important to allow the Bacteria to grow to brake down fish waste, etc. And to allow live rock to grow, what purpose does the live rock serve? And I can dummy out what “Bio-loading” is, but what exactly am I trying to achieve here? I too know I’m giving the Aquarium time to find some type of equilibrium. But what?
Perhaps there is no short answer for these questions. However any insight you are willing to share, I would be grateful.
I have ordered a few books to feed my need for knowledge and have my sights set on a nice Reef tank some day.
Regards, George

 

[fbm]

Your new tank has no to little bacteria in it. You have to let the bacteria that consumes ammonia grow to consume the ammonia. Then that bacteria produces nitrites as waste, now you have to let the bacteria that consumes nitrites grow to consume the ammonia. Then those bacterias that consume trites produce trates. Now you have to let your trates come to an equilibrium as well. I am not totally sure how trates get used up because I have no deep sand bed and no trate removal at all. And I have never had any yet on a low range test kit.
You also need to let the PH settle as well on a new tank. And this is done by circulating the water and allowing it to reach an equilibrium.
And you also give time to adjust the heater/heaters to get them set up right. My heater broke not too long ago and now I am trying to find the sweet spot of a new heater. Also I found out this morning that my new heater could not keep up so I had to run 2 heaters now. This is somehting you want to do on a tank empty of livestock, not one fully stocked as I am doing so now. It just takes time to figure out.

 

[poniegirl]

It isn't exactly a time issue, as much as a water quality issue.
If you haven't already, buy yourself a test kit so that you will know when your tank has completed it's nitrogen cycle. The cycle follows a predictable series of events.
Once you have the kit, do the tests, write down the results and repost with exact readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH. Specific gravity (SG or salinity, crudely speaking) is also very important, but will require either a refractometer or, more simply and less expensive, a hydrometer. The refractometer is more accurate and dependable.
Someone will be able to tell you approximately where your tank is at in terms of cycling by the readings you get.
You can take your water to the LFS and they will test it, but IMHO, you'll be better off testing it yourself. It will be one of the more important parts of your tank maintenance.

 

[natclanwy]

The cycle that fbm described is what you are waiting on. You have to give your tank time to build up colony of bactieria to process the waste from the livestock you put in your tank. There are three different types of bacteria that need to be established. There is one type that converts ammonia (fish waste) into Nitrite then there is another type Aerobic bacteria (need O2 to live) that convert the Nitrite into Nitrate. Then the last type is Anarobic (sp) (need an oxygen depleted enviroment) that convert Nitrate into Nitrogen gas which is then exported from the tank at the surface of the water.
The live rock aids this cycle by adding more surface area in your tank for the bacteria to live and also the porious nature of live rock allows for the anarobic bacteria to form deep inside the rock.
Bio-loading is talking about all of the livestock you are adding to your tank. Everytime you add a fish to your tank you increase the amount of waste all of the bacteria in your tank have to process. If you add too many at one time the bacteria will not be able to keep up with the addition load and your tank will have a spike in ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates until the bacteria increase by enough to process the extra load. It is harder to establish a good colony of anarobic bacteria than the other two types which why most people have a more difficult time keeping their Nitrates low vs. Nitrite or Ammonia.
Hope this helps and wasn't too long winded I suffer from diarria of the keyboard.

 

[george99]

No!
I don’t think anyone here is being long winded at all! In fact, well said! Thank all of you for shedding some light on the subject. If any of you could suggest some good reading that could help me along this path, please do?
I have ordered test strips to test my water quality, however at this point, I’m not sure what to do if I encountered a problem, short of asking here or going to my local Fish store. I’m not sure if the test strips I have ordered will suit me needs. If anyone has any more to add, Please do so! I’m interested in hearing all sides and any suggesting you might have. Again, Thank You!
Regards, George

 

[patandlace]

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist is a very good book with a lot of info.

 

[hatessushi]

sure "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is a very good overall book. Most on the forum site agree its a really good book and it will explain the nitrogen cycle simply although natclanwy did a very good job.

 

[mandarin w]

If you encounter a problem, or just have a question this is the place to go. There are several books, that any and every new hobbist should read. Just my spelling a terrible, so I will let someone else tell you what books to get. As far as "test strips" I would see about getting your money back on those. Look for a test kit. American Pharmisuticals (told you i can spell) has a good starting test kit. it is about $25 bucks, These will work well while starting you tank up and all, If you decide to get corals down the road, you will do better with picking up "Salifert"
test, they are more acurate, but they cost a bit more. But for testing thru a cycleing tank the other tests are just fine. Test strips or junk, not even close to acurate reading most time.

 

[hatessushi]

I use the test strips only as a precursor. It lets me know if I am in the ballpark on nitrates, nitrites, alk, and Ph. If it looks suspicious then I do a full battery of tests. The strips are great for on the fly testing and for quick peace of mind. Many on this forum use them but not as test to rely on.
I found the nitrate portion to be the most helpfull.