Yah I flooded my living room because I rule.
- Thread starter crimthann
- Start date
f14peter
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
Just ran out to the garage and tried it and yes the vinyl can be drilled and the hole did stay open.....the hose though was roughly 3/4" ID, but would assume smaller line would work as well.....if you have a scrap piece try it first on that.....
Although probably no longer germane to the discussion, if one would want to punch/drill a hole in vinyl tubing, it could be augmented by a barbed fitting made for sprinkler/drip irrigation systems. It's the little fitting made for tapping into larger irrigation line and running the smaller, "Spaghetti" line from there.
Just an FYI . . .
BTW, recently completed a freshwater system/leak test on our tank and when satisfied everything was working properly, shut off the return pump and monitored what happened to check for a "power outage" situation. I don't have an anti-siphon hole in the return piping, but the outlets are very near the surface. The water in the sump went up a couple of inches, but that was all.
Just ran out to the garage and tried it and yes the vinyl can be drilled and the hole did stay open.....the hose though was roughly 3/4" ID, but would assume smaller line would work as well.....if you have a scrap piece try it first on that.....
Although probably no longer germane to the discussion, if one would want to punch/drill a hole in vinyl tubing, it could be augmented by a barbed fitting made for sprinkler/drip irrigation systems. It's the little fitting made for tapping into larger irrigation line and running the smaller, "Spaghetti" line from there.
Just an FYI . . .
BTW, recently completed a freshwater system/leak test on our tank and when satisfied everything was working properly, shut off the return pump and monitored what happened to check for a "power outage" situation. I don't have an anti-siphon hole in the return piping, but the outlets are very near the surface. The water in the sump went up a couple of inches, but that was all.
7
75bownut
Guest
One way check valves, got a flap inside that prevent this.
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by 75bownut
One way check valves, got a flap inside that prevent this.
Ok......Try relying on this for long term and you'll be mopping the floor....I do recommend them as a first line, but I also suggest using the syphon break hole......Your insane if you'll rely on just a check valve.....and most people use the cheap deals you can't visual check to see if they are properly closing, so you never know if they are actually seeping or not....I prefer the clear TruUnion check valves when I use them....That way I can visually see if it is seeping anything in the valve itself, and if need be it can be disassembled and rebuilt......
One way check valves, got a flap inside that prevent this.
Ok......Try relying on this for long term and you'll be mopping the floor....I do recommend them as a first line, but I also suggest using the syphon break hole......Your insane if you'll rely on just a check valve.....and most people use the cheap deals you can't visual check to see if they are properly closing, so you never know if they are actually seeping or not....I prefer the clear TruUnion check valves when I use them....That way I can visually see if it is seeping anything in the valve itself, and if need be it can be disassembled and rebuilt......
brandons
Member
Here's my solution I used. I had a rigid airtube line and put it up inside the return line and then ziptied it to the outside. It hasn't failed yet and the ziptie and the hoses rigidity keep it from being kicked back out when the surge comes back up from the power going out. It hasn't failed yet. I've unplugged my pump numerous times and had the power go out once. Also I don't really have to worry about a snail or something covering it because it's slightly above the water as it is. No salt will build up in it because there is a small amount of water flowing through it from the pumps pressure, but not enough to squirt it any distance.
crimthann
New Member
Well the syphon holes worked & i fixed the minor leak before i filled it back up with tap water to test it again. once i had it running i noticed one other small leak no big deal, but I noticed one more problem when it started running. Looks like my pump in the sump is faster than the hang on overflow is. So my return side of the sump is bone dry and the pump is running too slow and kicking air into the system making the water go too slow to have the skimmer running properly. I tried putting another hose in the overflow to syphon water out of the tank faster but didn't help. Only thing i can think of would be to put a ball valve on the pump to block off the flow out of the sump a bit. Anyone have any ideas of they have had this problem?
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Brandon,
Clever, but IMO the holes simpler.
Clever, but IMO the holes simpler.
crimthann
New Member
I figured my pump was too strong. Not exactly sure what the overflow is rated at. Do you think it would hurt my pump if i put a ball valve on it to restrict the flow out of it? I'm very tempted to pay someone to fix it tomorrow because i have have $300 in live rock coming in more than likely tomorrow. But part of me thinks i made it this far and that's really the only problem that I'm having. It'd be easier and probably faster if i can just pop a ball valve in and call it a day but not at the risk of me burning out the pump because I'm restricting the flow (and probably heat the hell out of the water).
scotts
Active Member
I use a ball valve to restrict the flow of my pump. If it is possible I would recommend using a globe valve or a gate valve, you can get a little better fine tuning with those. Byt then like I said I have a ball valve. And any day now I will replace it with a better valave, right after I finish my honey do list.
brandons
Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
Brandon,
Clever, but IMO the holes simpler.
I agree, and have less chance of failure probably. I just couldn't do it because I wouldn't be able to spin the little 90* elbow because it wouldn't match up the hole that go drilled in the short peice of PVC that connects the elbow to the rest. If I went lower to the elbow itself my sump would overflow. So it was founded out of necessity.
Brandon,
Clever, but IMO the holes simpler.
I agree, and have less chance of failure probably. I just couldn't do it because I wouldn't be able to spin the little 90* elbow because it wouldn't match up the hole that go drilled in the short peice of PVC that connects the elbow to the rest. If I went lower to the elbow itself my sump would overflow. So it was founded out of necessity.
1journeyman
Active Member
Instead of using a ball valve and putting back pressure on your pump do this: Make a "T" with a ball valve returning back into your sump... basically make a loop. Open and close that to "dump" some of the return water immediately back to your sump.
Either that or get a smaller pump...
Either that or get a smaller pump...
nigerbang
Active Member
I tested mine over and over and over to make sure the back syphon wouldnt overflow..With the Durso it acts as a syphon break only draining about maybe 1 gallon, and with the return it stops about 4 inches from the top of the sump area..I was so worried about that from day1. I must have checked that 40 times before I was at ease with it...So luckly I havent had a flood YET..( :cheer: )