Yellow Tang goes down in flames

J

jdragunas

Guest
ok, everyone helped so much, but i saw one question our newbie here asked that no one addressed.
The CYCLE:
The whole point of the cycle is to establish a colony of bacteria in your tank. The point of this bacteria is to process the ammonia introduced into your tank. Ammonia (toxic) is introduced in several forms, common ones being fish waste (poo and pee), and food (if you feed too much food, it will sit on the bottom of the tank and break down into ammonia). The bacteria take your ammonia, and turn it into nitrites (also toxic). Another form of bacteria then grows and turns your nitrites into nitrates (much less toxic). This whole process is established by introducing ammonia to the system in the first place (in the form of a cocktail shrimp, as suggested above).
The whole point of this is to ensure that your system will be able to properly process the ammonia created by having fish in your tank. Ammonia is toxic in very small amounts - you should have no more than 0.25ppm in your tank. Same goes for nitrites. However, nitrates aren't as toxic, and fish can handle up to 40ppm or more (however it is strongly suggested that you keep yours at 20ppm or less.)
Hope this helps out!
Now, if you want to keep the damsels, you most likely can, as they are probably one of the hardiest species you can have (they can handle the high spikes of ammonia and nitrites produced in a cycle). HOwever, damsels are meanie heads, and become territorial and aggressive, so IMO, try to take them back to the LFS. IMO, the yellow tang died from stress from high ammonia and nitrites. Tangs are NOT hardy, and need at least a 75+ gallon tank (depending on the species). So in the future, don't put a tang (of any kind) in your tank.
I suggest you follow oceanists' advice in starting from the beginning of the cycle.
Hope i didn't confuse you! (let me know if i did)
 

sleasia

Active Member
You can also add some bio-spira marine. Its a bit expensive but is a great source of "good" cycling bacteria, and will jump start your cycling, or add a couple jugs of "nutri seawater".
 

promisetbg

Active Member
Sorry to mention this at a bad time,but I hope you researched the bicolor goatfish.They need to eat frequently,grow to over 10 inches,and will compromise the health of your sandbed.
Sorry for your loss.
More important now though...post all water parameters including PH,Amm,nitrite,nitrate,ALK,PO4, and SG.,calcium is'nt really important at this point,unless you have corals.
The large dark spot on the side of the tang sounds like aggression from another fish.You also mentioned the clownfish was being bullied....by whom??
 

solecraft

New Member
Originally Posted by jdragunas
ok, everyone helped so much, but i saw one question our newbie here asked that no one addressed.
The CYCLE:
The whole point of the cycle is to establish a colony of bacteria in your tank. The point of this bacteria is to process the ammonia introduced into your tank. Ammonia (toxic) is introduced in several forms, common ones being fish waste (poo and pee), and food (if you feed too much food, it will sit on the bottom of the tank and break down into ammonia). The bacteria take your ammonia, and turn it into nitrites (also toxic). Another form of bacteria then grows and turns your nitrites into nitrates (much less toxic). This whole process is established by introducing ammonia to the system in the first place (in the form of a cocktail shrimp, as suggested above).
The whole point of this is to ensure that your system will be able to properly process the ammonia created by having fish in your tank. Ammonia is toxic in very small amounts - you should have no more than 0.25ppm in your tank. Same goes for nitrites. However, nitrates aren't as toxic, and fish can handle up to 40ppm or more (however it is strongly suggested that you keep yours at 20ppm or less.)
Hope this helps out!
Now, if you want to keep the damsels, you most likely can, as they are probably one of the hardiest species you can have (they can handle the high spikes of ammonia and nitrites produced in a cycle). HOwever, damsels are meanie heads, and become territorial and aggressive, so IMO, try to take them back to the LFS. IMO, the yellow tang died from stress from high ammonia and nitrites. Tangs are NOT hardy, and need at least a 75+ gallon tank (depending on the species). So in the future, don't put a tang (of any kind) in your tank.
I suggest you follow oceanists' advice in starting from the beginning of the cycle.
Hope i didn't confuse you! (let me know if i did)
No no -- not confused. Just a little disappointed that the LFS wasnt as reliable as I thought they were. This is all good info -- I appreciate y'all taking the time to help me out.
Another question, though -- how do I know where in the cycle i am?
 

solecraft

New Member
Originally Posted by sleasia
You can also add some bio-spira marine. Its a bit expensive but is a great source of "good" cycling bacteria, and will jump start your cycling, or add a couple jugs of "nutri seawater".

I actually added the bio-spira stuff a few minutes before I put the first couple fish in.
 

solecraft

New Member
Originally Posted by promisetbg
Sorry to mention this at a bad time,but I hope you researched the bicolor goatfish.They need to eat frequently,grow to over 10 inches,and will compromise the health of your sandbed.
Sorry for your loss.
More important now though...post all water parameters including PH,Amm,nitrite,nitrate,ALK,PO4, and SG.,calcium is'nt really important at this point,unless you have corals.
The large dark spot on the side of the tang sounds like aggression from another fish.You also mentioned the clownfish was being bullied....by whom??

I'll have to get back to you on the levels.
The clownfish is being bullied by one of the damsels.
 

solecraft

New Member
Originally Posted by Jerthunter
I would say your next course of action would be to just wait, and if you don't plan on keeping the damsels try to get them out asap. What is done is done, in my opinion. If you cycled too fast you are probably past the worst of it now. I would keep testing your water on a regular basis but I would imagine even if you did not properly cycle that your tank is already cycled by now.
So if you get rid of the damsels you will have just one goatfish and a tomato clown which seems alright to me. After you are sure you tank has stablized and there are no more problems then you can start getting more fish, in my opinion. Just try to stay away from tangs and only add one fish at a time if you can.

How do I know when the tank has stabilized?
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
Your cycle is over when your ammonia and nitrites both read 0. At this point, your nitrates should be pretty high (mine were over 160ppm...). This is when you should do a large water change (25%) every few days to get the nitrates down.
Then after that, test all of your water parameters about every third day (every other-other day). When you see that the parameters aren't fluctuating anymore, that means it's stablized.
OK, well your first major step should be to purchase a book called "the conscientious marine aquarist" by Michael Fenner. This book is amazing and should be in every saltwater tanker's household! Tells you everything you need to know about keeping a saltwater aquarium.
Secondly, buy a book called "the pocketexpert guide to marine fishes". This book is a great reference guide to the 500+ most common aquarium fish. It tells you the min. tank size needed, how big they get, what they eat, who they get along with, who they don't, and much much more!
 

sleasia

Active Member
you can also add more bio-spira. I don't think you can overdose. Protein skimmers and uv should be turned off by the way while you cycle the tank otherwise they are killing the good bacteria before it can be established and pulling out too much of the waste (food detritus) that they need to feed on to proliferate. Adding live rock, macro algae is also good but be absolutely sure it has been cycled, otherwise you will trigger a recycling of yourr tank.
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
protein skimmer can be left on... it only removes larger particles in the water. Def. turn off the UV.
 
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