Yellow tang won't eat

T

tiberius

Guest
I have had my yellow tang for 7 years. He has only ate 2 bits of food in the last 2 weeks. I have just tried frozen Formula 2. When ever I put food in for the clowns and blenny, he hides. The other guys eat. I was concern maybe a month ago when the inside of his mouth had red in it. I assumed he munched down on one of the big bristle worms when it came up from the bed to eat the algae sheet I was putting out for him. I could never get him to eat it from the clip and someone mentioned about using rubber bands and place it on a rock. That has worked wonderfully till his mouth was all red inside. He was still eating flakes then but just seemed like he couldn't chew at big ones and had to go after little ones.
The only thing that changed since he stopped eating was I did a water change. It was nothing that he didn't see already. But, I did use the water from the Glacier machines. I used the TDS meter on it and it was better then my tap water. I was using the water from those parking lot windmills before that. I just don't get it.
His mouth is not red anymore. But, how long can he go without food? He was always really thick. Now, I can see on the bottom is getting thin. The only other thing I could do is to try and get him out of the tank, which won't be easy since there are plenty of hiding spots, and put him in my 10 gallon which has been running for several months.
It is almost like he doesn't want to eat. He will go up to the food and not suck it in and then he goes and hides. He comes back out and swims around. Not like he used to but he doesn't hide all day. Just when the food goes in.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
I will try and get a pic of him.
He doesn't swim around like he used to. He does stay in the corners of the tank. He will swim from side to side but just to get into a different corner. His breathing is the same. I used to see him picking at the glass for the algae and he doesn't do that any longer.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Thank-you. I almost feel like taking him out and holding him and shoving small bits of Nuri down his throat with a syringe! His mouth is so big.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Well he has a new symptom. His anus area is pinkish. Looks like it is inflamed. I wonder if that bristle worm he munched on last month is trying to come out. See:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/292013/can-a-fish-get-lonely
That is really going to stink if that is why he isn't eating is because of that bristleworm. I suppose if he can't poop then he can't eat. I just wonder if I could help him out. It will be 3 weeks this Sunday that he hasn't been right. He only ate 2 bits of food. I went and got live brine yesterday and still nothing. I suppose he must be in pain or discomfort. I just want to take him out and use the hemostats on him and pull it out. But, I am not sure if that is the worm I see or that it is his insides which are inflame. My fish has Hemorrhoids!!
I am going to call the LFS and see what they say. Maybe they will want to see him.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
His anus is not puffy like it was last night. It now has this red line. Could it be that he did pass the worm out? I will find out if he decides to eat tonight.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
The worm could have been a factor. I have gotten stuck by them before. Lots of little needles stick to your hand and it does hurt a little. Let us know if he does better after this.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Do you have a cycled QT. I'm thinking he problem is a bacterial infection. However, you can only treat with antibiotics in a well cycled quarantine.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Originally Posted by Beth
Do you have a cycled QT. I'm thinking he problem is a bacterial infection. However, you can only treat with antibiotics in a well cycled quarantine.
I do have a 10 gallon cycled. I wish I would have set up my 20 gallon instead. I bought the external filter for the 10. Shoulda Woulda Coulda
What type of antibiotics do you think he needs?
I just looked at him again and I can see red on his pectoral fins the part that would touch where his anus is. It still is red in that area but it isn't swollen like it was.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Thanks! I wish I could find out what antibiotics I could give him. But, Beth hasn't come back to say which one. I need to catch him and put him in the 10 gallon to treat him. I hope he will be alright in there. He doesn't swim much now. Just stays in one of the corners. So hopefully being in the 10 won't be to hard on him. I figured out how I can catch him with netting stuck in the caves.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
How big is this fish? If he is only a couple of inches, you can use the 10 gal. Do not net him. Or at least try not to. Instead, try to corral the fish and get him into a water filled ziplock. You can do this with net as long as the fish is not removed from water during e netting process. Sterilize the net first with peroxide, then rinse it a lot with hot water.
If you use the netting you mentioned in PM to barrier hide spots, you might have more luck trying to catch this fish.
You'll need to treat using Maracyn Two for SW fish. The first day, use a double dose. Just before each re-dose, do a small water change and vacuum up any uneaten debris. I wouldn't even attempt to feed for the first 24 hours after the transfer. Try to target feed after that using a turkey baster. You may want to try some home made food recipe, such as the one I have posted in the FAQ Thread. Use fresh garlic with feedings (also info in the FAQ Thread) because it has natural antibiotic qualities.
Water circulation throughout the QT is extremely important, so if you are low on circulation, add a small powerhead to the QT. Filters can not have carbon in the QT. Make sure the fish has lots of hide spots. Keep lights off most of the time because UV from the lights diminish the efficiency of antibiotics. However, use room lighting so the fish is not kept in the dark. Turn QT lights an hour before feeding. Feed first, then do the daily small water change. After that, wait an hour, then turn off the lights. Feed at least twice a day (if the fish starts eating). Each time, turn on light 1 hour before feeding.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Originally Posted by Beth
How big is this fish? If he is only a couple of inches, you can use the 10 gal. Do not net him. Or at least try not to. Instead, try to corral the fish and get him into a water filled ziplock. You can do this with net as long as the fish is not removed from water during e netting process. Sterilize the net first with peroxide, then rinse it a lot with hot water.
If you use the netting you mentioned in PM to barrier hide spots, you might have more luck trying to catch this fish.
You'll need to treat using Maracyn Two for SW fish. The first day, use a double dose. Just before each re-dose, do a small water change and vacuum up any uneaten debris. I wouldn't even attempt to feed for the first 24 hours after the transfer. Try to target feed after that using a turkey baster. You may want to try some home made food recipe, such as the one I have posted in the FAQ Thread. Use fresh garlic with feedings (also info in the FAQ Thread) because it has natural antibiotic qualities.
Water circulation throughout the QT is extremely important, so if you are low on circulation, add a small powerhead to the QT. Filters can not have carbon in the QT. Make sure the fish has lots of hide spots. Keep lights off most of the time because UV from the lights diminish the efficiency of antibiotics. However, use room lighting so the fish is not kept in the dark. Turn QT lights an hour before feeding. Feed first, then do the daily small water change. After that, wait an hour, then turn off the lights. Feed at least twice a day (if the fish starts eating). Each time, turn on light 1 hour before feeding.
He is 4 inches. So can I just use the 20 gallon then and transfer all the water. Thanks for mentioning the carbon as this filter has it in there.
What is the purpose of sterilizing the net? I do have peroxide, just wondering why.
I have have extra powerheads.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Nets are bacteria magnets. I am talking about the capture net, not the wedding net. Its good to sterilize before it goes into your tank, and especially when in use with a sick fish.
If you can transfer your water and continue to use all of your filters, yes, use the 20 gal. Be prepared with lots of change out water in case the QT cycles due to die-off from the medication. The change out water will be water from your display, and you replace water in your display with new salt water. Add a few cups of sand from your display into your QT.
 
T

tiberius

Guest
Originally Posted by Beth
Nets are bacteria magnets. I am talking about the capture net, not the wedding net. Its good to sterilize before it goes into your tank, and especially when in use with a sick fish.
If you can transfer your water and continue to use all of your filters, yes, use the 20 gal. Be prepared with lots of change out water in case the QT cycles due to die-off from the medication. The change out water will be water from your display, and you replace water in your display with new salt water. Add a few cups of sand from your display into your QT.
Ok will do! Thanks a lot for the help.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Hopefully, he'll get better, though he is in prettty rough shape. Good luck.
 
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