yellow tangs

[jay0705]

I don't disagree w you mr l. However most resources even on here I've seen 70gal as the min for smaller tangs. Kole,yellow,ECT. Most 70-75gals are 4ft. So even people that do the rt research can get mislead. Iam a believer in bigger is better,and in sw easier. Just my.02 tho

 

[mr llimpid]

You can try a 75 the foot print is the same as a 90 just shorter. The key to tangs is give them room to swim, I have found giving them a figure 8 swimming area instead of back forth in the front they are happier. This works well with more than 1 tang in a tank, this way they don’t go head to head while swimming back and fourth.

 

[jay0705]

Hmm interesting idea. I may try that.

 

[catc]

Thanks for the information!

 

[beaslbob]

I lost my first yellow tang due to ich and my second on had all the symptoms.

I then introduced macro algaes (Gracilaria) and in days the spots went away and the tang lived for 5 years in that tank and trippled is size.

I later cramed in an egg crate 3" in from the of the back glass and added 2 2 tube 4' shoplights behind the tank pointing forward. The macros thrive in the area between the galss and the egg crate and they yellow tang was constantly graizing of the macros the poked through.

I also fed flake food and cylopeeze.

tank was 55g

So I recommend live macro algaes for a yellow tang. In an in tank refugium. If that is not possible culture it in another tank even just a storage container. then add it to the display every couple of days or so.


my .02

 

[catc]

That's fascinating. Any idea what specific levels the macro affected, to cause such a difference?

 

[beaslbob]

Quote:
Originally Posted by CatC http:///t/396488/yellow-tangs/20#post_3533298
That's fascinating. Any idea what specific levels the macro affected, to cause such a difference?
Several things.

1) they consume ammonia and nitrates and in that order. If ammonia is present and not being reduced by bacteria they consume ammonia. if not they consume the resulting nitrates.

2) They consume phosphates.

3) they consume carbon dioxide and return oxygen. This will be reflected in higher just before lights out pH. The tank becomes a net sink of carbon dioxide and source of oxygen each 24 hour period.

4) caulpera profilera is reported to increase the fishs' immune system.

5) they provide food as fish like tangs that eat the macros.

6) with a refugium to protect the macros, pods will also expand providing more food for the fish.

7) macros also "filter out" toxins like heavy metals as they suck in nutrients.

So over all they recycle fish wastes into fish food and by harvesting the macros you can export toxins as well.

And should something go bump in the night and ammonia bump up, the macros will "switch" to consuming the ammonia directly preventing dangerous spikes and cycles. So the system is much more stable of forgiving of my operating errors.


If that all seems to be magical and snake oil look at how repected live rock is considered. Especially rock covered in algae like corraline. IMHO it is the algae that creates that effect.

The difference is you are using free to $5 worth of macros instead of curred live rock costing many dollars per pound.

So in my systems I just use common cheap rocks for decorations, have an inexpensive (in tank) refugium, just replace the water the evapoarted with tap water and let the system take care of itself in a balanced eco system.

My old 55g for instance I used 3 50g bags of salt mix in 9 years.

But that's just me and my .02